putty & sanding question

Digger1 · Post by **Digger1** » Fri Jun 01, 2007 10:40 pm

when I apply putty to a seam and let it dry, should I take all of the putty off save of course the putty in the seam or leave a thin layer on around the seam?

Thomas E. Johnson · Post by **Thomas E. Johnson** » Fri Jun 01, 2007 11:24 pm

Leave a little bit around and on top of the seam, because most putty's shrink as they cure.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 12:29 am

I'm a glutton for punishment so I tend to leave more putty on than you probably should (couple mm worth) but then again I rarely have to re-putty an area.

It also depends on what putty. Things like the Soylent Green (whups, Squadron Green) or Mr. Dissolved Putty needs to be applied in thin layers and built up. Aves, on the other hand, can be gloriously glopped on and left to harden.

But yes, leave a bit on top and sand to shape.

bluesman · Post by **bluesman** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 12:23 pm

Mike

I do as Robb does,,,I tend to leave some extra material in the seam or joint and sand away excess.

Digger1 · Post by **Digger1** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 2:01 pm

yup. I've been using bondo red oxide. nice stuff but it tends to shrink a molecule or two in the seam when it's dry.

bluesman · Post by **bluesman** » Sat Jun 09, 2007 10:10 pm

What must we do, O brother Mike to convert you to the blessed church of Aves?

"And thou went forth and dipped into the Aves and spread thee verily onto the seam...."

Stu Pidasso · Post by **Stu Pidasso** » Sun Jun 10, 2007 2:00 am

Well, I use the old Squadron White and Nail polish remover on a Q-tip trick. I'm impatient, and there's no sanding involved.

Digger1 · Post by **Digger1** » Sun Jun 10, 2007 9:01 am

bluesman wrote:What must we do, O brother Mike to convert you to the blessed church of Aves?

"And thou went forth and dipped into the Aves and spread thee verily onto the seam...."

it's difficult to work with. It gets all sticky and hardens like a rock so it makes it hard to sand in places where I didn't mean to get the putty (where masking tape isn't an option).

Yeah, it's good for a straight, flat seam but curves and complex angles and whatnot, it's a pain to work with.

Could just be my skill level though. Just need practice yadda, yadda.

irishtrek · Post by **irishtrek** » Sun Jun 10, 2007 11:51 am

I keep making the mistake of sanding away too much putty and then have to re- apply the putty all over again! You should also do what I do and that is when you're finnished sanding brush on just enough paint over the spot that you puttied and look for small "pot" holes, that's how I know if I need to re-putty.

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Sun Jun 17, 2007 9:10 pm

Digger1 wrote:
bluesman wrote:What must we do, O brother Mike to convert you to the blessed church of Aves?

"And thou went forth and dipped into the Aves and spread thee verily onto the seam...."
it's difficult to work with. It gets all sticky and hardens like a rock so it makes it hard to sand in places where I didn't mean to get the putty (where masking tape isn't an option).

Yeah, it's good for a straight, flat seam but curves and complex angles and whatnot, it's a pain to work with.

Could just be my skill level though. Just need practice yadda, yadda.

HAve considered the following:

Thinning the putty with alcohol (to Bondo consistency) and brushing it into tight areas?

Or, applying it unthinned via a putty spatula to said tight areas?

I have found there is no place I can reach with Bondo I cannot reach with the Blessed Aves. Also, you'll have no shrinkage.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

Post by **TER-OR** » Sun Jun 17, 2007 9:23 pm

Just imagine it, Jimi.

NO SHRINKAGE!

But you must learn patience, grAsshopper.

ROM · Post by **ROM** » Thu Jun 21, 2007 8:18 pm

TER-OR wrote:Just imagine it, Jimi.

NO SHRINKAGE!

But you must learn patience, grAsshopper.

Just remember not to use cold water.

Stu Pidasso · Post by **Stu Pidasso** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 10:35 pm

I WAS IN THE POOL!

Ti Raven · Post by **Ti Raven** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 10:46 pm

Ter-or, I believe that you have Jimi's attention. Weather or not you want it .....

Ti Raven

bluesman · Post by **bluesman** » Fri Jul 13, 2007 2:49 pm

Brother Mike, let us enlighten you.

Use alcohol to smooth the aves.

You can get it into curvy areas. If you smooth it yea verily, you may not need to sand.

Rather than glop alot of aves on...put little bits on at a time, smooth and add more.

Airbrushes take time to learn too. With time and paitience you will become a Jedi master of the aves.

Ti Raven · Post by **Ti Raven** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 12:39 am

Yet another verse from the Holy Book of Aves!

irishtrek · Post by **irishtrek** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 2:55 pm

I don't know how many times I've puutied and then sanded away too much of the dried putty only to have to do it all over again.
the best way too tell if you've sanded away too much putty is to brush paint the area whith some bottled paint that is not the same color as the model or the putty you're using. If there are no "pot holes" or cracks then you've done it right.

Stubbs · Post by **Stubbs** » Thu Jul 19, 2007 1:39 pm

I always use automotive Red Glazing Putty. It's cheap as heck compared to the hobby shop brand, and usually needs just one application. Two if you're doing a big gap. Dries quick and smells great too.

I wind up leaving a very gentle "step" between layers. If you sand it down to the point where you see plastic-joint-plastic, you'll see the seam. If you sand it to a grade, you'll see an ever-so-slight hump, and that's looking close under the right light.

BERT aka MODEL MAKER · Mon Oct 29, 2007 11:39 pm

How is the testors contour putty ? I have never used it and it's all my hobbyshop had in stock this week ?

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 9:22 pm

BERT aka MODEL MAKER wrote:How is the testors contour putty ? I have never used it and it's all my hobbyshop had in stock this week ?

If and I say "IF" you use glazing type putties, it sucks. It has a larger grain, and as such, is harder to feather the edge. Get thee to Autozone and get a toothpaste-tube (NOT the two-part stuff) of the Automobile glazing putty. It comes in a 16-ounce tube.

But, the best choice, is Aves, brother.

Kenny

BERT aka MODEL MAKER · Tue Oct 30, 2007 9:27 pm

Thanks kenny, i got the testors stuff to close some tiny seams along the top of the Polar Lights seaview. But want to get the good stuff for my supply box. I have to go into Reno to go to my other hobbyshop.

mech · Post by **mech** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 7:05 am

I WAS a testors only user. This, until converted to the Church of Aves.
I've used it on curves. I've made curves, hell, I made an entire small ship from Aves! (I broke it, but that's not the point.)

I don't use alcohol though, I use plain old water and a small paint brush to smooooooth it into the areas I need it. The wetter it gets, the better it seems to work. The Aves that it.

Get thee to the store and purchase thine own supply of the Blessed Aves.
Thou shalt not regret it.

edit to add: I usually leave a smidgen of overlap on the gaps or bubbles or what ever defect, sanding in steps until smooth. The only trouble I had with Aves in the begining, was clogged sand paper. This becuase I didn't take care to mix it in equal parts, or thoroughly. You only make that mistake once. (or three times, if you're me)

TREKKRIFFIC · Post by **TREKKRIFFIC** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 11:14 am

I keep hearing how great it is so I'm going to pop my Aves cherry on my next order to the SSM store !

BERT aka MODEL MAKER · Wed Oct 31, 2007 3:40 pm

Me too POP

BERT aka MODEL MAKER · Mon Dec 03, 2007 5:04 pm

SO, testors is not the best stuff then. What quirks does this testors contour putty have and what is the best way to deal with those quirks ? Nail polish remover ?

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Mon Dec 03, 2007 10:43 pm

BERT aka MODEL MAKER wrote:SO, testors is not the best stuff then. What quirks does this testors contour putty have and what is the best way to deal with those quirks ? Nail polish remover ?

Well, it's been a while since I messed with Testor's, but what I remember was it's grain is coarser than Bondo in the tube. It is also "less-lacquery," meaning it is not able to etch the plastic as easy and take hold.

What does this mean to you?

Use Aves.

Just kidding.

Seriously, though, here's what I would recommend. As with Bondo, absolutely NO use of the putty for structural stuff.

Secondly, it requires finer sanding. You'll have to hit it with finer grades of paper than you could get away with on tube Bondo. Also, wet sand, wet sand, wet sand. This will clear the paper of coarser stuff that breaks off.

Finally, varnish the puttied area with CA glue after it dries. See the "Scribing My Way" thread for specifics. Basically, apply glue to putty, smear with finger, and sand AS SOON AS DRY. Don't stop moving your finger around the glue. Otherwise, it will bond with the putty, pulling it up.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

BERT aka MODEL MAKER · Tue Dec 04, 2007 11:19 am

thanks for the tips, what i will be filling is the very small seam on the PL seaview tail fins against the subs sides

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 11:24 am

So Kenny, how do you feel about wet sanding?

Treadhead · Post by **Treadhead** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 3:39 pm

If you opt for Squadron Green Putty, apply it in layers and don't sand until it has completely cured (I'd wait a day or two). Impatience has usually bitten me and I sand as soon as it becomes hard, only to realize that the shrinkage has left a slight depression in the seam.

I think that Kenny has probably converted me to the Church of the Blessed Aves. I'm going to order me some.

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 11:55 pm

Kylwell wrote:So Kenny, how do you feel about wet sanding?

I love wet sanding. I bless my water for wet sanding according to the incantations from the Book of Aves, of course:

"Aves, take this water, and lo let it make this build whole as it cleanses away the iniquities of the seam and aesthetic blackness. May the paper and file be cooled, and the substrate be smoothed of the leperous spots of roughness. Oh, and may the Bondites be stricken with sex-mad baboons."

~ Tamiyas Letters to the Hasegawans 23:6

Kenny