Exhaust Residue/Weathering Technique

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marcus0311
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Exhaust Residue/Weathering Technique

Post by marcus0311 »

Ok I'm sure a topic like this is somewhere in this forum,but I can't find it. I'm building the revell re-reissue viper kit. I building it up into a varient of the Scarlet Viper, but a little different here and there. Since the model is built in sections, I decided to completley finich the forward half of the viper, and then start on the engines till thier completley done, then the wings so on and so forth. Anyways, I drilled out vector thrust holes in the nose(a little larger than originally intended but I don't feel like filling them in and re-drilling them out). I'm down to the detailing stage of the forward half. I have a mix of Model Master Flat Black, and rubbing alcohol as a kind of wash/weathering solution. My question is: How can I make the exhaust stains from the vector thrust holes?
THE SECRET TO VICTORY...IS THE VIOLENT PATH TO PEACE-Scorpius(Farscape,Peacekeeper Wars).
I WANT ALL GUNCAPTAINS TO FIRE TILL THEY'RE OUT OF AMMO...THEN I WANT THEM START THROWING ROCKS! (Adama,BSG finale).

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Pat Amaral
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Post by Pat Amaral »

Maybe there doesn't need to be any exhaust staining at all. I would think that, logically, you would use an inert gas for an RCS system that small. Consider the nitrogen jets used in NASA's MMU from the 80s and now the SAFER units on the ISS EVA suits for example. Of course, on a fighter type craft, the RCS would have to be much more powerful but I still don't think you would need rockets that generate residue.

If you have your heart set on staining your RCS ports, I think the pattern should be round and uniform around each hole.
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marcus0311
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Post by marcus0311 »

Well, after much hesitating I mixed a solution of non-acetone nail polish remover and Model Masters Flat Black, and proceeded to exhaust stain my vector thrust ports. They turned out a little too dark, but the shape and angle is good. I'll just chalk it up too experience cause in order to fix it, I'd have to mask off my armor paneling, etc and re-airbrush the whole front section. Nah. I've spent enough time already getting to where I'm at now. Besides, I will be recieving a lite kit anyday now, and I'm anxious to get started on my republic destroyer.
The stains don't look all that bad anyways, just a little too dark. I'm sure that after I weather, and wash they'll blend a little better.
THE SECRET TO VICTORY...IS THE VIOLENT PATH TO PEACE-Scorpius(Farscape,Peacekeeper Wars).
I WANT ALL GUNCAPTAINS TO FIRE TILL THEY'RE OUT OF AMMO...THEN I WANT THEM START THROWING ROCKS! (Adama,BSG finale).

"COME ON YOU SONS OF BITCHES!DO YOU WANT TO LIVE FOR EVER?"(GunnerySergeant Dan Daly-Battle of Belleau Wood-WWI)
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Post by Kylwell »

One word: pastels.

Go dark gray to get the general swoosh then seal and go with light gray just around the edges for that higher heat look.
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marcus0311
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Post by marcus0311 »

I went with flat black because the base color is Model Masters Dark gull Grey, and I didn't have any pastels. I just got back from walmart and I purchased a set of charcoal pencils. I read somewhere in here that someone also uses charcoal pencils to stain and weather, so i figured I'd try it.
THE SECRET TO VICTORY...IS THE VIOLENT PATH TO PEACE-Scorpius(Farscape,Peacekeeper Wars).
I WANT ALL GUNCAPTAINS TO FIRE TILL THEY'RE OUT OF AMMO...THEN I WANT THEM START THROWING ROCKS! (Adama,BSG finale).

"COME ON YOU SONS OF BITCHES!DO YOU WANT TO LIVE FOR EVER?"(GunnerySergeant Dan Daly-Battle of Belleau Wood-WWI)
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Kolschey
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Post by Kolschey »

Can't go wrong with charcoal. If you don't like what you get, it's easy to clean off.

You can also grind charcoal and dilute it with any number of liquids to make a thin wash.

As ever, the best course of action would be to test beforehand on a scrap piece painted to the basic specs of the target element, so that you can observe the effects as it dries over a day or so.


Hope this helps.
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