What the frak?!?!? Paint/ink compatibility?

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Lord Darth Beavis
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What the frak?!?!? Paint/ink compatibility?

Post by Lord Darth Beavis »

Hey, gang, just had a really weird experience. I was trying some alcohol-based ink as a wash on some Tamiya and Gunze acrylics, and suddenly, the paints were lifting right off the parts.

What did I do wrong? The paints had been cured for several weeks (hey, I'm slow...sue me! :mrgreen: ) Should I have Futured the parts first? Or, do I have to go against my newly-green(ish) trends, and shoot the parts with Testor's clear gloss?

Sign me, "Confused" :?
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Post by Rogviler »

Putting a coat of Future on before doing a wash is always a good idea. Pretty much the only thing that really takes it off is ammonia, so it holds up to other solvents pretty well usually.

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Re: What the frak?!?!? Paint/ink compatibility?

Post by Stu Pidasso »

Lord Darth Beavis wrote:Sign me, "Confused" :?
:ptl:



Sorry, dude, I'm no help. It's gotta be a chemical reaction, though...
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Post by kenlilly106 »

Alcohol (the rubbing/isopropyl kind) will remove Future as well, if the inks are thinned with this type they'll either eat through it or eat into it enough to permanently stain/mix with it.

Either you'll need to coat the acrylics with something that the alcohol based inks won't affect, or use water based inks.

Ken
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Post by Mark Yungblut »

The alcohol acted as a thinner and effected the Tamiya paint. I would suggest a laquer based clear coat before washing with thinned inks like that. Or try using an oil wash instead.

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Post by Lord Darth Beavis »

Good suggestion, Mark, but I'm trying to get away from lacquers, and oils.

2 questions:

1) Can anybody recommend a line of water-based inks? I have some Dr. Ph. Martin's inks and some alcohol-based stamping inks (the name eludes me). Since they are alcohol-based, that ain't gonna work

B) Would water-based oils work the same, or am I going to run into other problems?

And actually, Jimi, "Confused" is my normal state. This would qualify as, "baffled"!
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Post by photoguy »

I've used Liquitex inks over Tamiya acrylic paint with very nice results. It also thins very nicely with Liquitex or Createx airbrush medium and runs through an airbrush very nicely.
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Post by Lord Darth Beavis »

Cool, PG, I'll have to check them out. I think Hobby Lobby has Liquitex inks.
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Post by seam-filler »

As well a Liquitex, Daler Rowney do acrylc inks. I've never had a problem with these and Tamiya paints.
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Post by Mark Yungblut »

Just beware of one thing about artist's inks. Many of them are not light fast or will change color if exposed to bright light for protracted lengths of time.

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Post by Kylwell »

seam-filler wrote:As well a Liquitex, Daler Rowney do acrylc inks. I've never had a problem with these and Tamiya paints.
I've worked with the Daler-Rowney inks, some beautiful stuff and apparently fairly light-fast.
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Post by Lord Darth Beavis »

Looks like I'm on the search for Daler-Rowney inks, then...
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Post by Lord Darth Beavis »

Anybody used the Liquitex acrylic inks? They seem to have a huge variety, and I know I've seen them at Hobby Lobby.
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Post by TER-OR »

Get some transparent watercolors, some liquitex flo-aid, some liquitex slo-dri and make a waterbased wash. Use this over a Future-coated color.

This is covered in the sticky Washes thread.

Alcohol will trash most acrylic paints and Future. Ink is permanent, and the watercolors are not.
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Post by Lord Darth Beavis »

Okay, Ter. I have a tube of Payne's gray, and I think burnt umber and Vandyke brown. I have the Flo-Aid. Gonna have to get some Slo-Dri.

Any other watercolors you'd recommend?

Anybody interested in some alcohol-based inks, see me at WF... :P
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Post by TER-OR »

Other colors are only required for special purposes. I bought a 6-pack of inks and a multi pack of transparent watercolors a few years back. They'll last a long time....

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Post by Romulan Spy »

Try Windex as a thinner. May or may not be compatible with your particular inks, but it will be a bit gentler on the underlying paint. Worth a try.
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Post by ignatz »

Tamiya is particularly sensitive, I find. The stuff would lift off whereas if I used Vallejo or Model Master, it'll be fine. Definitely I think it's the alcohol solvent in the ink. I've used FW inks over acrylics with no problem. But then again, I like to seal with Dullcoat between steps.
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Post by TER-OR »

Windex over Gunze or Tamiya or Future is BAD. It's a great thinner/stripper for the above, though.
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Post by Lord Darth Beavis »

I can agree with using Windex as a stripper. Dropped the figure in a tub of Windex, and a day later, no paint!
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* - "America" is a registered trademark of U.S. Corporations.
** - No actual freedoms are inferred or implied.
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