Basics. Colors. Types of paint
Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators
- Slide
- Posts: 4433
- Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2003 10:49 pm
- Location: Lost, in this place you call "Reality"
- Contact:
not only that, but it'll make it look pretty with less work!
[at least that's how I understand it]
[at least that's how I understand it]
"When you leave my academy you will be weapons! focused! and full of Purpose! Hot-rod rocket-jocks of prescision and strength, tear-@$$ing across the cosmos hunting for heaven!" -- Sgt. Maj. Frank Bougus [R. Lee Ermey, S:AAB]
jocuri cu nave
jocuri cu nave
- TER-OR
- Site Admin
- Posts: 10531
- Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2002 7:05 pm
- Location: Conjugate imprecision of time negates absolute determination of location.
- Contact:
The idea behind slo-dri is to make acrylic cure more slowly. The acrylic paints - particularly for airbrushing - are meant to cure pretty quickly. Hand-brushing requires exactly the opposite - slow curing so brush lines have a chance to settle. Flow-aid is also for this.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
What about drying times? I paint my base coats with Testors rattle cans.
Example: I sand the entire surface of my resin models with 1000 grit paper. Then I wash them thoroughly, dry them and apply thin coats of (insert color here). I am currently on week 2 for drying time on a Pioneer class for example. The nacelles dried in no time, spayed with the same Testors paint, the primary and secondary hulls are still tacky after 2 weeks.
Is it a reaction with the resin?
Should I be using a sealer first?
Thank
Jon
Example: I sand the entire surface of my resin models with 1000 grit paper. Then I wash them thoroughly, dry them and apply thin coats of (insert color here). I am currently on week 2 for drying time on a Pioneer class for example. The nacelles dried in no time, spayed with the same Testors paint, the primary and secondary hulls are still tacky after 2 weeks.
Is it a reaction with the resin?
Should I be using a sealer first?
Thank
Jon
-
- Moderator
- Posts: 2463
- Joined: Sat Jul 13, 2002 4:42 pm
- Location: Back home in Cincy!
- Contact:
I alway prime the surface first. This usually gives a firm, stable base for the finished color.
"Tell me and I forget. Teach me and I remember. Involve me and I learn."
- Benjamin Franklin
"I am recalibrating my lack of faith in humanity. I start by reading opinions on message boards…"
- Dogbert
"What is his Comprehension level? Are we talking Human, Squirrel or Anvil?"
- Dilbert
- Benjamin Franklin
"I am recalibrating my lack of faith in humanity. I start by reading opinions on message boards…"
- Dogbert
"What is his Comprehension level? Are we talking Human, Squirrel or Anvil?"
- Dilbert
- TER-OR
- Site Admin
- Posts: 10531
- Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2002 7:05 pm
- Location: Conjugate imprecision of time negates absolute determination of location.
- Contact:
I use Gunze-Sangyo Mr. Surfacer as a primer for resin stuff now. And for styrene kits on which I've applied lots of resin or had to do lots of scribing etc.
Specific to your question regaring the rattlecans, I haven't used them for quite a while so I don't have an answer. I do remember some bad experiences using some brands, but don't have any specifics for you.
Specific to your question regaring the rattlecans, I haven't used them for quite a while so I don't have an answer. I do remember some bad experiences using some brands, but don't have any specifics for you.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
-
- Posts: 422
- Joined: Fri Dec 23, 2005 9:30 am
Does anyone know if Floquil paints can be used on vinyl kits please? The paint colour that I want to use is Floquil Grime. If not, is there an alternative? The kit that I will be painting is the ArgoNauts vinyl kit of the Millennium Falcon. Have been advised that Floquil Grime was used on the original ILM models. Some photos of the Fine Molds Falcon painted with Floquil Grime have been posted on the Replica Prop Forum site, and it looks very accurate - the best I've seen so far. Also read somewhere that Master Replicas used Floquil Grime as the main hull colour for their new studio scale replica of the Falcon.
- BERT aka MODEL MAKER
- Posts: 876
- Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2003 11:01 pm
- Location: LAKE TAHOE, NEVADA
ok, what kind of primer do i need to use if i am using tamiya rattle cans that are synthetic laquer ? ( thats what the tamiya site said it is and my hobby dealer as well.) how do you tell what kind of primer to use with laquer paints ? will the testors primer work ok ? does it have to be a special primer for laquer paint ? those primer cans don't say if the contents are enamel or laquer and don't say which type of paint they are used for. if anyone can set me strait on this i would appreciate it ![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_cheesygrin.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_cheesygrin.gif)
BERT
MODEL MAKER
IF MY SIGNAL IS BLINKING, I AM NOT ASKING PERMISSION
MODEL MAKER
IF MY SIGNAL IS BLINKING, I AM NOT ASKING PERMISSION
- BERT aka MODEL MAKER
- Posts: 876
- Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2003 11:01 pm
- Location: LAKE TAHOE, NEVADA
i think next week, i will stop at a hobby shop there to see if i can find those. i would prefer to use the same brand primer and paint.
Last edited by BERT aka MODEL MAKER on Fri Nov 20, 2009 1:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
BERT
MODEL MAKER
IF MY SIGNAL IS BLINKING, I AM NOT ASKING PERMISSION
MODEL MAKER
IF MY SIGNAL IS BLINKING, I AM NOT ASKING PERMISSION
Excellent - Thanks Kylwell!Kylwell wrote:The Metalizers, acryls, and the enamels can be intermixed among the same paint line (metalizer with metalizer, acryl wth acryl, etc).iSteve wrote:Can Model Master metal paints be mixed? Eg: Put some copper in with aluminum to get a colour more like the hull of the NX-01?
For 15 francs more, I can put a can of sardines on your chest.
Alclad Prismatic Finishes
According to the Alclad site, prismatic finishes are suppose to be sprayed over a dark base.
My question is this, can these prismatic finishes be sprayed over a lighter color such as a grey or even a Alclad Steel?
I figure the issue may be intensity? But if you are looking for a suttle effect, this may work over Alclad Steel, Aluminum, etc?
My question is this, can these prismatic finishes be sprayed over a lighter color such as a grey or even a Alclad Steel?
I figure the issue may be intensity? But if you are looking for a suttle effect, this may work over Alclad Steel, Aluminum, etc?
- Mr. Badwrench
- Posts: 9587
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 6:31 pm
- Location: Wheatridge, Co.
I've recently read a little about paint incompatibility, that enamels don't go well over lacquers. I've also been having trouble lately with paint peeling. I've never had this problem until a few months ago, (except many many years ago, when I didn't know to wash models before painting, but that's another story). Anyway, I've been priming everything for the past year or so with Mr. Surfacer 1200. I like it a lot, because it's a lacquer, and it will stick to just about anything. Also it leaves a beautiful finish, especially after polishing it with a wet 6000 grit stick. The problem comes in when I paint over it with Model Master enamels, my mainstay. I'm sure the primer is cured, I usually let it sit for a couple days or more. But even low-tack Tamiya tape, stuck to a piece of glass two or three times to remove even more tack, is peeling up the enamel.
So I guess I have two questions: One, is there really a paint incompatibility between lacquer and enamel? And two, if there is, can I get around it by laying down a barrier coat in between them, say Future?
So I guess I have two questions: One, is there really a paint incompatibility between lacquer and enamel? And two, if there is, can I get around it by laying down a barrier coat in between them, say Future?
I speak of the pompatous of plastic.
- Mr. Badwrench
- Posts: 9587
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 6:31 pm
- Location: Wheatridge, Co.
Aluminum Finish
Hi folks, hope someone can help ...
I gotta couple of projects lined up for the winter months. They are the large 1/72 B-29 and B-36 models. I want to paint them to give 'em the "aluminum see your face" finish. I've read about metalizers, so I got a testor, appied to inner wing and buffed. Got a shine, but not the aluminum look, plus I got buffing lines. I've read about a product called SNJ paint and powder. Saying to paint, then when still tacky, use the powder to buff. I've also read about adding a couple "golbs" (whatever that measurement is) to future and bottom spray it to get the atomizing from the a/b. It also warns that powder will go everywhere.
Does anyone know about any of this?
Once I finish my optic DS9 and Enterprise D, it's off to those models.
Thanks...OB
I gotta couple of projects lined up for the winter months. They are the large 1/72 B-29 and B-36 models. I want to paint them to give 'em the "aluminum see your face" finish. I've read about metalizers, so I got a testor, appied to inner wing and buffed. Got a shine, but not the aluminum look, plus I got buffing lines. I've read about a product called SNJ paint and powder. Saying to paint, then when still tacky, use the powder to buff. I've also read about adding a couple "golbs" (whatever that measurement is) to future and bottom spray it to get the atomizing from the a/b. It also warns that powder will go everywhere.
Does anyone know about any of this?
Once I finish my optic DS9 and Enterprise D, it's off to those models.
Thanks...OB
- TER-OR
- Site Admin
- Posts: 10531
- Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2002 7:05 pm
- Location: Conjugate imprecision of time negates absolute determination of location.
- Contact:
I haven't used SNJ. You might want to try Modeling Madness' discussion board.
I do really like the Alclad lacquers, though. THey're really easy to use.
I do really like the Alclad lacquers, though. THey're really easy to use.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
Thanks TER-OR. I've beend doing some more reading and it looks like Alclad II might be the way to go. SNJ require a lot of buffing and those two models are huge. The one discussion I read said for best results you should prime the model with black lacquer. Can a flat white be used instead, do you know? Maybe the black undercoat gives the aluminum finish the extra "stand-out" power. Plus the discussion also said the finish is more durable as you don't want to future the final product or you lose that sheen.
Thanks again. OB
Thanks again. OB
- TER-OR
- Site Admin
- Posts: 10531
- Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2002 7:05 pm
- Location: Conjugate imprecision of time negates absolute determination of location.
- Contact:
For Chrome, Gloss Black works best. However, Gloss white will look more like chromed plastic, like on modern cars. Over flat, it looks more like painted aluminum ala 1950s and 1940s planes. Same with aluminum etc.
You can use a lot of different things underneath, but experiment first. I've used Alclad Exhaust and Dark Aluminum over Gunze Sangyo Mr. Surfacer 1000 in the rattle-can. It worked fine. For super-bright chrome, though, I will probably play it safe and do the gloss black.
You really don't want to make your project your first experiment, in case something doesn't work. Get some cheap aircraft or armor kits you're never gonna build and use them as experimental subjects.
You can use a lot of different things underneath, but experiment first. I've used Alclad Exhaust and Dark Aluminum over Gunze Sangyo Mr. Surfacer 1000 in the rattle-can. It worked fine. For super-bright chrome, though, I will probably play it safe and do the gloss black.
You really don't want to make your project your first experiment, in case something doesn't work. Get some cheap aircraft or armor kits you're never gonna build and use them as experimental subjects.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati