Canopy... from scratch

karim · Post by **karim** » Wed Feb 08, 2006 9:18 pm

I'm working on a project and I need some suggestions on the canopy.

Its a 1/72 scale kitbash, and I need to make a custom canopy.

As I see it, I have two choices:

I can make the canopy solid... basically fill it in with Aves or similar, and count on pulling off a really nice Gold or Gloss Black paint job.

Or I can try to fabricate a canopy out of clear plastic, and hope that I can get it perfectly smooth and clear at such a small scale.

Since I don't have a pilot to put in the cockpit, I'm partial to Option 1, but I'm a bit concerned about pulling off the effect with paint.

Any tips?

Zen-Builder · Post by **Zen-Builder** » Wed Feb 08, 2006 9:23 pm

How about making a master of the canopy shape and than vac-forming a canopy from it?

karim · Post by **karim** » Wed Feb 08, 2006 9:25 pm

That's how I'd do it, but I don't have a pilot for the cockpit... Also, this was supposed to be a "quick-n-dirty" build

macfrank · Post by **macfrank** » Wed Feb 08, 2006 10:33 pm

karim wrote:That's how I'd do it, but I don't have a pilot for the cockpit... Also, this was supposed to be a "quick-n-dirty" build

What type of pilots do you need? I have a couple from the Hasegawa /72 USAF crew set, if that's all that's stopping you.

If you don't want to detail the cockpit, I think that a translucent canopy looks better than an opaque one. You can use Rub N' Buff gold on it, and buff it until it's almost transparent - it'll also polish the plastic for you. You can also paint the canopy with Tamiya clear "smoke" (or other clear acrylic color) so that it's translucent but not opaque.

karim · Post by **karim** » Thu Feb 09, 2006 6:17 pm

I honstly don't know what kind of pilot I need

Its a kit-bashed 1/72 bf-109, converted into an Underwater fighter.

Post by **TER-OR** » Thu Feb 09, 2006 7:33 pm

If the canopy is underwater, there's a good chance you won't see anything past the plexiglass.

But if you want to, thermoforming is not difficult. Some blister pack, a master and a candle are all you need. Oh, heat-resistant gloves don't hurt....

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Fri Feb 10, 2006 4:38 am

Thermoforming canopies is easier than vacuforming them. Just make your plug and pull a piece of hot clear plastic over it. You might have to make four or five of them to get one you're happy with, but so what? The clear plastic covers from KFC trays or McDonalds salads are practically free, and there is enough there to make half a dozen canopies.

davehal9000 · Post by **davehal9000** » Fri Feb 10, 2006 12:34 pm

Being underwater, I'd say make a male master, thermomold a copy, then paint the inside a chrome silver.

Augustus · Post by **Augustus** » Sun Feb 19, 2006 6:31 pm

For some reason every single time I try to thermoform, my plastic gets black. Too close?

Maybe a better question is, how long (relatively speaking) should a piece of plastic take to soften when held over the candle?

naoto · Post by **naoto** » Sun Feb 19, 2006 6:50 pm

BTW, what thickness of plastic are you using? If it's too thick you end up having to hold the plastic over the flame for too long and you end up accumulating a lot of soot which gets embedded into the plastic. Also you may want to use a heat source other than a candle. 120-watt bulbs put out a lot of heat (guess what's in an "Easy-Bake Oven"), as do the halogen bulbs in those "torch" style lamps.

Augustus · Post by **Augustus** » Sun Feb 19, 2006 7:00 pm

Using clear blister packaging. I'll check around for a lightbulb set-up. Might help.

Silver Spar · Post by **Silver Spar** » Sun Feb 19, 2006 7:20 pm

Augustus wrote:For some reason every single time I try to thermoform, my plastic gets black. Too close?

Maybe a better question is, how long (relatively speaking) should a piece of plastic take to soften when held over the candle?

I've never had a problem with thermoforming - I don't use a candle though, I stick the sheet on a balsa ring with a hole just larger than the piece I'm trying to make, secure it with a couple of bulldog clips and stick the whole thing in an Electric oven at about 120 Degrees Centigrade for about 10 mins (I usually leave a bit of plastic hanging over the outer edge of the ring so I can see when it's getting floppy) - if it doesn't soften enough, I just up the temp and leave it for a while longer - Just don't set it too high, Don't use a good baking tray, and whatever you do don't wander off and do something else while you're waiting unless you want everything you cook for the next couple of weeks to taste of burnt plastic.

Mark Yungblut · Post by **Mark Yungblut** » Mon Feb 20, 2006 1:12 am

I have several sizes of frames that I made from 1"x2" wood. I then ductape the plastic down (a good supply for plastic is 2 liter pop bottles).

I heat mine with a heat gun. Please make sure to use a mold release on the master.

Hope this helps.

Mark