What is a good way to "hold" part for painting, et
Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators
What is a good way to "hold" part for painting, et
A few years ago, I lost my right hand in a car accident. I just recently decided to get back into scale modeling, however, my biggest obstacle is holding the pieces while I paint them. I would appreciate any suggestions about setups/equipment any of you might use to hold the parts while you paint them.
-
- Posts: 3204
- Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2005 7:37 pm
- Location: Fremont, CA (near Milpitas north of Golfland USA)
- Contact:
Ever heard of Helping Hands ?
http://www.hobbytool.com/helpinghandswm ... glass.aspx
Not sure if this'd work for you since you'd need a way to insert the part while holding the alligator clip open. Is there someone around who could assist you for that first step in the process ?
http://www.hobbytool.com/helpinghandswm ... glass.aspx
Not sure if this'd work for you since you'd need a way to insert the part while holding the alligator clip open. Is there someone around who could assist you for that first step in the process ?
"Well--we'll be safe for now--thank goodness we're in a bowling alley--"
-
- Posts: 3204
- Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2005 7:37 pm
- Location: Fremont, CA (near Milpitas north of Golfland USA)
- Contact:
Another trick if you are working with a rounded piece that the clips won't grip easily grip or if your worried about the clip marring the part is to apply 2 sided foam tape to a stir stick or tongue depressor. Cut the tape to the width of the stick, peel off one side, stick it to the end of the stick, then peel off the remaining side. You can stiick your model part to the tape and clip the other end of the stick into the alligator clip on your stand. I've used this trick on small, hard to hold parts and it works great !
"Well--we'll be safe for now--thank goodness we're in a bowling alley--"
- Pat Amaral
- Posts: 3730
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 2:44 pm
- Location: Ok, I'm here. You can start now
There are a number of items on this page in the SSM store that should help.
Another suggestion is to use Blu Tack. You can get the stuff at Walgreens and the like. Stuck a little wad of Blu Tack on the end of a wooden dowel or a piece of sprue, then stick the sprue into a piece of foam like described before. If you have access to and can use a drill in you condition ( ask somebody to do it for you), punch several sprue or dowel-sized holes into a piece of wood to hold a bunch of the Blu Tack rigs at the same time. The nice thing about the Blu Tack is that it won't mar the finish of your parts like the little clips might.
Another suggestion is to use Blu Tack. You can get the stuff at Walgreens and the like. Stuck a little wad of Blu Tack on the end of a wooden dowel or a piece of sprue, then stick the sprue into a piece of foam like described before. If you have access to and can use a drill in you condition ( ask somebody to do it for you), punch several sprue or dowel-sized holes into a piece of wood to hold a bunch of the Blu Tack rigs at the same time. The nice thing about the Blu Tack is that it won't mar the finish of your parts like the little clips might.
Pat A.
=============================
50% Nerd, 50% Geek, 100% Cool
=============================
50% Nerd, 50% Geek, 100% Cool
The money answer is Painting Clip #2 or the Tamiya stand, I have both and they work great.
The cheap way is blue tack and chopsticks. Drill some holes into a block of wood to hold the chopsticks and use the blue tack to hold the part to the stick.
The cheap way is blue tack and chopsticks. Drill some holes into a block of wood to hold the chopsticks and use the blue tack to hold the part to the stick.
Abolish Alliteration
Hi,
Loosing a hand must be tough. Hopefully you can get back into modeling.
I think you might be able to modify techniques for holding parts you've used before.
You've probably stuck small flat parts onto an index card or cardboard with a loop of masking tape or Blutac. Now you can tape the card down or stick the parts to something heavy enough not to move.
Many figure painters drill a hole up the foot and leg of a model and glue a wire in the hole then hold the wire in a vise. You can use this for some parts.
For larger parts, sub assemblies and nearly completed models, I usually build stands from soda straws, bamboo skewers or wire and attach the parts with tape or sponges. If you build your stands sturdier than most of mine, you could keep them from moving with a vacuvise or even a big heavy pair of locking pliers.
Sometimes it might be easier to make a simpler stand and paint the model one section at a time instead of all at once. For example you put the model on the stand, paint the top half let it dry then turn the model over on the stand and paint the bottom half.
I vaguely remember ads for a model-painting turntable in a model car magazine. You might look into one of these or a turntable from a home supply store. But, you probably want a way to lock the turntable.
Small boards are another possibility. Mount a vise on one of them and drill holes for stands in the others when ever necessary. If they slide around too much you could put some rubber on the bottom.
HTH
Mike
Loosing a hand must be tough. Hopefully you can get back into modeling.
I think you might be able to modify techniques for holding parts you've used before.
You've probably stuck small flat parts onto an index card or cardboard with a loop of masking tape or Blutac. Now you can tape the card down or stick the parts to something heavy enough not to move.
Many figure painters drill a hole up the foot and leg of a model and glue a wire in the hole then hold the wire in a vise. You can use this for some parts.
For larger parts, sub assemblies and nearly completed models, I usually build stands from soda straws, bamboo skewers or wire and attach the parts with tape or sponges. If you build your stands sturdier than most of mine, you could keep them from moving with a vacuvise or even a big heavy pair of locking pliers.
Sometimes it might be easier to make a simpler stand and paint the model one section at a time instead of all at once. For example you put the model on the stand, paint the top half let it dry then turn the model over on the stand and paint the bottom half.
I vaguely remember ads for a model-painting turntable in a model car magazine. You might look into one of these or a turntable from a home supply store. But, you probably want a way to lock the turntable.
Small boards are another possibility. Mount a vise on one of them and drill holes for stands in the others when ever necessary. If they slide around too much you could put some rubber on the bottom.
HTH
Mike
- Lt. Z0mBe
- Posts: 7311
- Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 1:46 pm
- Location: Balltown Kentucky, by God!
- Contact:
I rework clothespins into clamps. I'd have to show you. With one hand, you should be able to clamp them into a vise to allow you to manipulate them for this process.
Another way I hold parts I used recently while recovering from surgery is liquid latex mold builder. I use the stuff anyway for masking:
http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discount- ... uilder.htm
I get a smaller container (16 ounce I think) at Wal-Mart for around $10. It's lasted for three years and is only a quarter used. Dab a little on, stick the piece to cardboard or a popsicle stick and give it five minutes to dry. Peel it off with no residue. Occasionally, if you paint it over acrylics, it can craze them a bit. Plan ahead for that when masking with it.
Surgical hemostats work great too. Get them at www.micromark.com. They're having a HUGE sale through September something.
I hope this helps.
Kenny
Another way I hold parts I used recently while recovering from surgery is liquid latex mold builder. I use the stuff anyway for masking:
http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discount- ... uilder.htm
I get a smaller container (16 ounce I think) at Wal-Mart for around $10. It's lasted for three years and is only a quarter used. Dab a little on, stick the piece to cardboard or a popsicle stick and give it five minutes to dry. Peel it off with no residue. Occasionally, if you paint it over acrylics, it can craze them a bit. Plan ahead for that when masking with it.
Surgical hemostats work great too. Get them at www.micromark.com. They're having a HUGE sale through September something.
I hope this helps.
Kenny
Thanks everyone for the great ideas! I had seen implemeents sort of like the "helping hands" but I was unsure if the aligator clips might scratch the plastic. Anyone have that problem? Also, with the Blu tak, does it leave any residue or stain the plastic? I used something similar for hanging posters, but it left a greasy stain on the paper.
Just make sure it's the real Blu-Tack. Leaves no residue, very sticky. There's white poster putty which isn't tacky enough and there's a yellow stuff that is quite tacky but leaves a stain.
Abolish Alliteration
-
- Posts: 1589
- Joined: Mon Sep 02, 2002 4:45 am
- Location: Phoenix
Those SSM Store "Painting Clips" look pretty neat. I may get some of those.
It really depends on the kind of parts you're painting. When spray painting I sometimes just use regular masking tape (folded under itself, sticky side up of course) to hold a bunch of parts in place. It usually doesn't leave any residue if you don't leave the parts on it too long. Blue masking tape leaves even less residue but doesn't stick quite as well.
All of us here really admire your determination and drive. You inspire us to get off our butts and do some work.
It really depends on the kind of parts you're painting. When spray painting I sometimes just use regular masking tape (folded under itself, sticky side up of course) to hold a bunch of parts in place. It usually doesn't leave any residue if you don't leave the parts on it too long. Blue masking tape leaves even less residue but doesn't stick quite as well.
All of us here really admire your determination and drive. You inspire us to get off our butts and do some work.
Did I just see a Ford fly by?
- TER-OR
- Site Admin
- Posts: 10531
- Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2002 7:05 pm
- Location: Conjugate imprecision of time negates absolute determination of location.
- Contact:
You can also find hemostats at flea markets for cheap.
Spring tweezers are a great tool, too, for holding small items. Pinch them, they open. Release, they close - and not as hard as a hemostat.
Another tip is to put holes in your model in places you won't see them. Partially-completed subjects are best. Then you can use wire or clothes hangers stuck into a wood block to hold it in a fixed position. This is a good trick to keep your fingers off the model while airbrushing, too.
Make or buy an airbrush holder, too, you'll need it trying to work one-handed with it.
Please keep in touch, I'm sure we're all quite interested to hear how you're managing. Welcome back to the hobby!
Spring tweezers are a great tool, too, for holding small items. Pinch them, they open. Release, they close - and not as hard as a hemostat.
Another tip is to put holes in your model in places you won't see them. Partially-completed subjects are best. Then you can use wire or clothes hangers stuck into a wood block to hold it in a fixed position. This is a good trick to keep your fingers off the model while airbrushing, too.
Make or buy an airbrush holder, too, you'll need it trying to work one-handed with it.
Please keep in touch, I'm sure we're all quite interested to hear how you're managing. Welcome back to the hobby!
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
I would like to se a pair of human sized terminator looking hands that are quite flat and rest on the inside of your hand on stalks. You would wear them. When the command "freeze" is given--the hands can still hold and apply pressure to two large pieces, as your hands are released to do more work.
it'd be quite an expensive waldo.
it'd be quite an expensive waldo.
I was at Target yesterday, and in their back-to-school section, I found very nice little paint stands. They would be perfect for holding small pieces for painting.
They are little plastic cubes, about 1 inch on a side, with a piece of stiff braided wire coming out of one face and extending maybe 3 inches, ending in an alligator clip.
They are called "Tys Clip Holders," and come 4/pack, in a blister pack on a white cardboard backing, maybe 7x8 inches in size. I paid $3 or $4 for my set of 4 clip holders.
Jeff
They are little plastic cubes, about 1 inch on a side, with a piece of stiff braided wire coming out of one face and extending maybe 3 inches, ending in an alligator clip.
They are called "Tys Clip Holders," and come 4/pack, in a blister pack on a white cardboard backing, maybe 7x8 inches in size. I paid $3 or $4 for my set of 4 clip holders.
Jeff
-
- Posts: 3204
- Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2005 7:37 pm
- Location: Fremont, CA (near Milpitas north of Golfland USA)
- Contact:
I want some of those !jgoldader wrote:I was at Target yesterday, and in their back-to-school section, I found very nice little paint stands. They would be perfect for holding small pieces for painting.
They are little plastic cubes, about 1 inch on a side, with a piece of stiff braided wire coming out of one face and extending maybe 3 inches, ending in an alligator clip.
They are called "Tys Clip Holders," and come 4/pack, in a blister pack on a white cardboard backing, maybe 7x8 inches in size. I paid $3 or $4 for my set of 4 clip holders.
Jeff
"Well--we'll be safe for now--thank goodness we're in a bowling alley--"