Primer for resin

This is the place to get answers about painting, weathering and other aspects of finishing a model.

Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators

Post Reply
Stilgar
Posts: 163
Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2005 3:39 pm

Primer for resin

Post by Stilgar »

I need to find a good primer for a expensive resin kit I am getting. Does anyone have any preferred primer for resin?
I would prefer something acrylic based....but...will do whatever is right..


All help appreciated.

Stilgar
User avatar
Malcolm M
Posts: 427
Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2005 4:17 am
Location: Exeter, Devon.
Contact:

Post by Malcolm M »

Well everyone has there own preferences when it comes to primer. I usually stick to the white primer from either Lowes or Home Depot. If you're in the UK Halfords make a nice primer that I used for years without any problems.

The best thing you can do with a resin kit is to ensure all traces of the mold release have been removed. This can be accomplished with a wash in warm soapy water and a light scrub with a nail brush to make sure the last trace is gone. Give the parts a good rinse and allow to air dry. Then you shouldn't have any problems with you choice of primer.
User avatar
starmanmm
Posts: 2539
Joined: Sat Jul 13, 2002 12:59 am
Location: New Bedford, MA

Post by starmanmm »

Been building resin kits for awhile now.... I like to use automotive primer like Duplic Color Primer Filler. I usually will let it sit in warm water for 10 to 15minutes, shake it up and spray the kit.

Now if you can get friendly with an autobody shop in your area (I have done this) they usually throw away the primer they have left over from a job; but if you talk to them, you may get them to prime you kit.

They did it for me on two resin kits I had and it cost me nothing.
User avatar
Kylwell
Moderator
Posts: 29643
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 9:25 pm
Location: Lakewood, CO
Contact:

Post by Kylwell »

There is but one primer... Mr. Resin Primer. Very thin, cuts through residual mold release, just perfect.
Abolish Alliteration
User avatar
TER-OR
Site Admin
Posts: 10531
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2002 7:05 pm
Location: Conjugate imprecision of time negates absolute determination of location.
Contact:

Post by TER-OR »

I also like the Mr. Surfacer 1000. Very very nice glossy coat when it's done and if there are any flaws you'll see them.

Also, I like PolyScale's Plastic Prep as a pre-treatment. It removes residues and reduces static charge, which prevents dust from sticking. I can tell a huge difference if I neglect to use the Plastic Prep on a section of model.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.

Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
Stilgar
Posts: 163
Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2005 3:39 pm

Post by Stilgar »

I plan to use ACRYLIC paint for the kit. Dont I need to worry about the primer being acrylic as well?

I thought I had heard of some crackling after a lacquer based primer was covered by acrylic paint....

Stilgar
USSARCADIA
Posts: 1950
Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 7:29 pm

Post by USSARCADIA »

The Gunze stuff is great if you can find it. I lost my source a while ago. Someone on the boards here said Tamiya primer was the same basic stuff so I tried it. It does seem the behave about the same. And I can still find it.
Did you eat your Chocolate Frosted Sugar Bombs this morning?
kenlilly106
Posts: 1302
Joined: Sun Jan 14, 2007 12:18 am
Location: in the mountains

Post by kenlilly106 »

Stilgar wrote:I plan to use ACRYLIC paint for the kit. Dont I need to worry about the primer being acrylic as well?
I would definitely not use an acrylic primer like the one Testor's sells in the their Acryl line, you want a paint that's "hot" enough to bind to the substrate, then the top coat will attach itself to the primer.

Always apply paints in this order:
Lacquer
Enamel
Acrylic

I use Duplicolor primers also, the filler-primer is nice for kits that have pinhole problems, the white produced a nice semi-gloss finish that's a good base for light colors. Duplicolor paints are available at any decent auto parts store that sells paints. A big can costs $5 or so, you'll pay more than that for the small cans of the Gunze or Tamiya primers.

I thought I had heard of some crackling after a lacquer based primer was covered by acrylic paint....
I've read of issues with gloss Tamiya or Gunze paints being applied over a basecoat that was not fully cured out, the different shrinkage rates cause the outer surface of the gloss paint to crack. Give the primer several days to cure before applying a finish coat, when in doubt do the sniff test, if you can smell paint, then the primer is not cured out.

Ken
User avatar
Kylwell
Moderator
Posts: 29643
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 9:25 pm
Location: Lakewood, CO
Contact:

Post by Kylwell »

I spray Tamiya & Gunze acrylics straight on Mr. Surfacer/Mr. Resin Primer/Alclad all the time, no problem. The only time I've heard of an issue is with enamels on lacquer, which a coat of Future in between solved.
Abolish Alliteration
User avatar
TER-OR
Site Admin
Posts: 10531
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2002 7:05 pm
Location: Conjugate imprecision of time negates absolute determination of location.
Contact:

Post by TER-OR »

As do I, acrylics over Gunze has never been a problem. Although I have had problems with gloss paints over gloss coats like Future. I tend to use semi-gloss for most painting.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.

Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
UncleMarsellus
Posts: 17
Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2009 6:14 pm

Post by UncleMarsellus »

I bought a few resin upgrade parts for a model kit and I had never thought that I should treat painting them (or even preparing them) any differently than the rest of the styrene model. Should I use the same kind of primer and paints on both the resin and styrene?
Imaginaut
Newbie Doobie

Post by Newbie Doobie »

I use duplicolour. This is what most guys I've talked to use as well.
User avatar
Kylwell
Moderator
Posts: 29643
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 9:25 pm
Location: Lakewood, CO
Contact:

Post by Kylwell »

UncleMarsellus wrote:I bought a few resin upgrade parts for a model kit and I had never thought that I should treat painting them (or even preparing them) any differently than the rest of the styrene model. Should I use the same kind of primer and paints on both the resin and styrene?
Once you've primed you can treat them the same, one of the reasons I prime multi-media kits, it evens out the various surface adhesion.
Abolish Alliteration
Colin Droidmilker
Posts: 254
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 1:01 pm

Post by Colin Droidmilker »

Kylwell wrote:There is but one primer... Mr. Resin Primer. Very thin, cuts through residual mold release, just perfect.
Is this the one also known as Mr Resin Surfacer Primer? If so, is it gray, and also do they give you enough in the rattlecan version to cover a 1/24 X-wing? Thanks...
DaveVan
Posts: 2758
Joined: Sun Jul 26, 2009 10:53 pm
Location: usa

Post by DaveVan »

Another Dupli-color user here. I have produced resin kits in the past (automotive) and used it on all resin kits. I have used all types paint over it including Tamiya lacquer which is a lot 'hotter' than any enamel or acrylic on the market. They have a few different version...the light gray sandable is my favorite but also use the ruddy brown (red) and black.
User avatar
bluesman
Posts: 12370
Joined: Sun Jul 14, 2002 1:33 pm
Location: On tour.
Contact:

Post by bluesman »

I use Krylon grey primer or Mr surfacer.

Warming up the can in warm water is the way to go.
"The" Bluesman formerly known as The Bluesman
User avatar
Kylwell
Moderator
Posts: 29643
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 9:25 pm
Location: Lakewood, CO
Contact:

Post by Kylwell »

Colin Droidmilker wrote:
Kylwell wrote:There is but one primer... Mr. Resin Primer. Very thin, cuts through residual mold release, just perfect.
Is this the one also known as Mr Resin Surfacer Primer? If so, is it gray, and also do they give you enough in the rattlecan version to cover a 1/24 X-wing? Thanks...
Well I'm not sure how much a can would cover, but they do make it in a spray can.
Abolish Alliteration
Post Reply