Mr Surfacer
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Yes. I use more like 70% thinner though.Thomas E. Johnson wrote:So the 1000 stuff can be airbrushed if thined 50%/50% with Mr. Surfacer thinner?
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"In the universe, space travel may be the normal birth pangs of an otherwise dying race. A test. Some races pass, some fail."
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Our only chance of long-term survival is not to remain lurking on planet Earth, but to spread out into space.
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The Blaposphere
"In the universe, space travel may be the normal birth pangs of an otherwise dying race. A test. Some races pass, some fail."
- Robert A. Heinlein
Our only chance of long-term survival is not to remain lurking on planet Earth, but to spread out into space.
- Stephen Hawking, 2011
The Blaposphere
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Well, I was able to airbrush it thinned 50%/50% using my super high flow nozzle, and got pretty good results.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't it more bang for the buck to thin down a bottle of this stuff and airbrush it, than to buy the rattle can stuff? It seems like you get more material to use by thinning the bottle version, than you get in one of the spray cans.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't it more bang for the buck to thin down a bottle of this stuff and airbrush it, than to buy the rattle can stuff? It seems like you get more material to use by thinning the bottle version, than you get in one of the spray cans.
Thomas E. Johnson
I've found recently that if I go more than 50/50 thinner to surfacer that it goes on translucent and is a good sealer, but it isn't a very good filler. If I'm filling pin holes, etc, and want a good tooth for a coat of paint, I go 2 parts surfacer to 3 parts thinner.Blappy wrote:Yes. I use more like 70% thinner though.Thomas E. Johnson wrote:So the 1000 stuff can be airbrushed if thined 50%/50% with Mr. Surfacer thinner?
-Devin
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-Professor Farnsworth
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I just used Mr Surfacer 1200 in a rattle can to prime my first kit in about 20 years (FM Tie) and all I can say is WOW! I love this stuff. It goes on so well and lays down tight with no loss of detail.
Only complaint is the rattle can over whelmed the little spray booth I made up. Going to have to try air brushing once this rattle can is done.
My only question is, and I'm sorry if it's been covered and I missed it, how long should I wait until I start applying colour coats?
Only complaint is the rattle can over whelmed the little spray booth I made up. Going to have to try air brushing once this rattle can is done.
My only question is, and I'm sorry if it's been covered and I missed it, how long should I wait until I start applying colour coats?
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I just had my first crack at 1200 as a primer, and spiderwebbed the heck out of my model! Argh! ![Sad :(](./images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)
Out came an old toothbrush and cleaned the gunk off. Off to Mr Google for a little more information.
Thanks to this handy thread, I thinned it to 60/40 or so, upped the px to 25psi and away I went. Happy days, and thanks SSM for a cool thread.
![Sad :(](./images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)
Out came an old toothbrush and cleaned the gunk off. Off to Mr Google for a little more information.
Thanks to this handy thread, I thinned it to 60/40 or so, upped the px to 25psi and away I went. Happy days, and thanks SSM for a cool thread.
Many apologies. I can't find the thread where I asked this. I have a jar of Mr. Hobby Mr. Resin Primer Surfacer. Burgundy label with gray/white text. I've looked several times. Nowhere does it way what grade/thickness it is. I went ahead and tried using it tonight to fill some hallway sized panel lines on a 1/1400 resin starship. Will it work? Will it require several fillings? Should I have just applied the Testors red putty?
You should have used thismburkey wrote:Many apologies. I can't find the thread where I asked this. I have a jar of Mr. Hobby Mr. Resin Primer Surfacer. Burgundy label with gray/white text. I've looked several times. Nowhere does it way what grade/thickness it is. I went ahead and tried using it tonight to fill some hallway sized panel lines on a 1/1400 resin starship. Will it work? Will it require several fillings? Should I have just applied the Testors red putty?
http://www.starshipmodeler.biz/index.cf ... uct_ID=636
Apply carefully with a pointy toothpick, hit it with some accelerator and in 90 seconds you are sanding it smooth. This black stuff has a similar hardness as resins and styrene.
I no longer own any air dry putty in tubes.
BUILDING THE FUTURE!
"In the universe, space travel may be the normal birth pangs of an otherwise dying race. A test. Some races pass, some fail."
- Robert A. Heinlein
Our only chance of long-term survival is not to remain lurking on planet Earth, but to spread out into space.
- Stephen Hawking, 2011
The Blaposphere
"In the universe, space travel may be the normal birth pangs of an otherwise dying race. A test. Some races pass, some fail."
- Robert A. Heinlein
Our only chance of long-term survival is not to remain lurking on planet Earth, but to spread out into space.
- Stephen Hawking, 2011
The Blaposphere
It's about the same as the 1000. You can use it to fill but it'll take a number of applications. I usually prime with the resin primer and then fill with the 500.mburkey wrote:Many apologies. I can't find the thread where I asked this. I have a jar of Mr. Hobby Mr. Resin Primer Surfacer. Burgundy label with gray/white text. I've looked several times. Nowhere does it way what grade/thickness it is. I went ahead and tried using it tonight to fill some hallway sized panel lines on a 1/1400 resin starship. Will it work? Will it require several fillings? Should I have just applied the Testors red putty?
Abolish Alliteration
Thanks! Didn't get a fast reply last night, so I went ahead and toothpicked on some of it. Indeed, it took 3 applications before it stopped collapsing into the panel line. Worked great though on pinholes and other imperfections lthat the resin primer rattlecan didn't catch. I'm guessing I don't need to sand down the bumps with any grit larger than #400 or so?
Apologies for what must be an old topic. Is there some cheaper alternative to the spray can of Mr. Resin Surfacer? It's amazing stuff, but 10 bucks for a few ounces is just outrageous. Are Duplicolor or Plasticote sandable primers the same stuff? I'd like it to preserve detail and go down as smooth as the Gunz product. And I want it in a spray can because I gum up my airbrush enough with regular paint. And it needs to be compatible with resin models. Any other alternatives?
- Jonas Calhoun
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Alternative? Yes. Replacement? No.
Mr. Resin Primer as you've noticed is amazing stuff...but it is expensive. And in my opinion, worth every penny. I've had pretty good luck with Krylon and Duplicolor for smooth areas, but where there's detail, I pull out the Mr. Surfacer products. Others report better success, but I need all the help I can get.
Things you can try to help out the cheaper products: Put the can in a pan of warm water for a few minutes. This helps to thin out the paint a bit and it flows easier. Don't put it on a stove, microwave, or anything like that.
Shake it a lot. The can. I mean the paint can. Shake it until your arm falls off, use some Aves to re-attach your arm, then shake it some more. The grains in the other primers settle, and you've gotta get them moving. And not in just and up and down motion, but every so often roll it so the ball scrapes the bottom.
Good luck, we're all counting on you!
Dan
Mr. Resin Primer as you've noticed is amazing stuff...but it is expensive. And in my opinion, worth every penny. I've had pretty good luck with Krylon and Duplicolor for smooth areas, but where there's detail, I pull out the Mr. Surfacer products. Others report better success, but I need all the help I can get.
Things you can try to help out the cheaper products: Put the can in a pan of warm water for a few minutes. This helps to thin out the paint a bit and it flows easier. Don't put it on a stove, microwave, or anything like that.
Shake it a lot. The can. I mean the paint can. Shake it until your arm falls off, use some Aves to re-attach your arm, then shake it some more. The grains in the other primers settle, and you've gotta get them moving. And not in just and up and down motion, but every so often roll it so the ball scrapes the bottom.
Good luck, we're all counting on you!
Dan
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I think it's mostly due to a change in shipping regulations - or that's what I'm told. You have to have a license to ship various hazard grades.
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Kylwell wrote:Spray on Vinyl vs Mr. Surfacer spray, on vinyl...
That's what I read it as... was I wrong again?
![Shock :shock:](./images/smilies/icon_eek.gif)
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