Any structural engineers in the house?

Got a question about techniques, materials or other aspects of physically building a model? This is the place to ask.

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ChrisQ
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Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2010 11:53 pm
Location: Baltimore, MD

Any structural engineers in the house?

Post by ChrisQ »

I started to add this to a thread I created in the Star Trek forum but I realize it really belongs here, so I apologize for starting another thread on the same subject.

I have come up with a plan to suspend my 1/350 Enterprise but I am hoping for some input from someone with any sort of practical knowledge. I will be using a 5/8in hollow pipe that will not only suspend the model but also carry the lighting wires up to the ceiling.

Instead of the pipe screwing into the top of the model and the model hanging on for dear life with all the weight bearing on that one spot (that would last 3 minutes), I intend to take a 2x4x12 block of balsa wood and carve it to fit snugly inside the upper half of the secondary hull, being mindful not to block any windows or holes needed for lighting. Since the rear of the model will not be accessible, I will not be installing the arboretum or hanger bay, so no worries there.

I will drill a 3/4" hole through the wood block (and the model of course), extend the pipe down into the model and through the wood, and then bolt it to the bottom of the wood. My intent is to distribute all the stress and weight of the model over the entire piece of wood instead of being concentrated on one spot. Will this achieve the desired affect?

If someone has got a better solution or notice any problems with my idea I would be grateful for your thoughts. Better to ask now than to be looking down at my smashed up Enterprise wondering what I could have done differently :D
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Jagdson
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Post by Jagdson »

Out of reflex I'd choose a wood other than balsa. It does have a degree of strength, but it's not as high as I would personally want with such a large model. It also tends to compress, which is not a good feature for a load-bearing item.

Pick a denser wood.
Science created airplanes and skyscrapers, but it took faith to bring them together.

Trust me. I'm a priest.
ChrisQ
Posts: 142
Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2010 11:53 pm
Location: Baltimore, MD

Post by ChrisQ »

Ok I was worried about making it too heavy, but what you say makes perfect sense. If I anchor the pole to the ceiling properly it won't matter how heavy the wood is, and at approx 8 inches long it's not going to be that heavy regardless.

Thanks.
pocketpencil
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Post by pocketpencil »

You may want to be careful about the weight of the engineering hull and nacelles torquing on the neck section under the saucer. I would recommend re-enforcing that if you plan to use this approach. Maybe some sort of support structure inside to keep it from warping.
ChrisQ
Posts: 142
Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2010 11:53 pm
Location: Baltimore, MD

Post by ChrisQ »

Yes as I am starting to carve out my piece of wood, I am envisioning another skinnier hollow rod coming out the front of it at a 45 and up through the neck, carrying wires to the saucer while also strengthening the neck. I don't see why that won't work, but if it doesn't, I will go with 2 fishing lines taking the weight of the saucer. I paint them flat black, and against the ceiling and back wall they are almost invisible.


I also have to see about rods reinforcing the nacelle pylons. If not rods, I am contemplating taking the skinniest mono-filament I can find and attaching a wire from one pylon to the other and then cranking it tight. As long as the knot never loosens the nacelles will never sag. Problem is I don't think I can make that wire disappear as well as lines coming off the saucer because of the lighting in the room. I want to avoid wires at all if I can.
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