really P.O.ed last night frisket lifted pain off
Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators
really P.O.ed last night frisket lifted pain off
Well, I am fairly new to the airbrush. I played with one before but not that much. Recently got a Enterprise C reissue and wanted to try airbrush for the paint scheme. It looked great, until the frisket peeled the paint right off. I did soak/wash the model but I did not prime it. What type of primer is the best to use for that before this thing goes flying out the window LOL. I do have it soaking in mean green to completely remove the old stuff. Thanks for your time.
Tamiya Gray Surface Primer.
Amazing stuff and more available now after a severe drought due to container re-labeling.
If you want that same primer in a larger quantity...the automotive stores carry a brand that is the exact same thing...but the name escapes me at the moment.
I would stay clear of the frisket...it is too tacky and will lift the paint off...possbily even with a primer. Plus it is a little too thick to bend around curves easily.
I use Tamiya masking tape exclusively...the stuff is unmatched by anything out there and was designed specifically for model use. Only downside is it's a little pricey.
Amazing stuff and more available now after a severe drought due to container re-labeling.
If you want that same primer in a larger quantity...the automotive stores carry a brand that is the exact same thing...but the name escapes me at the moment.
I would stay clear of the frisket...it is too tacky and will lift the paint off...possbily even with a primer. Plus it is a little too thick to bend around curves easily.
I use Tamiya masking tape exclusively...the stuff is unmatched by anything out there and was designed specifically for model use. Only downside is it's a little pricey.
I realize people can get hung up on brand names and that's fine. After all use what works for you. However I use rustoleum or krylon sandable automotive primer. You can pick it up everywhere in larger cans for less cost. It goes on light and dries fast. And it's pretty much the exact same stuff as the brand name "modeler" paint.
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Question: What "tack" did you guys use? There are low, medium and high tack for different applications. The low tack stuff - at least to me - has been as good to painted surfaces as Tamiya tape. Medium is only good for other stuff like display bases (ask me how I know ).geck wrote:Been there...I tried frisket years ago after seeing the "pros" use it and was just as frustrated.
Kenny
I don't remember what tack it was as it was many, many years ago. Since then...I just prefer to use tape...for me it's easier to work with.
So...I take it you had issues with the higher tack stuff as well?
NathanJ:
Mr Surfacer 500 is excellent primer. It produces a smoother finish than Tamiya's, but keep in mind there are different finishing grades, 500, 1000, and 1200, with 1200 being the finest.
BUT
Try it...see what works best for you. A lot of this stuff is personal preference. Also...definitely try Vetter's suggestion.
So...I take it you had issues with the higher tack stuff as well?
NathanJ:
Mr Surfacer 500 is excellent primer. It produces a smoother finish than Tamiya's, but keep in mind there are different finishing grades, 500, 1000, and 1200, with 1200 being the finest.
BUT
Try it...see what works best for you. A lot of this stuff is personal preference. Also...definitely try Vetter's suggestion.
I feel your pain. I had the same thing happen to me last night trying to paint the aztec on the nacelles. My fault for not priming them first. Did a light sanding around the offending area and primed and painted again. I use Testors gray primer and Tamiya masking tape. I don't blame the tape; it's pretty low tack and only pulls on areas where I didn't prime first.
For 15 francs more, I can put a can of sardines on your chest.