Advanced. Weathering. Pastels
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- Lt. Z0mBe
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Re: Thanks !!
DO you mean for replicating small openings such as starship windows? If so, I've not done it for that purpose explicitly. But, I don't build capital ships. However, it DOES work nicely for rivet detail. I would think it would work for other small indentations like starship windows in small scales. You may need to make your wash strong if it's a light color, or repeat it many times.justcrash wrote:Zombe, have you (or for that matter anyone) used this technique for doing windows and such? I ask because if I can eliminate using oils all together , I will!Lt. Z0mBe wrote:I have a full artist's set of "Alphacolor" brand pastels. I think they were made by a company called WC. But, it's hard to say since this set is about 25 or 30 years old. Seriously. They last forever.dkeets wrote:That is a perfect explanation, thanks Zombe.
What brand of pastel chalk do you use and is there an online source for it? I went to a couple art supply stores and all they carry are the oil-based pastels and I'm pretty sure these won't work for this technique.
But yes, you, Ter, and kyl are right. Don't use the oil pastels. They won't mix well.
In my earlier post, I meant to say I grind with a paintbrush handle, not just the brush itself. I do this in the palette like an old-fashioned mortar and pestil. Make sense?
I was just at Michaels today, and I saw some of the chalk pastels, but I didn't pay attention to the price, no pun intended.
But, when you get it right, and it's easy, you'll never go back to anything petroleum-based again.
I hope this helps.
Z0mBe
I hope this helps.
Kenny
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Yes. If you completely "wet coat" coat pastels, they will go from a subtle shading to a "rained-on-dust" look. The sequence should goSluis Van Shipyards wrote:That seriously works?! I always completely coated the model with Dullcote after pastels.TER-OR wrote:Very light - as in spray some Dullcoat lacquer in the air and move the piece thru the mist....
...then do as little as possible to the model.
glosscoat-flatcoat-pastels-dusting. You can try several light coats.
Just mist, and fly the craft through the mist. But, you MUST make the appropriate "whoosh" sound as you go.
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/lol.gif)
Try an experiment with it sometime and compare them side-by-side. You'll be shocked at the difference.
Kenny
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Hmm, I always make the bbbbbb whistle like the Jetsons car.
It should apply enough to keep the pastels in place - but they won't put up with too much damage. Be careful handling it.
It should apply enough to keep the pastels in place - but they won't put up with too much damage. Be careful handling it.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
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Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
I have just starting using the pastels for weathering. Hell for that matter I just started weathering. I have not tried a wash yet, will try that soon though.
Anyhow, my question, I have been weathering directly to the gloss coat and have had reasonable results. Does this make a difference? Will the weathering look better if applied over the dull coat?
Oh, I stumbled on the the shwooosh dusting method completely by accident. (noises and all)
j
Anyhow, my question, I have been weathering directly to the gloss coat and have had reasonable results. Does this make a difference? Will the weathering look better if applied over the dull coat?
Oh, I stumbled on the the shwooosh dusting method completely by accident. (noises and all)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_cheesygrin.gif)
j
Thanks kylwell. It actually never occurred to me to apply pastels to a "bare" model. As in not gloss coated. My though was that it may "bond" (not the right word) to the paints, making corrections near impossible.
I did have some of the lighter shades of grey and tan fade out on my PL TOS E when the second sealing gloss coat was applied.
The overall result was okay, but there was alot more subtle weathering before...
j
I did have some of the lighter shades of grey and tan fade out on my PL TOS E when the second sealing gloss coat was applied.
![Sad :(](./images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)
The overall result was okay, but there was alot more subtle weathering before...
j
Hi Y'all,
I'm familiar with chalks and have used them for years but just picked up my first set of the ,'Tamiya Weathering Master' stuff. I've read what's been posted here and of course I'll do some experimenting before committing them to a model but I thought I'd ask if anyone can share further experiences, tricks or opinions about them before I crack em open?
Thanks in advance!![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_cheesygrin.gif)
I'm familiar with chalks and have used them for years but just picked up my first set of the ,'Tamiya Weathering Master' stuff. I've read what's been posted here and of course I'll do some experimenting before committing them to a model but I thought I'd ask if anyone can share further experiences, tricks or opinions about them before I crack em open?
Thanks in advance!
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_cheesygrin.gif)
Duck Dodgers of the 24th and a half century!
I always used my paint thinner to weather. I've used it on every SW ship I've done since I was a kid.
The thinner is usually a dark color (since I'm always cleaning greys, black, and silver) and over time this goop forms at the bottom of the bottle.
A few swipes makes everything dirty, it goes into recesses, and the grime leave little flecks of crud here and there.
Plus, if it goes on too dark, I just make a clean swipe with just thinner and no goop.
I'm surprised no-one else has mentioned this.
Or is it just me?
The thinner is usually a dark color (since I'm always cleaning greys, black, and silver) and over time this goop forms at the bottom of the bottle.
A few swipes makes everything dirty, it goes into recesses, and the grime leave little flecks of crud here and there.
Plus, if it goes on too dark, I just make a clean swipe with just thinner and no goop.
I'm surprised no-one else has mentioned this.
Or is it just me?
By Grabthar's Hammer.......what a savings.
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Liquitex products are available at Michaels, Hobby Lobby and other craft or art stores. You want Flo-Aid - but buy some Slo-Dri too - that's useful stuff.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
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Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
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Mostly in the painting section - Flo-Aid is a surfactant and helps the paint or other liquid spread along a surface. Slo-Dri will retard the drying of a liquid. This is best used in hand-brushing where you don't want the paint to dry quickly - so you can blend it.
These are for acrylic paints, not oil or enamel.
These are for acrylic paints, not oil or enamel.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
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You shouldn't need to overcoat pastels liquid wash if you did the panel lines, but remember there's nothing really holding them on the model. Overcoating will give you better durability - and even out the sheen.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
While looking up information on French Chalk (Freedom Chalk?) I ran across this product: http://www.meininger.com/store/detail.aspx?ID=6553
Looks like a pastel wash in a pen.
More info here.
Looks like a pastel wash in a pen.
More info here.
Abolish Alliteration
For small streaks I use either a micro brush, a fine paint brush or a fine silicon clay shaper. Dab a bit of pastel powder on then work it back for a streak.
Panel lines & what can be accentuated with a soft foam brush or cat's tongue paint brush. Use a darker gray to gently work it around the panel lines.
Panel lines & what can be accentuated with a soft foam brush or cat's tongue paint brush. Use a darker gray to gently work it around the panel lines.
Abolish Alliteration
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[Raises Hand] What's a "cat's tongue" paint brush, Robb? [/Raises Hand]Kylwell wrote:For small streaks I use either a micro brush, a fine paint brush or a fine silicon clay shaper. Dab a bit of pastel powder on then work it back for a streak.
Panel lines & what can be accentuated with a soft foam brush or cat's tongue paint brush. Use a darker gray to gently work it around the panel lines.
I'm very much the uninitiate when it comes to art terms outside of the hobby, I'm afraid.
![Brick wall ](*,)](./images/smilies/eusa_wall.gif)
Kenny
Also known as a Filbert.Lt. Z0mBe wrote:[Raises Hand] What's a "cat's tongue" paint brush, Robb? [/Raises Hand]Kylwell wrote:For small streaks I use either a micro brush, a fine paint brush or a fine silicon clay shaper. Dab a bit of pastel powder on then work it back for a streak.
Panel lines & what can be accentuated with a soft foam brush or cat's tongue paint brush. Use a darker gray to gently work it around the panel lines.
I'm very much the uninitiate when it comes to art terms outside of the hobby, I'm afraid.
Kenny
Abolish Alliteration