Gunze Primer?

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mbuk77
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Gunze Primer?

Post by mbuk77 »

DoGunze Sangyo produce any primers that are suitable with the Mr Hobby Aqueous paints (on plastic)? Preferably something in an aerosol would be good.

Any advice please?

Alternatively can I just use Tamiya rattle can primer?

Thanks.
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Kylwell
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Post by Kylwell »

The Mr. Surfacer line is available in a spray can. Or you can use the Tamiya, both are excellent primers and painting over them with Mr. Hobby Aqueous paints won't be a problem.
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USSARCADIA
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Post by USSARCADIA »

I've switched to Tamiya as I can't find the Gunze stuff anywhere close anymore. It works fine.
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Wug
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Post by Wug »

Hi USSARCADIA,

Can you wipe off dried Tamiya primer with 99% isopropyl alcohol? The ability to fill seams without sanding is one of the main reasons to use Mr. Surfacer.

Thanks,

Mike
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Post by seam-filler »

As you're in the UK I'd point you to Halford's primers. They are acrylic based and compatible with Mr Hobby Aqueous, Tamiya acrylic, Citadel - in fact almost any acrylic or enamel paint you'd care to metion.

And about 1/3 the cost of any "hobby" primer. I use the grey and white primers all the time. The "Plastic Filler" primer works like Mr Surfacer, but is a tiny fraction of the cost.
"I'd just like to say that building large smooth-skinned models should be avoided at all costs. I now see why people want to stick kit-parts all over their designs as it covers up a lot of problems." - David Sisson
USSARCADIA
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Post by USSARCADIA »

Wug wrote:Hi USSARCADIA,

Can you wipe off dried Tamiya primer with 99% isopropyl alcohol? The ability to fill seams without sanding is one of the main reasons to use Mr. Surfacer.

Thanks,

Mike
Sorry, couldn't tell you. I've never tried as I don't use it for seams. I mainly use it because it goes on smooth and doesn't "fuzz up" in the detail areas.
Did you eat your Chocolate Frosted Sugar Bombs this morning?
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Kylwell
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Post by Kylwell »

Wug wrote:Hi USSARCADIA,

Can you wipe off dried Tamiya primer with 99% isopropyl alcohol? The ability to fill seams without sanding is one of the main reasons to use Mr. Surfacer.

Thanks,

Mike
No, and last time I check you can't do that with Mr. Surfacer once dried either.
Though I could be warmed. I usually just worked it with some lacquer thinner, which will take it off.
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Wug
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Post by Wug »

Hi Kylwell,

I usually apply Mr. Surfacer to seams with a toothpick and let it dry overnight. I wipe off the excess with a coffee filter soaked in 91% or 99% isopropyl alcohol. At 70% regular rubbing alcohol isn't strong enough to remove Mr.Surfacer.

I can only remember this technique failing once. The Mr. Surfacer might have set for too long or it might have been too thick.

Mike
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Kylwell
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Post by Kylwell »

That is probably why I've never gotten the alcohol method to work, not a high enough %.

Interesting...
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mbuk77
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Post by mbuk77 »

seam-filler wrote:As you're in the UK I'd point you to Halford's primers. They are acrylic based and compatible with Mr Hobby Aqueous, Tamiya acrylic, Citadel - in fact almost any acrylic or enamel paint you'd care to metion.

And about 1/3 the cost of any "hobby" primer. I use the grey and white primers all the time. The "Plastic Filler" primer works like Mr Surfacer, but is a tiny fraction of the cost.
I'm not actually in the UK- I recently returned to my home country of New Zealand! So unfortunately there's no Halfords for me anymore!
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Post by seam-filler »

Sorry 'bout that - but you're details say "Location: UK", which kinda made me make an assumption or two. :)
"I'd just like to say that building large smooth-skinned models should be avoided at all costs. I now see why people want to stick kit-parts all over their designs as it covers up a lot of problems." - David Sisson
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