Photo Etch parts help

Got a question about techniques, materials or other aspects of physically building a model? This is the place to ask.

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roguepink
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Photo Etch parts help

Post by roguepink »

I have never done a kit with extensive photoetch aftermarket parts before. My first one, sadly, is NOT looking too good.

Hasegawa F-15 in 1:72, Eduard photoetch parts. The problem is the grills, they get saturated with the thin CA glue and loose all their detail. I'm not going to say much more, but I'm asking for any advice on how to get the best results with PE part sets.
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Jagdson
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Post by Jagdson »

I don't use thin CA, ever. I have had a few isolated problems with the gap-filling variety, but usually it behaves.

For photo-etched parts I put a drop of the thick stuff on a piece of plasticard and gently run the part's edge along the drop. If too big a droplet of CA clings to the part, the edge of a paper slip will wick it down to size. You will need to experiment a little to determine your preference in droplet sizes, but it's easy to determine.

If the part is particularly small you can deposit some CA onto the model with a toothpick, then emplace the part. However, I've found that the toothpick isn't needed often, and I've often assembled teeny fins of 1/8" or less.
The trick is just patience and planning.
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Post by scanam2005 »

An alternative is white glue particularly for parts that are not subject to high weight loads. Excess white glue can be removed with water on the end of a Q-tip.
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Tesral
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Re: Photo Etch parts help

Post by Tesral »

roguepink wrote:I have never done a kit with extensive photoetch aftermarket parts before. My first one, sadly, is NOT looking too good.

Hasegawa F-15 in 1:72, Eduard photoetch parts. The problem is the grills, they get saturated with the thin CA glue and loose all their detail. I'm not going to say much more, but I'm asking for any advice on how to get the best results with PE part sets.
There is a CA debonder you can use to clean up those parts and try again.

As an experiment I dropped debonder in a gap-fill and baking soda bubble, and it just melted way (it took a little time)
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starmanmm
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Post by starmanmm »

An alternative is white glue particularly for parts that are not subject to high weight loads. Excess white glue can be removed with water on the end of a Q-tip.
I like this idea.
macfrank
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Post by macfrank »

Future also works as a PE glue, especially if you need to attach a PE part to a clear part (like a canopy). White glue (or Crystal Kleer) works well.

If you can remove the PE part from the plastic without damaging it, you can soften/remove the CA with acetone.

Frank
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Jonas Calhoun
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Post by Jonas Calhoun »

I've also taken a sewing needle, cut the head of it off, so there is a little 'U' on the end--or a fork, if you prefer. Dip the U in a bit of CA, and then touch it to the part to be glued. There isn't enough on there to really run and ruin parts, but just enough to bond it...

BTW--PM me your email address, please...

Dan
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