Help needed in fixing resin prop grip!!
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Help needed in fixing resin prop grip!!
Hello Folks
Alright I have a bit of an issue. I purchased a BSG S-01 prop a while back and well after some false starts I'm sitting down to make the pistol. Of course the thing had some flaws and one of the most obvious is the grips; specifically there is almost no distance between the molded in detail of the Grip Medallions and the Grip screws. In fact they are so close on one side that it almost looks like they overlap. Now I could easily fill both in with bondo and re-countersink and etc. but what do I do to recreate the pattern for that circular section of the filled in screw detail.
Here is a picture of what I want the finished grip to look like as seen on the raw unpainted prop;
https://img0.etsystatic.com/114/0/11065 ... 6_9r97.jpg
so you all can see the pattern I want to duplicate. The area doesn't have to be perfect; I figure I will run something (what I don't know) over the bondo I put in the hole before it fully sets to recreate the pattern. Thanks for any help or suggestions I can get; they will be GREATLY Appreciated!!!
DarKev
Alright I have a bit of an issue. I purchased a BSG S-01 prop a while back and well after some false starts I'm sitting down to make the pistol. Of course the thing had some flaws and one of the most obvious is the grips; specifically there is almost no distance between the molded in detail of the Grip Medallions and the Grip screws. In fact they are so close on one side that it almost looks like they overlap. Now I could easily fill both in with bondo and re-countersink and etc. but what do I do to recreate the pattern for that circular section of the filled in screw detail.
Here is a picture of what I want the finished grip to look like as seen on the raw unpainted prop;
https://img0.etsystatic.com/114/0/11065 ... 6_9r97.jpg
so you all can see the pattern I want to duplicate. The area doesn't have to be perfect; I figure I will run something (what I don't know) over the bondo I put in the hole before it fully sets to recreate the pattern. Thanks for any help or suggestions I can get; they will be GREATLY Appreciated!!!
DarKev
Why would one buy a "NEW" Multi_Million Dollar Management Information System that can't do processes that the old system did correctly?? Answer - Someone in Upper Level Administration got a "GIFT" (Unknown Author)
Sometimes a "texture stamp" is useful for this sort of thing. Take a blob of Aves or Milliput, wait until it's about half hardened, then press it against a section of the texture. Let it harden and you have a llittle stamp you can use to texture a surface with.
Fill the hole with Aves or Milliput, use the stamp to press in the texture, touch it up a bit with a toothpick or tool of your choice. If necessary you can smooth the putty a bit using a wet paintbrush.
Of course, you ought to experiment first, before working on your gun.
Fill the hole with Aves or Milliput, use the stamp to press in the texture, touch it up a bit with a toothpick or tool of your choice. If necessary you can smooth the putty a bit using a wet paintbrush.
Of course, you ought to experiment first, before working on your gun.
Last edited by Rocketeer on Mon Mar 20, 2017 12:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Hey Rocketeer
That is ONE OF THE MOST Cost Effective, Simple and Extremely Clever ideas I have ever heard of!!! I would have NEVER thought of that!!
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!
DarKev
That is ONE OF THE MOST Cost Effective, Simple and Extremely Clever ideas I have ever heard of!!! I would have NEVER thought of that!!
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!
DarKev
Rocketeer wrote:Sometimes a "texture stamp" is useful for this sort of thing. Take a blob of Aves or Millipuy, wait until it's about half hardened, then press it against a section of the texture. Let it harden and you have a llittle stamp you can use to texture a surface with.
Fill the hole with Aves or Milliput, use the stamp to press in the texture, touch it up a bit with a toothpick or tool of your choice. If necessary you can smooth the putty a bit using a wet paintbrush.
Of course, you ought to experiment first, before working on your gun.
Why would one buy a "NEW" Multi_Million Dollar Management Information System that can't do processes that the old system did correctly?? Answer - Someone in Upper Level Administration got a "GIFT" (Unknown Author)
- Lt. Z0mBe
- Posts: 7311
- Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 1:46 pm
- Location: Balltown Kentucky, by God!
- Contact:
Re: Help needed in fixing resin prop grip!!
I know this is more than you want, but it's an easy fix:DarKev wrote:Hello Folks
Alright I have a bit of an issue. I purchased a BSG S-01 prop a while back and well after some false starts I'm sitting down to make the pistol. Of course the thing had some flaws and one of the most obvious is the grips; specifically there is almost no distance between the molded in detail of the Grip Medallions and the Grip screws. In fact they are so close on one side that it almost looks like they overlap. Now I could easily fill both in with bondo and re-countersink and etc. but what do I do to recreate the pattern for that circular section of the filled in screw detail.
Here is a picture of what I want the finished grip to look like as seen on the raw unpainted prop;
https://img0.etsystatic.com/114/0/11065 ... 6_9r97.jpg
so you all can see the pattern I want to duplicate. The area doesn't have to be perfect; I figure I will run something (what I don't know) over the bondo I put in the hole before it fully sets to recreate the pattern. Thanks for any help or suggestions I can get; they will be GREATLY Appreciated!!!
DarKev
1.) Make stamp using blessed Aves putty on a stick. Coat the surface with a just a bit of Pam and press the Aves to the surface in a flat area of the grip, thus duplicating the grip texture in the Aves. Let the Aves cure in place and pop it off.
2.) Sand the area around both the existing hole smooth and the new hole's location, thoroughly cleaning the sanding residue. Fill the hole with Aves, making sure to cover a sufficient area around the hole with Aves such that the new hole's location will be part of the Aves-covered area. Feather the edges of the fresh Aves with safety solvent or water so you won't need to sand later. While the Aves is still soft, use the stamp from step one to replicate the needed texture. If you mess up too badly, smooth it out and try again.
3.) After the Aves has cured, drill new hole to appropriate depth that accounts for screw head size and sink depth in step four. Centered in the hole, drill a smaller hole at the bottom of the little "well" you just drilled; make it the same diameter as the screw shank in step five.
4.) Go to the hardware store and get a cheap flathead screw of the appropriate size and appearance.
5.) Cut screw shank off just below the head such that it leaves a little peg you can place in the second hole drilled in step two.
6.) Place screw in hole.
7.) Offer burnt offering of three virgin Halcyon dropships to Aves for blessing your build with its presence.
![Pray [-o<](./images/smilies/pray.gif)
I hope this helps.
Kenny
Edit: Didn't see brother Rocketeer's post on the subject but maybe this entire process will be useful for some other prop enthusiast.
I don't think that's a casting defect you are trying to fix, rather that it's an accurate casting. The threaded insert opposing that grip retention screw falls right against the Pachmayr logo on those 64/66 model S&W revolvers, on those old-skool grips. It's larger than the screwhead and Pachmayr didn't relocate the medallion. Grip screw just fell where it may. Its location varies on different models, but the medallion is in the same relative place.
But if you want to eliminate the prop-accurate detail, just do as described above, make a stamp. Or pack it with putty and try to shape / blend it in before it sets.
But if you want to eliminate the prop-accurate detail, just do as described above, make a stamp. Or pack it with putty and try to shape / blend it in before it sets.
Signature Intentionally Left Blank
Thanks for the Info GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! However. sadly
I drilled the Screw and Medallion Details out already.
By the way does anyone know where one could pick up S and W revolver medallions of the same size???
DarKev
![Sad :(](./images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)
By the way does anyone know where one could pick up S and W revolver medallions of the same size???
DarKev
rayra wrote:I don't think that's a casting defect you are trying to fix, rather that it's an accurate casting. The threaded insert opposing that grip retention screw falls right against the Pachmayr logo on those 64/66 model S&W revolvers, on those old-skool grips. It's larger than the screwhead and Pachmayr didn't relocate the medallion. Grip screw just fell where it may. Its location varies on different models, but the medallion is in the same relative place.
But if you want to eliminate the prop-accurate detail, just do as described above, make a stamp. Or pack it with putty and try to shape / blend it in before it sets.
Why would one buy a "NEW" Multi_Million Dollar Management Information System that can't do processes that the old system did correctly?? Answer - Someone in Upper Level Administration got a "GIFT" (Unknown Author)
- Lt. Z0mBe
- Posts: 7311
- Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 1:46 pm
- Location: Balltown Kentucky, by God!
- Contact:
I don't know jack about that prop. BUT if you can find out what frame (J-frame, K-Frame, etc...) or model of revolver the prop used you can go on that one evil bay site. For example, if it came from a S&W 686 .357, you can look up medallions for a 686 or a K/L frame revolver.DarKev wrote:Thanks for the Info GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! However. sadlyI drilled the Screw and Medallion Details out already.
By the way does anyone know where one could pick up S and W revolver medallions of the same size???
DarKev
rayra wrote:I don't think that's a casting defect you are trying to fix, rather that it's an accurate casting. The threaded insert opposing that grip retention screw falls right against the Pachmayr logo on those 64/66 model S&W revolvers, on those old-skool grips. It's larger than the screwhead and Pachmayr didn't relocate the medallion. Grip screw just fell where it may. Its location varies on different models, but the medallion is in the same relative place.
But if you want to eliminate the prop-accurate detail, just do as described above, make a stamp. Or pack it with putty and try to shape / blend it in before it sets.
I hope this helps.
Kenny
The pin locations above and to the rear of the trigger opening and the shape of the trigger guard certainly look like a S&W to me and the sizing ought to be a K-frame. Pachmayr grips for it should have a Pachmayr logo / medallion.
Were it a Colt, the grip might have had a Colt medallion instead. Pachmayr made them both ways IIRC. 1970s 80s.
Colts don't have pins in those areas.
here's a similar Pachmayr grip on a Ruger GP100(?), pictured just for the clear view of the Pachmayr medallion.
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/image440.jpg
If you just want the medallion(s), you can find any old packmayr grip on armslist or gunbroker or ebay. I don't know if the medallions can be purchased separately. An old grip should be well under $20.
By an amazing coincidence, I have a K-frame 6xx S&W revolver with a Pachmayr grip. Funny I never noticed that prop was a revolver. Liked the show, own the DVDs. Seeing them muzzle on I always figured it was a modified semi- pistol, the angles and shape reminded me of 3rd-gen S&W pistols. Never noticed the revolver grip shape until now / here
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v95/r ... zb8bwt.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v95/r ... wjoesv.jpg.
[/img]
Were it a Colt, the grip might have had a Colt medallion instead. Pachmayr made them both ways IIRC. 1970s 80s.
Colts don't have pins in those areas.
here's a similar Pachmayr grip on a Ruger GP100(?), pictured just for the clear view of the Pachmayr medallion.
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/image440.jpg
If you just want the medallion(s), you can find any old packmayr grip on armslist or gunbroker or ebay. I don't know if the medallions can be purchased separately. An old grip should be well under $20.
By an amazing coincidence, I have a K-frame 6xx S&W revolver with a Pachmayr grip. Funny I never noticed that prop was a revolver. Liked the show, own the DVDs. Seeing them muzzle on I always figured it was a modified semi- pistol, the angles and shape reminded me of 3rd-gen S&W pistols. Never noticed the revolver grip shape until now / here
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v95/r ... zb8bwt.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v95/r ... wjoesv.jpg.
[/img]
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