Must you always add a primer coat before finishing coats?

muir318 · Post by **muir318** » Sat Mar 10, 2012 2:57 pm

Hello guys.

As i have said before in posts i am new to modeling.
I thought i would ask if you always have to add a primer coat to models before adding the finishing coat or coats!?
I am building star wars specific kits as i am a big fan so any help/info would be great

Thanks in advace for answers

Scott Hasty · Post by **Scott Hasty** » Sat Mar 10, 2012 3:53 pm

It is not a must, but something I do. Primarily the primer coat will show any imperfections on the surface. If you use acrylics (as I am doing more and more), I always prime with an enamel to prepare the surface. Additionally if I paint an acrylic coat, I always topcoat with Future. That way there is little chance of pulling up the acrylic when masking...

delong1701 · Post by **delong1701** » Sat Mar 10, 2012 7:27 pm

If you want just an "OK" model you don't. But if you want a superb model, then heck yes you need primer. You also need to "sandwich" the decals between layers of clear coat. Trust me, the old adage "the devil is in the details," is true.

Glorfindel · Post by **Glorfindel** » Sat Mar 17, 2012 10:34 pm

Like Scott said a primer coat will reveal surface imperfections during the construction stage of your build. That's the time to go over everything with a close eye and correct issues that can mar your finish coats. Not everyone does it, and that's OK, but the people that do....well their models in most cases do look that much better. Just my opinion.

Daft Vader · Post by **Daft Vader** » Wed Jan 09, 2013 6:50 pm

Hai,I'm a total paint noob so after a quick search i found this old topic and i'd like to ask a question concerning priming before painting...
I understand that primer is used to help the paint adhere to my model but do i really need to sand the primer and what is the purpose of sanding the primer before applying the paint?
would like a smooth finish on my model which will be shot with acrylic paint and i intend on using future for decal placement with a dullcoat to finish the model off with.
I'm just unsure wether to sand or not.
Thanks

eeun · Post by **eeun** » Thu Jan 10, 2013 6:34 pm

You can achieve a smoother finish if you sand the primer, if that's what your model needs. I rarely sand it except where its shown flaws that need correcting.

dizzyfugu · Post by **dizzyfugu** » Fri Jan 11, 2013 5:54 am

IMHO, primer makes sense on large scale models and when you have smooth surfaces. On typical small-scale vehicles (aircraft, edgy space ships) it is not necessary.

Two uses are very important, though:

- as already mentioned, primer reveals surface imperfections, better than anything else, and a very thin coat is enough. Highly recommended e .g. on large scale figures or car bodies and the like, where a smooth and perfect surface is a must

- a coat of primer is IMHO also a must if you want to paint a kit in light or bright colors, e .g. white, yellow and also red. Applying these without a light undercoat will end up messy and/or look poor

- primer also enhances paint adhesion to the material below, so I'd recommend a (thin) coat on resin kits, metal parts or vinyl.

Personally, I use a grey acryllic primer (from a rattle can) in most cases, intended for car painting. As a specific model product, the Tamiya spray primer is top notch. Very fine, and easy to dose and apply from its spray can.

Wet-sanding a primed surface with a very high grit sand paper or sanding mesh before adding a paint coat is recommended, esp. when you apply several coats of primer and when you want a glossy final finish. With matt paints, it's not that tragic and can even add up to the overall look (e .g. on a tank). There still are "bombs", more than can be seen...

As a side note, there's another material, called a filler. That's also a primer spray, but actually a very thin putty for large surfaces which is sprayed on just like a primer. It creates some more volume than a primer paint and can be wet sanded, for a VERY smooth surface, if required. It is very handy if you have larger, even surfaces to even out, again an option for figures or car bodies.

It's IMHO best to get some primer paint and make some trials with application before you tackle a real model. Esp. when you use a rattle can, the proper spraying technique is vital for the result!

Daft Vader · Post by **Daft Vader** » Sat Jan 12, 2013 1:22 pm

Thanks for your input guys.
For the record its the 350 scale enterprise that i'm in the process of building.I haven't built any model since i was a young lad but after seeing this model on youtube i just had to have it...

Post by **TER-OR** » Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:56 pm

If it's a good styrene kit which doesn't have a lot of filler, photoetch etc. you don't need primer. Resin I always prime, and I love the Gunze-Sangyo 1000 or 1200 because it's mirror smooth.

Another tip you'll pick up looking at the forums is sealing coats before complex masking. I like a light coat of Future to protect layers.

Wug · Post by **Wug** » Wed Jan 16, 2013 2:47 am

To prime I airbrush with Mr. Surfacer thinned with Mr. Thinner.

However there's a case against priming. One of the most talented and productive aircraft modelers around here doesn't prime. When he's finished airbrushing a model he shoots whatever paint he has left along the seams and problem areas of another model he has under construction. For most of his 40+ years of modeling he used enamels from Testors, Model Master and Humbrol. He might be migrating to acrylics now. By eliminating a step he reduces the time spent on a build and the number of things that can go wrong. I might have tried this on a model when I got back into modeling. Since I didn't know what I was doing back then I didn't give it a fair chance.

Daft Vader · Post by **Daft Vader** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 7:54 am

Thanks for the hint Ter ror.
I have been trawling through the forums since november researching as much as i can and i'm well aware of the benefits of using future.i bought a bottle last week and have used it with a brush on the shuttlecraft that came with the model for the purpose of decaling.
I have to say the information i've gathered from this site so far has been invaluable and without this forum i probably would never have had the confidence to take on the build.I'm waiting for the lights to arrive from Trekmodeler any day now so at the moment i'm painting up the shuttlebay sub assembly with an airbrush but never considered using future as a masking barrier between the tape and paint coat.Another hint i shall take onboard.
Anyway thanks again for your help guys,having spent a considerable amount of money on this model so far i'd hate to mess it up and whilst i might not end with the "perfect" model i'm pretty happy with how its going so far...

Post by **TER-OR** » Mon Jan 28, 2013 11:32 am

That's why we're here. And remember - practice! Don't make mistakes on your big project - try new techniques with old decals or misprints and a kit you can strip again.

If you're using aftermarket decals try emailing the guys, they may have some misprints they can send you. I've got sheets from Wonderfest shows from a couple of the better-known aftermarket guys which help. They're usually very nice about such requests. Then get some cheap, crappy kits, paint them how you want to paint your subject (at least base coats etc) and practice.