The Frugal Airbrusher

This is the place to get answers about painting, weathering and other aspects of finishing a model.

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Lt. Z0mBe
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Post by Lt. Z0mBe » Sat Mar 27, 2010 4:33 pm

I would blame it on the Windex Advanced, as it is propylene glycol, a type of alcohol with a very, very low surface tension; it excels as an emulsifier and, I bet, it emulsified the little acrylic polymers a bit too much and leaving not much for the pigment to grab hold of. In effect, you greatly increased your alcohol load. You need good old fashioned Windex with ammonia. Ammonia allows the latex/acrylic polymers to stay soft and stretchy, like little balls of snot (seriously!) while they're emulsified, and thus carry pigment better.

Propylene glycol is used in a lot of your hand soaps and deodorants and medicines for its ability to emulsify just about anything, including body oils and medications.

Also, as I said early in the thread, this method will not work without straining. That's another thing you should keep in mind when doing this; when you're buying hobby grade paints, a lot of what you're paying for is the extra pigment grinding. The straining sifts the too coarse stuff out. But, you should strain the cheap stuff and the good stuff anyway, as you will be amazed at the difference it makes.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

www.sigmalabsinc.com


Onward, proud eagle, to thee the cloud must yield.

takos
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Thanks for the reply

Post by takos » Sun Mar 28, 2010 6:30 am

I did strain the mix, I have a strainer like the one you mention that I got from Micro Mark 20 years ago, though I only have one, it is very very fine but I'm not sure it is the finest.I used to use it for straining my Armory paints (really thick paints meant for figures) prior to airbrushing them. Anyway I stained the mix after the concoction was made, should I have strained the paint prior to adding the other ingredients???

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Lt. Z0mBe
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Re: Thanks for the reply

Post by Lt. Z0mBe » Sun Mar 28, 2010 9:34 pm

takos wrote:I did strain the mix, I have a strainer like the one you mention that I got from Micro Mark 20 years ago, though I only have one, it is very very fine but I'm not sure it is the finest.I used to use it for straining my Armory paints (really thick paints meant for figures) prior to airbrushing them. Anyway I stained the mix after the concoction was made, should I have strained the paint prior to adding the other ingredients???
No, you did fine. Mix and then strain. I just wasn't sure you'd done that based on your post. That's what I get for assuming. :oops:

Kenny

www.sigmalabsinc.com


Onward, proud eagle, to thee the cloud must yield.

takos
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Still no luck

Post by takos » Thu Apr 01, 2010 7:36 am

Went out and bought Windex original and mixed the same concoction, same results I would get some areas bubling up and popping like boiling tar and the underlayer would show through these portholes. Got up this morning and tried with just Future, thinned to milk like consistancy, straimed and sprayed less than 20 psi, same thing. Then make a thin mix with just windex, wouldn't go through the strainer so added some 91% isopropyl alcohol, strained and shot though the airbrush, no bubbles, but the pigments started separating in the paint cup. So I guess the future is necessary to hold the pigments in solution, but why does it cause the bubbling, did they change the formulation??? It was a new bottle

penguinpc
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Post by penguinpc » Wed Jun 26, 2013 3:20 pm

When using the acrylic craft paint, what is the best thing to clean the air brush with?

Thanks!

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Joseph Osborn
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Post by Joseph Osborn » Wed Jun 26, 2013 9:33 pm

penguinpc wrote:When using the acrylic craft paint, what is the best thing to clean the air brush with?

Thanks!
If you are cheap, plain water mixed with a little ammonia or windex. If you want to use a commercial product, Createx airbrush cleaner works well and is economical. Lacquer thinner works for dried paint, too.

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