PRIMERS

[jpolacchi]

Somewhere in an earlier thread someone brought up the subject of PRIMERS.So I'm "not opposed" to acrylic primers,but does anyone have some favorites or suggestions for "primers" be it on plastic kits or resin kits(or even kits with metal parts?).Different applications I know,but its hard to find a SOLID performing primer 'in scale" that lays on ,"sticks" and doesn't swamp kit details.

[Tesral]

I go to war gaming, they have the same issues. While I don';t liker citadel paint I do like their primers, I keep white and black on hand.

[seam-filler]

Although I mostly use Halfords primers (available only in the UK), I would second the Citadel Miniatures Primers. They stick to styrene, ABS and metal and will even stick to vinyl and polypropylene!

[jpolacchi]

Cool!I think the shop I go to(since gaming is so popular) has that primer.They are enamles?Black primer is good to have,it blocks out light and keeps LEDS from being seen through thin cast pieces

[seam-filler]

No, Citadel primers are acrylic. You can use enamels as a top coat. A word of advice - Citadel don't actually sell the paint as a primer anymore (at least not in Europe), what you'd be looking for are Chaos Black, Mechanicus Standard Grey and Corax White sprays.

[jpolacchi]

Gotcha.Thanks for clearing that up.I know I saw some aerosol paints in the shop(black,white,one was a camo green or something?).They were on a rack near all the game stuff.The model building supplies are on the far end of the store as are all the other brands like Tamiya,Model master/Testors and Vallejo.I wasn't sure what kind of paint was in the cans(as many of you know) they don't always "state" if its a laquer or enamel or something else, but often looking at the can it is either or and enamels appear to be far more prevalent than laquers.

[naoto]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSAKLmcYF9U

Fixing Nose Cone Paint Problems
Apogee Components - Dec 18, 2018

http://www.ApogeeRockets.com - Getting paint to stick to polypropylene nose cones is a challenge because the plastic is so slippery. In this video, Tim will show you his trick to getting the paint to stick.

[EVApodman]

I was recommended Tamiya Fine White primer. It is a lacquer and I used it to get a satin smooth finish for my Proteus model.

[dizzyfugu]

If you want some seriously good stuff, and willing to invest some bucks, I also recommend Tamiya Fine White primer. Excellent stuff.

But a good, grey acrylic car color primer (e.g. from Duplicolor) also works fine. If you have issues with clogged details it's IMHO rather an application issue (either too much paint at once, or the object is not really clean and you have some fat/oil/silicone residue on the surface) than a matter of the paint material itself?

[Kylwell]

I swear by the Mr. Color Mr. Surface line. Mr. Surfacer 1000, 1200, 1500 got on thin & tight. I'll use Tamiya Fine White if I'm out of Mr. Surfacer.

Beyond that I have used Vallejo's polyurethane & Model Air primers. The polyurethane primes aren't necessarily made to prime, then sand. They can peel & gum up the sandpaper. Sometimes. I think it's a mixing issue but I haven't been able to nail it down. Their Model Air paints also go on thinly.

[DonS]

I was hooked on Tamiya grey primer until trying Duplicolor sealer primer....doesn't have quite the luster of Tamiya's but is just as fine-grained. 8 bucks a can at pretty much any auto parts store and is really good stuff. It's a laquer. Look for part number DAP1699 on the can.