Aves Sculpt cure time? (new problem)
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Aves Sculpt cure time? (new problem)
It's been about three hours now and it's still rubbery. I mixed for about a minute in my fingers two pieces of each which are about the side of a dime (flattened out).
It's rainy/overcast here today. Could that have something to do with it?
It's rainy/overcast here today. Could that have something to do with it?
Last edited by Digger1 on Fri Oct 20, 2006 1:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
anyone?
'cause I'm starting to feel it's not what it's cracked up to be. If I can't get replies to what I might have done wrong or if it doesn't cure by tomorrow evening (time to get replys), I'll be returning it and going with bondo.
I mean everyone here seems to rave about it but it's still rubbery. I know I mixed equal portions of the A&B. Do I need a slight amount of one or the other?
Again, does the humidity play a factor in cure time?
'cause I'm starting to feel it's not what it's cracked up to be. If I can't get replies to what I might have done wrong or if it doesn't cure by tomorrow evening (time to get replys), I'll be returning it and going with bondo.
I mean everyone here seems to rave about it but it's still rubbery. I know I mixed equal portions of the A&B. Do I need a slight amount of one or the other?
Again, does the humidity play a factor in cure time?
Also, you need to mix it completely. I think they suggest two minutes. Kneed it, blend it, smoosh it, squish it, repeat.
If it doesn't set up for you, scrape it off and mix up another small batch really, really good this time and I'll bet you see the miracle that is AVES!
Don't write it off just yet.
Dennis
If it doesn't set up for you, scrape it off and mix up another small batch really, really good this time and I'll bet you see the miracle that is AVES!
Don't write it off just yet.
Dennis
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I've found that if you don't get a good 50/50 mix, it won't cure completely. I've never checked it in less time then the next day.
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Personally, for seam filling, I prefer Squadron Green putty. The solvent makes the green putty bind much better and it also cures rock hard.
Here's an example of using both together, from my WILD WOOZLE fighter
http://home.comcast.net/~thewoozle/models/f309_05.jpg
Here's an example of using both together, from my WILD WOOZLE fighter
http://home.comcast.net/~thewoozle/models/f309_05.jpg
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Ha Hakylwell wrote:Oh great, another thing that gets blamed on me.
I promise I will not blame you if I have any problems with AVES.
I will follow the directions.
Alot of things can affect your results with a product impatience, humidity, room temperature, oily hands. Me thinks the fist one is a common problem. And not reading the directions.
I have read more good things about it than bad.
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No, no Aves is one of the best fillers and when mixecd porperly it has a great deal of adhesive properties. I primarily use Aves as a filler. However, I do still use Bondo glazing putty (similar to the squadren green but a batter product IMHO) to do spot filling. I think you'll find that most of the guys that use Aves as a filler also use a spot filler as well.Babaganoosh wrote:Great. Y'all raved about Aves and now you're suggesting the stuff I was already using!
Make up my mind already!
Just my 2 cents,
Mark
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Babaganosh,
If it's flaking on you, it's one of two things. Either it's not mixed properly or it's not mixed in correct proportions.
Here's what I do. I have tubs "A" and "B." I have two cheap butter knives with plastic handles. Each is marked for its respective tub. THEY NEVER CROSS.
Long story short, I've experienced what you're decribing. When mixed incorrectly, or in the wrong proportions, you'll have those issues. Also, just like with other fillers, it's best to wet sand the stuff.
These words give me comfort:
"...This day, I say unto thee. With Aves, there is symmetry and balance. The branch has the root, the night has the dark, man has wife, sex-mad babboon has the wolf, sheep have the shepherd, and the A, my brothers, the A has equal measures of the B."
~ Mixtures 23:12
Kenny
If it's flaking on you, it's one of two things. Either it's not mixed properly or it's not mixed in correct proportions.
Here's what I do. I have tubs "A" and "B." I have two cheap butter knives with plastic handles. Each is marked for its respective tub. THEY NEVER CROSS.
I use each knife to carefully dip out little dollips of putty from the respective tubs onto the end of each knife. This helps me keep them of uniform size. I'll even grab them, separately, and roll them into little balls if I am having trouble.Egon wrote:Don't cross the streams.
Long story short, I've experienced what you're decribing. When mixed incorrectly, or in the wrong proportions, you'll have those issues. Also, just like with other fillers, it's best to wet sand the stuff.
These words give me comfort:
"...This day, I say unto thee. With Aves, there is symmetry and balance. The branch has the root, the night has the dark, man has wife, sex-mad babboon has the wolf, sheep have the shepherd, and the A, my brothers, the A has equal measures of the B."
~ Mixtures 23:12
Kenny
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It is very sticky, I try to mix wearing latex glvoes but it tears off the finger tips one by one. if you use something to prevent it from being so stick, so you can roll it thin lets say, you wet it with water to re activate it's stickness. Joe B, and Mark can flesh this concept out , its all from their WF classes.
BTW dont' forget, for secret SM santa a sample pack of aves in with a kit is a good idea. Folks will play more with something if they get 'stuck' with it as a gift.
BTW dont' forget, for secret SM santa a sample pack of aves in with a kit is a good idea. Folks will play more with something if they get 'stuck' with it as a gift.
<a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/2_wheresaneatpart.jpg" target="_Sparky">Is this plastic thingy on the counter a neat part?</a> <a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/1_casting_inprogress.jpg" target="_Sparky">Let's cast it.</a>
Ganoosh,
I have used aves to fill seems, repair small chips in resin kits, and blend disimilar shapes.
It take some getting used to, but once you got it you won;t want to use anything else.
A 50/50 mix is important. Knead, mush and do waht you gotta do for a good two mintues.
I use Isoprpryl alcohol to blend and smooth the stuff onto the model. The other thick is mix up smaller batches...you can always add but you cant take away.
I sand under a stream of running water.
We'll make a beleiver out of ya.
I have used aves to fill seems, repair small chips in resin kits, and blend disimilar shapes.
It take some getting used to, but once you got it you won;t want to use anything else.
A 50/50 mix is important. Knead, mush and do waht you gotta do for a good two mintues.
I use Isoprpryl alcohol to blend and smooth the stuff onto the model. The other thick is mix up smaller batches...you can always add but you cant take away.
I sand under a stream of running water.
We'll make a beleiver out of ya.
"The" Bluesman formerly known as The Bluesman
I use baby poweder to keep the two components from sticking to my fingers as I mix them, and to keep the mixed material from getting too sticky while I work with it.Sparky wrote:It is very sticky, I try to mix wearing latex glvoes but it tears off the finger tips one by one. if you use something to prevent it from being so stick, so you can roll it thin lets say, you wet it with water to re activate it's stickness. Joe B, and Mark can flesh this concept out , its all from their WF classes.
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Baby powder works okay for that but plain old corn starch works much better. First it is a much finer grain than babypowder and if you need to reactivate the sticky properties all you need to do is brush it with a little alcohol and a fine, soft brush. This will dissolve the corn sarch however, BP will not dissolve.
Typically for seam filling I thuroughly mix the A&B parts of the putty, then let it sit ofr 15-20 minutes. the really "gooy/sticky" properties subside after that amout of time and you should still have 30-45 min of working time.
As mentioned berfore, if you mix too much (always easier to add more than to take away) you can cut off the excess and put it on a piece of tin foil in the freezer. This will impead the curing to the point that you can thaw it and use it the next day (I do this all the time when I roll out sheets of putty for covering thing and scultping clothing).
Hope this helps,
Mark
Typically for seam filling I thuroughly mix the A&B parts of the putty, then let it sit ofr 15-20 minutes. the really "gooy/sticky" properties subside after that amout of time and you should still have 30-45 min of working time.
As mentioned berfore, if you mix too much (always easier to add more than to take away) you can cut off the excess and put it on a piece of tin foil in the freezer. This will impead the curing to the point that you can thaw it and use it the next day (I do this all the time when I roll out sheets of putty for covering thing and scultping clothing).
Hope this helps,
Mark
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And remember, you can remove a lot of material before it cures. As noted, use alcohol to thin the product. Water will make it sticky and may cause a lesser quality texture.
A bush with alcohol can feather the product, and your sculpting tools should be moistened with alcohol and frequently cleaned. Alcohol on a paper towell will remove messes. When you have it how you want, you can use a little water to firm up the texture and give a glassy surface - it doesn't have to look perfect, the water will be absorbed like the working with cement.
An alcohol-moistned curved blade can quickly replace any panel lines you covered. Detail scribing can be added at the 2-3 hour mark.
I don't remember the last time I used a solvent-based filler other than Gunze's Mr. Surfacer. Really, I can't remember.
Another potential reason for flaking is the surface might have been too glossy, remember you should scuff up the surface just a little bit to aid adhesion.
A bush with alcohol can feather the product, and your sculpting tools should be moistened with alcohol and frequently cleaned. Alcohol on a paper towell will remove messes. When you have it how you want, you can use a little water to firm up the texture and give a glassy surface - it doesn't have to look perfect, the water will be absorbed like the working with cement.
An alcohol-moistned curved blade can quickly replace any panel lines you covered. Detail scribing can be added at the 2-3 hour mark.
I don't remember the last time I used a solvent-based filler other than Gunze's Mr. Surfacer. Really, I can't remember.
Another potential reason for flaking is the surface might have been too glossy, remember you should scuff up the surface just a little bit to aid adhesion.
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Just one thing to add: Everyone's talking about different solutions to use with the Aves Sculpt, but their Safety Solvent is specifically formulated for that purpose. If you're having trouble with alcohol or whatever, try their safety solvent.
Is this plastic thingy on the counter a model part or can I throw it away?
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Has anyone read AVES F.A.Q.?
http://www.avesstudio.com/FAQ_s/faq_s.html
First question is like Babaganoosh's.
Answer - Mix for 2 min and cure for 24 hours.
http://www.avesstudio.com/FAQ_s/faq_s.html
First question is like Babaganoosh's.
Answer - Mix for 2 min and cure for 24 hours.
"Life is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." — John Wayne
See, now that why you're our den mother. Not just 'cause you're married the the big cheese but becaue you do the rational thinking for us.LindaSmile wrote:Just one thing to add: Everyone's talking about different solutions to use with the Aves Sculpt, but their Safety Solvent is specifically formulated for that purpose. If you're having trouble with alcohol or whatever, try their safety solvent.
Thanks! I'd never have thought of that!