Connecting power to the model

Ask and answer questions, share tips and resources for installing lighting and other electronics in your models.

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TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan
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Connecting power to the model

Post by TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan » Wed Mar 08, 2017 11:09 pm

So the most common way of lighting a model, it seems, is to have the wires coming through the stand and the power located under the base. However, I have the old version of the 1:700 Andromeda from Yamato and it has a rather clever way of powering it. The stand has metal contacts and the hole on the bottom of the ship has corresponding contacts so that the model can be removed from its stand without wires hanging everywhere.

The model is made for lighting the engines and the wave motion cannon. What I want to learn how to do is have a 555 chip controlling blinking navigation lights and another 555 that makes the wave dual motion cannons fade on for a while and then fade off for a longer while. I've seen videos on how to do this on Youtube so I'd like to try it out.

Most people have the chips and such in the base, right? If I am to go forward with this model's lighting, I think I would have the chips sealed away inside the model's hull.

I am also thinking about whether I could come up with such metal contacts to make any model mounted onto its stand through contacts, so that it can be removed from the stand. Of course, it would depend case-by-case with the model as to its feasibility of having the chips inside the model.

Thoughts, comments, suggestions? I am new to all of this. Input would be much appreciated. Thanks.

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Rocketeer
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Post by Rocketeer » Thu Mar 09, 2017 12:46 pm

I have used brass tubing and rod to make contacts. Two brass tubes in the model, two brass rods coming out of the base.

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z256 ... CN2622.jpg

...or the other way around: A couple brass rods sticking out of the model, fitting into a couple brass tube sockets in the base. It's inside the foot, which is in the background of this pic:

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z256 ... 1wa0js.jpg

...which has the additional advantage of giving you a way to hold the model (i.e, holding it by the rods) while doing final assembly.

On my latest project, I'm using the (brass tube) stand to get power to it. The outer square tube carries the load and acts as one half of the electrical connection, and a brass tube/rod pin and socket inside it acts as the other half. Here's the socket in the model (under construction):

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z256 ... rsxrsc.jpg

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TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan
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Post by TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan » Thu Mar 16, 2017 1:23 am

I think I might use these jumper connectors to light up models. I can cut out a small hole on the bottom of the model (or have it inside the stand), cut one of these in half, secure the female end into the hole on the bottom of the model, and have the male end go up and attach to it. This way, a model can be removed from its stand and handled if necessary, whether it is being transported or simply being admired.

Sloucher
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Post by Sloucher » Thu Mar 16, 2017 8:07 am

Or you could use something like this, then you wouldn't have to cut the connectors in half and you could make the connections polarised (ie one conection male to female and the other female to male).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M133X6U?psc=1
WiredFX

Small Lighting and Effects UK

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naoto
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Post by naoto » Thu Mar 16, 2017 11:14 am

How 'bout a headphone jack and plug for electrical connection?
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DocTor
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Post by DocTor » Thu Mar 16, 2017 11:47 am

naoto wrote:How 'bout a headphone jack and plug for electrical connection?
Would that work? It would certainly make a secure yet quick release connection.

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Rocketeer
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Post by Rocketeer » Thu Mar 16, 2017 12:06 pm

DocTor wrote:
naoto wrote:How 'bout a headphone jack and plug for electrical connection?
Would that work? It would certainly make a secure yet quick release connection.
Oh, yeah, it'd work fine. I've used headphone jacks to transmit power on models and on full-size cars.

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TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan
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Post by TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan » Thu Mar 16, 2017 6:37 pm

Sloucher wrote:Or you could use something like this, then you wouldn't have to cut the connectors in half and you could make the connections polarised (ie one conection male to female and the other female to male).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M133X6U?psc=1
I can already get those easily at akizukidenshi.com. What I meant by cutting them in half was to cut it in half lengthways, ie the cord. Then I'd solder the power wires from the battery onto the male end while the female end would be implanted into the model.

As for the headphone jack, where would the plus and minus go? I can't visualize that.

DocTor
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Post by DocTor » Thu Mar 16, 2017 7:00 pm

TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan wrote:
As for the headphone jack, where would the plus and minus go? I can't visualize that.
me neither

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naoto
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Post by naoto » Thu Mar 16, 2017 8:35 pm

DocTor wrote:
TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan wrote:
As for the headphone jack, where would the plus and minus go? I can't visualize that.
me neither
If you look closely at the headphone plug, you'll notice that the metal parts are divided into distinct sections separated by a narrow bands of a different material. Mono plug would have a tip and sleeve portion (+/-). Stereo would have three sections -- tip, ring and sleeve (left / right / ground). Plugs for use with telephone is apt to have four (left / right / microphone / ground ). See link below:
http://www.circuitbasics.com/how-to-hac ... hone-jack/
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