I will be getting a Paasche airbrush eventually. I hear they're the way to go in terms of getting fine detail and an overall, broad coat out of. Probably within the next three months I'll be buying it. I just want to know what type to get. I understand, "the more expensive, the better it will be". While I don't want to spend a mint on a new airbrush, I do want something with a wide PSI setting, double-action, something that is siphon fed and comes with all the bells ans whistles.
I also need to know what to get with the airbrush. I need recommendations on compressors, regulators and other things that go along with having a healthy, handy airbrush.
I'm thinking about the Paasche AB Turbine double action, external mix, siphon feed.
Thanks for the help!
Airbrush recommendations
Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators
You'll never get model paint, or any other paint for that matter, to go through that brush. That brush is for retouching photos and you can only put ink through it. First time you try to put model paint through it you'll destroy the turbine.
Do yourself a favor and get a Badger 360. It'll do everything you want it to do, and will last a long time.
Erin
<*>
Do yourself a favor and get a Badger 360. It'll do everything you want it to do, and will last a long time.
Erin
<*>
LOL.... wow...
No. dont get that brush.
The aforementioned Badger is nice. Harbor freight used to carry the Paasche VL for $50, and that's where I got mine, but I think they sold out.
I've never used the 360 myself, but I hear lots of good things about it.
I have a Paasche VL and a Sotar 20/20, and I love them both.
No. dont get that brush.
The aforementioned Badger is nice. Harbor freight used to carry the Paasche VL for $50, and that's where I got mine, but I think they sold out.
I've never used the 360 myself, but I hear lots of good things about it.
I have a Paasche VL and a Sotar 20/20, and I love them both.
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Digger1
One thing I've noticed with my VL:
I can get very fine lines with the VL... not quite as fine as the Sotar, but pretty close... but to do so, the VL is VERY picky about having a perfectly thinned mixture, so it's often not worth it. These days, I use my VL for base-coat coverage and metalics, and my Sotar for most everything else.
I can get very fine lines with the VL... not quite as fine as the Sotar, but pretty close... but to do so, the VL is VERY picky about having a perfectly thinned mixture, so it's often not worth it. These days, I use my VL for base-coat coverage and metalics, and my Sotar for most everything else.
If you want I can tell you a whole buncha negative things about Paasche's if you want. Karim's right, very picky. The turbo is actually more of a workhorse than the VL but is way too demanding and has a tiny ink capacity. I've broken more VL's then I care to think about.Babaganoosh wrote:Thanks Erin for your recommendations. I've had a Badger 150 and it didn't do what I wanted it to do either by design or my ignorance to how it worked. I've heard a lot of positive things about the Paasche last night in a chat so I thought that might be the avenue in which to go.
Abolish Alliteration
I've got a Badger model 200NH that has served me well for years. I've also got the Badger 350 which is great for quick and dirty stuff. I used to have a double action unit but never got the hang of it. The basic ones suit me better.
Avoid the Aztek airbrush. It was a great tool when it worked, but I wound up sending it out for warranty service more than I had it in the workshop.
Avoid the Aztek airbrush. It was a great tool when it worked, but I wound up sending it out for warranty service more than I had it in the workshop.
What's more dangerous? The guy holding a gun to your head, or the guy who has the literary skill to make poison read like sugar?
<a href="http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d173/ ... hotobucket 'el Stubbserino</a>
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I use my Badger 200 single action for most work. Simple, reliable, sprays perfectly. I use my SOTAR for any detailing or preshading work. I also have one brush for acrylics ONLY (Badger 200).
My Paasche worked for a while until I dropped it. Ever since then it hasn't sprayed without spitting problems, when I could get it to spray at all. I'm not a big fan of their airbrushes.
I'll probably get an Iwata eventually, I've heard nothing but raves for them. Wanna use one first, though, they're quite expensive!
Erin
<*>
My Paasche worked for a while until I dropped it. Ever since then it hasn't sprayed without spitting problems, when I could get it to spray at all. I'm not a big fan of their airbrushes.
I'll probably get an Iwata eventually, I've heard nothing but raves for them. Wanna use one first, though, they're quite expensive!
Erin
<*>
Nah, I really didn't like it before I dropped it either. Dropping it just made me finally give up on it and go back to my trusty Badgers. I dislike the big barrel, it feels like one of those Husky pencils kindergarten kids use.
But no, I never liked it. Not enough control, a pain in the butt to get lined up when reassembling the nozzle, heavy, didn't spray consistent lines, hose ends and color cups don't fit my other airbrushes, numerous reasons I don't like them. Mark Yungblut loves them and preaches about them to me all the time, but I still don't have the desire to fix mine and give it another chance. Why should I when I have several other airbrushes that do much better work?!
To make it worse, my sister uses their external mix brush at her salon to apply artificial tanning solution, and guess who has to fix it about once a month? POS is ALWAYS broken! Cone splitting mostly, but always needing to be cleaned.
Nope, not a big Paasche fan at all, and won't be convinced otherwise!
Erin
<*>
But no, I never liked it. Not enough control, a pain in the butt to get lined up when reassembling the nozzle, heavy, didn't spray consistent lines, hose ends and color cups don't fit my other airbrushes, numerous reasons I don't like them. Mark Yungblut loves them and preaches about them to me all the time, but I still don't have the desire to fix mine and give it another chance. Why should I when I have several other airbrushes that do much better work?!
To make it worse, my sister uses their external mix brush at her salon to apply artificial tanning solution, and guess who has to fix it about once a month? POS is ALWAYS broken! Cone splitting mostly, but always needing to be cleaned.
Nope, not a big Paasche fan at all, and won't be convinced otherwise!
Erin
<*>
I'm an acryl fan, have to make it to Wonderfest one year so I can get drunk and argue the point with Erin some year. Though every move I make seems to get me farther from St. Louis. For a first really easy to use very versatile one I'd have previously said the Badger 350. Now, the Paasche H. Whole friggin set with 3 tips (fine, medium, not so medium), bunch 'o' jars (lift one in my name), braided hose, etc for $50. 50 bucks. That's chicken ≠♀§#&@(§ money. Single action external mix brushes are the bomb. Think of a highly adjustable spray can. Don't believe me, the H is the brush of choice of D. Merriman. Say what you like, the guy is an incredible model maker.
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It depends on you
Hi Guys,
Every time I read these airbrush recommendation threads I read with interest.
I think everyone has their favorite brand and yes each brand will do pretty much the same thing. Kind of like a car. Ultimately they will get you from point A to B but everyone has a preference. A Benz will get you to the same place as a Pontiac but perhaps with a bit more luxury.
The results you get come down basically to the skill you will hone with practice.
I think it comes down to which brush you first picked up and learned on.
Learn on a Badger you love Badger. Learn on a Paasche then you are a Paasche loyalist. Yada yada yada...
I learned on a Paasche H in High School drafting. My dad bought me an H for my modelling and I still use that 25 year old H for 95% of my modelling. I only have ever replaced the cone and tip and that was because I dropped it! Any brand of airbrush will not like a nose dive to the floor!
Now I have a Paasche VL, several different Badgers and Thayer and Chandlers and a couple of Azteks/Testors. My wife rips on me about my airbrush collection. I find I use my H almost always because in general it does what I want and is damn easy to use and clean.
My other brushes Have been used and I must say they are quality items and will also get the job done but since I learned on an H I go with the H.
The only airbrush I hate is that damn Aztek. Maybe the only reason I hate it is that the first time I used it the color cup lid exploded off the brush leaving me, my work area, my model and the area in general wearing a nice unevenly applied coat of gloss black
So get somthing from a quality manufacturer. Decide whether you want to start with a single action or go straight to a double. Then stick with it and practice. You will find you get better using the same brush with each and every model you do.
Cheers,
Max Bryant
Every time I read these airbrush recommendation threads I read with interest.
I think everyone has their favorite brand and yes each brand will do pretty much the same thing. Kind of like a car. Ultimately they will get you from point A to B but everyone has a preference. A Benz will get you to the same place as a Pontiac but perhaps with a bit more luxury.
The results you get come down basically to the skill you will hone with practice.
I think it comes down to which brush you first picked up and learned on.
Learn on a Badger you love Badger. Learn on a Paasche then you are a Paasche loyalist. Yada yada yada...
I learned on a Paasche H in High School drafting. My dad bought me an H for my modelling and I still use that 25 year old H for 95% of my modelling. I only have ever replaced the cone and tip and that was because I dropped it! Any brand of airbrush will not like a nose dive to the floor!
Now I have a Paasche VL, several different Badgers and Thayer and Chandlers and a couple of Azteks/Testors. My wife rips on me about my airbrush collection. I find I use my H almost always because in general it does what I want and is damn easy to use and clean.
My other brushes Have been used and I must say they are quality items and will also get the job done but since I learned on an H I go with the H.
The only airbrush I hate is that damn Aztek. Maybe the only reason I hate it is that the first time I used it the color cup lid exploded off the brush leaving me, my work area, my model and the area in general wearing a nice unevenly applied coat of gloss black
So get somthing from a quality manufacturer. Decide whether you want to start with a single action or go straight to a double. Then stick with it and practice. You will find you get better using the same brush with each and every model you do.
Cheers,
Max Bryant
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There's a whole thread with the Airbrush Survey results.
Erin and I agreed a few years ago after looking at the Badger 360. It's the 155 Anthem with a rotating head. A VERY good brush which will do 90% of everything you need - and for most modelers it will do 100%. It's the brush both of us recommend to anyone who asks. It's a double-action which both means it's more sensitive and more versatile but also means it can be a bit more work and take more coordination.
The only time I use my Sotar is for very fine work - partly because my Omni 3000 has a very wide performance range and partly because Sotar replacement parts are EXTREMELY expensive and Omni bits are very nicely priced. I have a Central Pneumatic Badger 350 knockoff for metallics.
I have no problem shooting acrylic through either brush, and have even shot Reaper Pro Paints through my Sotar (those are made for hand-brushing).
Baba, I'm glad you're going to make the move to airbrushing. now it's time to decide which you need. There are some good tools online.
A single-action is good for a lot of things, and can make some very fine lines. The Badger 200 is an internal single-action and with practice they're fine brushes. The Paashe brushes I find too big and heavy - they're very fatiguing. If you have ham-hands and need a big tool they're a good possibility. Otherwise, if your hands get fatigued easily - pick a lighter brush.
You'll also want a decent compressor - with a small reservior tank.
Erin and I agreed a few years ago after looking at the Badger 360. It's the 155 Anthem with a rotating head. A VERY good brush which will do 90% of everything you need - and for most modelers it will do 100%. It's the brush both of us recommend to anyone who asks. It's a double-action which both means it's more sensitive and more versatile but also means it can be a bit more work and take more coordination.
The only time I use my Sotar is for very fine work - partly because my Omni 3000 has a very wide performance range and partly because Sotar replacement parts are EXTREMELY expensive and Omni bits are very nicely priced. I have a Central Pneumatic Badger 350 knockoff for metallics.
I have no problem shooting acrylic through either brush, and have even shot Reaper Pro Paints through my Sotar (those are made for hand-brushing).
Baba, I'm glad you're going to make the move to airbrushing. now it's time to decide which you need. There are some good tools online.
A single-action is good for a lot of things, and can make some very fine lines. The Badger 200 is an internal single-action and with practice they're fine brushes. The Paashe brushes I find too big and heavy - they're very fatiguing. If you have ham-hands and need a big tool they're a good possibility. Otherwise, if your hands get fatigued easily - pick a lighter brush.
You'll also want a decent compressor - with a small reservior tank.
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Terry Miesle
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Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
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Interesting, I was considering the Central Pneumatics 350 copy, but since Marg decided she doesn't want to spray anything, prefering to brush paint, I'm just gonna use my Badger 350 for metallics. The involved bits are easy and cheap to replace, and now I have the Paasche, it seems to make sense.
As for the size of the Paasche, I found that my hand would cramp after a while using the 350. It's so thin, nice and light, but feels a little unsubstantial. Mind you it works great. The reason I'd recommend the Paasche over the Badger is that you can get a whole set, once you add the different paint tips and needles the Badger actually works out more expensive even though the initial cost is less.
As for the size of the Paasche, I found that my hand would cramp after a while using the 350. It's so thin, nice and light, but feels a little unsubstantial. Mind you it works great. The reason I'd recommend the Paasche over the Badger is that you can get a whole set, once you add the different paint tips and needles the Badger actually works out more expensive even though the initial cost is less.
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The 350 is a low-end brush. It is light, and plastic, and not for finesse.
You want a nice, all-metal, chrome or nickel plated airbrush. It should have some heft but still be easily controlled.
Very much like choosing a good-quality chef's knife. Some are real brutes, others light. It all depends on your preference. Not everyone can afford the uber-high-quality ceramic blades. I'll keep my Sabatier good and sharp.
You want a nice, all-metal, chrome or nickel plated airbrush. It should have some heft but still be easily controlled.
Very much like choosing a good-quality chef's knife. Some are real brutes, others light. It all depends on your preference. Not everyone can afford the uber-high-quality ceramic blades. I'll keep my Sabatier good and sharp.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati