Decanting Spray Paint?

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Silver Spar
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Decanting Spray Paint?

Post by Silver Spar »

Well, folks, I reckon I need a little help here.

I've found what i consider to be a perfect grouping of paints for a project in the Tamiya Aircraft Spray line, but unfortunately those paints aren't manufactured in pots as well.

I plan on spraying the major hull patterning before assembly (to minimise the need for masking) so I'll need matching colours in both spray and pots.

After an intensive googling session, I couldn't find a match for those colours, but I did find an article about decanting paint from spray cans for use in an airbrush. Has anyone here tried that? Does anyone know of I can also use that paint on a regular brush?

Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.
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Lt. Z0mBe
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Post by Lt. Z0mBe »

I don't know about Tamiya paints, but I have, on many occasions, used Krylon and DupliColor spray paint on a brush.

What I do is spray a little into an airbrush bottle. I'll wait about ten minutes or so, and then dip the brush into the paint; this gives the paint time to thicken just enough to be a little easier to apply.

I hope this helps.

Z0mBe

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Jonas Calhoun
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Post by Jonas Calhoun »

I've decanted Krylon into an airbrush jar, and then both hand and airbrushed out of it. For Airbrushing, you will have to thin it a bit, handbrushing no problem.

What I did, was take out the white piece of plastic (the nozzle) from the trigger, and fit a straw in there--it took a bit of looking for the right size straw, but it went in there (can't remeber where I got it though). Tape it in, and then put the straw in the bottle. A few hits of the trigger, and you've got enough to play with.

Dan
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sbaxter
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Post by sbaxter »

Jonas Calhoun wrote:I've decanted Krylon into an airbrush jar, and then both hand and airbrushed out of it. For Airbrushing, you will have to thin it a bit, handbrushing no problem.

What I did, was take out the white piece of plastic (the nozzle) from the trigger, and fit a straw in there
Anyone ever try using the spray nozzle from a can of WD40, given that it's made to take the little straw? Don't know if it would fit or not.

I've had luck taping a length of drinking straw to a spray can nozzle. Not as tricky as it sounds -- but I'd recommend actually doing the job outdoors.

And don't decant into a bottle, close it up, and then shake it up later in preparation for using it ... trust me. Bad things, man! Maybe letting it stand open for a while will help, but in my experience it doesn't solve the problem. Handle it carefully before opening and stir to mix it up again.

Qapla'

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Silver Spar
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Post by Silver Spar »

Thanks folks.

By a strange co-incidence I discovered I already had a can of one of the colors I wanted, so was able to try the suggested methods with the exact paint I intend to use 8)

It does appear to be a little fizzy for a while after it comes out of the can, but it brushes on beautifully, and gives fairly good coverage.

The only strange thing is that it reacted badly with the paint I had already applied as a primer to a couple of pieces. No big deal - just annoying at this stage. I'll just have to watch out as I intend to use paint of the same brand as the primer for detail work. If it doesn't like going on over the top of the decanted spray paint, I may have to re-think things a bit.
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geminibuildups
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Decanting Spray Paint

Post by geminibuildups »

I have been decanting spray paint for many years. Partly because I use a lot of when building projects for clients and it is a lot more economical than buying many so many small bottles. The other reason is because I use automotive paints extensively and these are more widely available in large cans.

The easiest way is to get a standard spray can nozzle. Remove the small plastic piece with the hole and replace it with a piece of 3/16" brass tubing. It is a perfect snug fit which will prevent the paint from splattering all over the place and making a HUGE mess. (Sadly, I speak from experience here :cry: )

When I want to use a large amount of a certain color, I like to decant into a 4oz. mason jar. These are available in the housewares department at Walmart and similar stores and are very inexpensive. I just purchased a box of 12 for around $7.00. (Even cheaper than the airbrush jars) They have a flat top disc with a rubber seal and can keep paint fresh for quite a long time.

Hope this helps.


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TrekFX
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Post by TrekFX »

If you don't mind killing a whole can, how about inverting the can as if to clear the nozzle? The pickup tube will be above the surface of the paint contents, up in just propellant gas.)

Hold the button until all pressure is released (maybe even warm the can a little to make sure it's good and "dead."

Then use a can-opener and pour out the contents.
Silver Spar
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Post by Silver Spar »

I personally really only need a little paint to cover over where I sand down the seams - seems to work OK if I spray some in the cap of the can, so removing all the propellant and opening the can seems a little like overkill, if not a great way to cause an explosive decompression and get paint everywhere.

I've already had to replace all the perspex in the greenhouse once (that's where I do my spraying) after I left a can in there on a sunny day. Not cheap.

Thanks for the suggestions though...
"My definition of an expert in any field is a person who knows enough about what's really going on to be scared."
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Saturn
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Post by Saturn »

I'm a big fan of Tamiya rattle can gloss, and I've decanted a lot of cans into bottles. This is what I know:

-A 3oz rattle can will yield a little over 2 fl. oz. of paint. I was able to score a number of "boston round" 2oz bottles from an on-line bottle dealer.

-I let the can set in a coffee mug of water that's being heated by one of those warming plates. (these warming plates are also excellent for keeping decal water warm.

-Nothin' fancy, I just use a bendy straw. The straw empties into the bottle that's sealed with Glad Press N' Seal...a textured food wrap they sell here.

-two vent holes are pierced in the wrap so the gas can escape. Otherwise the gas can backfeed into the straw, and that's an awful mess.

-Let it outgas *uncapped* for a couple of hours before shooting it. Some paints will need an overnight.
sbaxter wrote:And don't decant into a bottle, close it up, and then shake it up later in preparation for using it ... trust me. Bad things, man! Maybe letting it stand open for a while will help, but in my experience it doesn't solve the problem. Handle it carefully before opening and stir to mix it up again.
Been there, done that. But I didn't shake it up, I used a battery mixer- results just as ugly. And this is after I left the bottle uncapped an entire weekend so it could outgas. Well, it did outgas...but shaking/mixing woke up the active ingredient inherent to aerosol paint.

Here's where it gets tricky. Storing decanted and bottle aerosol paint *might* be considered a little risky. That ingredient is still active, and everynow and then when I open a bottle, I'm greeted with a minor pop; not unlike opening a 2L bottle of soda pop. Shaking is a big no-no. And storing it in cool and dry is highly recommended.

I've decanted at least a couple of dozen cans. No messy incidents other than the one I mentioned with the battery mixer.

Hope this helps!
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GameraBaenre
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Post by GameraBaenre »

I had a friend that wanted me to show him how to decant the contents of a spray can this past weekend, so I took that opportunity to create a video. I Created a tutorial page and placed a video of it here:
http://www.gamerabaenre.com/decanting.htm

Figure I could revive a 3 year old thread... :shock:
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starmanmm
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Post by starmanmm »

Good timing.... interested in learning how to do it.

As much as I like dupli color primer.... I prefer to spray it from my AB than from the can. I feel I have better control than with the can.... meaning how much gets sprayed on the kit.

Question, do you have to throw away what ever you don't use or can you just put the cover on it and keep it until you need it again?
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