Paint Removal.

This is the place to get answers about painting, weathering and other aspects of finishing a model.

Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators

Thomas E. Johnson
Posts: 2821
Joined: Fri Jan 23, 2004 10:56 pm
Location: Up The Street From Uncle Sam's House

Post by Thomas E. Johnson »

Is there an "off the shelf" brand in a spray can that I can go to some place like Lowes or Home Depot to get, that works very fast (like in 30 minutes) at removing paint with a minimum amount of scrubbing, but won't effect the spot glazing putty and superglue thats holding all the fiberglass and resin parts together?
Thomas E. Johnson
marconiusrex24
Posts: 15
Joined: Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:31 pm
Location: Los Angeles, CA

Remove paint safely from clear styrene

Post by marconiusrex24 »

I may have just missed it...but did anyone answer the question about removing paint from clear styrene? I have a large clear styrene piece that I want to remove Tamiya Spray paint, Tamiya acryic paint and Testors enamel paint...bascially need to start over.


What is the best product to use to remove the paint without melting the styrene or jeaporizing the transparency of the clear acryilic?

Thanks.

Mark
"I compute you well"
Saturn
Posts: 6590
Joined: Sat Jul 13, 2002 9:06 pm
Location: Oklahoma City, OK

Post by Saturn »

Castrol Super Clean (or just Super Clean) auto degreaser works without melting/crazing clear styrene.
"Of all the chili that I've eaten in my travels, this has the most.......Cumin."
User avatar
Butters
Posts: 4505
Joined: Tue Jul 01, 2003 1:54 am
Location: Moonbeam Land

Post by Butters »

I need to strip acrlyic off of a resin model I have. What can I use that will take off the acrlyic and not attack the resin?
There is a solution to every problem. Sometimes it's just C4.

Fine. I got an Avatar. Happy?
Andrew Gorman
Posts: 2697
Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 4:56 pm
Location: Escaped from darkest suburbia!

Post by Andrew Gorman »

Ammonia should do the trick, or any other paint stripper.
User avatar
PetarB
Posts: 2950
Joined: Mon Nov 27, 2006 8:24 pm
Contact:

Post by PetarB »

I need to remove lacquer from resin. I'm leery of using lacquer thinner to do this, as I'm not sure if it will attack the resin. I often use Easy-Off for acrylics but it sounds like it's not so good for lacquers?
Any suggestions?
jafo
Posts: 1210
Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:42 pm
Location: Michigan

Post by jafo »

someone did a test on the most common ones
hope this helps
http://www.bonediggers.com/1-3/strip/strip.html
User avatar
starmanmm
Posts: 2539
Joined: Sat Jul 13, 2002 12:59 am
Location: New Bedford, MA

Post by starmanmm »

I have an old AMT D7 that I would like to strip.

The paint used was Floquil RR paint (painted the kit 20 plus years ago).

Recommendations as to what to strip it with?
jafo
Posts: 1210
Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:42 pm
Location: Michigan

Post by jafo »

The post right above yours has a link
I think that will answer your question.
User avatar
starmanmm
Posts: 2539
Joined: Sat Jul 13, 2002 12:59 am
Location: New Bedford, MA

Post by starmanmm »

Did look at it first.

Failed to notice my type of paint being referenced, which is why I stated the paint on my kit.

Have used EO in the past on acrylic... but I guess that I will use it also on this kit.
User avatar
Joseph Osborn
Posts: 1323
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 9:22 pm
Location: Alabamastan
Contact:

Post by Joseph Osborn »

starmanmm wrote:I have an old AMT D7 that I would like to strip.

The paint used was Floquil RR paint (painted the kit 20 plus years ago).

Recommendations as to what to strip it with?
That's the old lacquer paint, right? I'd try Castrol Super Clean and if that didn't work, maybe some brake fluid. If you can still find the old Easy-Off oven cleaner that eats your skin and kills you with its fumes, try that. Any of these three won't hurt the styrene (much).

I have some soy-based screen cleaner that is meant to clean solvent-based screen printing ink. It's called "Wash Away" from Franmar. It works great on lacquer ink, so I'll try it on some lacquer paint soon and report the results.
User avatar
starmanmm
Posts: 2539
Joined: Sat Jul 13, 2002 12:59 am
Location: New Bedford, MA

Post by starmanmm »

Yeah, it is the old lacquer paint.

Thanks to all for the suggestions.
User avatar
Kylwell
Moderator
Posts: 29643
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 9:25 pm
Location: Lakewood, CO
Contact:

Post by Kylwell »

Just wanted to add, if you're using Simple Green to strip parts remove all the metal part before the dunk. Simple Green will blacken them over time, corrodes some metal types and generally makes a mess of things. Stripped the zinc off a piece of galvanized steel.
Abolish Alliteration
jafo
Posts: 1210
Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:42 pm
Location: Michigan

Post by jafo »

all work well except on tamiya spray, i have found nothing works except laquer thinner which is too hot
if anyone else has an idea please let me know
User avatar
starmanmm
Posts: 2539
Joined: Sat Jul 13, 2002 12:59 am
Location: New Bedford, MA

Post by starmanmm »

Ya got me on that one. :?
"Things fall apart... It's Scientific" Talking Heads
User avatar
rallymodeller
Posts: 3776
Joined: Mon Mar 17, 2003 8:06 pm
Location: Cornering at over 1g

Post by rallymodeller »

Got a weird one I'll throw in the ring for paint stripping, but bear in mind it comes with some caveats:

Automotive brake fluid. The thing about brake fluid is that once the bottle is opened, it must be used right away or it is no longer good for putting in your brake system. You see, it's hydrophilic and will absorb moisture out of the air -- increasing its compressibility and will also rust your brake system out from the inside. I do brakes a lot -- I change the pads on my racer at least twice a year and always have some left over.

However, one of its notorious side effects is that it will literally eat the paint right off your car if spilled on the bodywork. Knowing this, I tried it on an old model some years ago -- worked awesome! It's also the best thing I have found for stripping chrome off styrene. It is the best thing I have found for old paint -- the Nuclear Option when nothing else works.

Now for the caution part. Mainly, treat it as you would oven cleaner. Also:

1: NEVER use it on AMT plastic. For some reason it does weird things to the formulation AMT uses. I was stripping the chrome off an AMT Datsun 510 and it caused the plastic to curl up as if it had been heated.

2: ALWAYS wear gloves. As it absorbs water, it heats up. You can feel this -- I know this from working on real cars.

3. Soaking works best, but keep an eye on it. Works as fast as oven cleaner, sometimes faster depending on the paint. Use a PET container or something else non-reactive to contain the fluid.

4. SCRUB the part with soap and water and let completely dry (24+ hours) before repainting. It will come back and bite you after, again like oven cleaner.

4. NEVER use on metal. Metal absorbs the brake fluid and paint will never stick right again.

I have used it for spot removal with good results. Just be sure to corral it somehow (taping the area or whatever). Let it sit until it begins to peel, then scrub with a toothbrush under running water. Clean thoroughly then repaint.

Because it can be finicky, test it first
Haven't tried it with resin, but I can't see why it would be a problem.
--Jeremy

"I'm not a geek, I'm a specialist." -- Sgt. Sousuke Sagara, Full Metal Panic
Dennis S.
Posts: 8
Joined: Fri Dec 17, 2010 12:59 pm

Desolving Lacquer

Post by Dennis S. »

Watch out when you do panel lining not to use Testors enamel thinner. I found out by accident that Testors enamel thinner takes off all brands of laquer. It completely desolved the Tamiya Paint and the Model Master Lacquer clearcoat I used to protect it. I had to repaint the effected areas of my Gundam. Several hours of work down the drain.:evil:
User avatar
Oroka
Posts: 148
Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2010 4:46 pm
Location: Deep South Canuckastan

Post by Oroka »

I have used 99% Isopropyl Alcohol, left to soak for a day or so, and scrubbed with a tooth brush.

I have also used 'Oxyclean' stain removing treatment in water. Seems to work okay, less fumes than the alcohol.
Grouncontrol
Posts: 271
Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 8:01 pm

Post by Grouncontrol »

I've just read through these posts and have only one question- I am working on a pl 1/350 enterprise and am unhappy with my paint job on the VIP lounge and would like to strip it down and repaint it. My question is, I used both acrylic and enamel paints and am wondering if soaking the part in brake fluid will remove both kinds of paint.
Since my customary farewell would appear oddly self-serving; I shall simply say, good luck.

I'm married. That's what being married means. It means you sleep together, but you can't get none!
(Martin Lawrence in Bad Boys)
lzqqqq
Banned
Posts: 8
Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2011 2:22 am

Post by lzqqqq »

Moderator zapped Spambot links.
ulvdemon
Posts: 527
Joined: Thu Sep 09, 2010 9:10 am
Location: Alpharetta, GA

Post by ulvdemon »

I can definitely say that Simple green worked. Had issues stripping the paint off of my AMT/Ertl MF. Oven cleaner took off most of it but the area that was really caked on with 3 different colors layered on the back end. Soaked it with some Simple Green and used a "chisel" once it was softened up to remoev the paint. Have most of the paint off now, just some small spots that need to be worked on and then cleaned.
Current build: 1/32 Hasegawa F6F-5 Hellcat

Completed: 1/48 Hasegawa F-16CM<,1/48 Revell Mig-21PFM, 1/48 Revell/Monogram AH-64A, Revell/Monogram 1/48 F-14D, AMT 1/420 USS Defiant, AMT 1/650(?) USS Enterprise, 1/72 Bandai VF-1J, AMT 1/537 USS Reliant, Academy 1/35 M1-A1 Abrams, Academy 1/48 F-86F30, Linbergh's USS Gato
User avatar
Captain Riker
Posts: 1638
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2009 12:09 pm
Location: New Jersey

Post by Captain Riker »

I'm still confused so ill risk the dumb question.

I used a Tayima Lacquer paint on model and it wouldn't cover after several coats and dimpled in some areas. I figured the parts weren't clean enough so I want to strip and try again.

Simple Green didn't do anything.

Will easy off work? Do I have to use the skin pealing super clean stuff? I read mineral spirits will work too. It's a resin kit.

Thanks,
ulvdemon
Posts: 527
Joined: Thu Sep 09, 2010 9:10 am
Location: Alpharetta, GA

Post by ulvdemon »

Easy off should do it, but I will definitely stress the need to wear gloves, old clothes, and eye protection. That stuff can be nasty on the skin. The Simple Green did well on most of the paint except for the Krylon white on my model.

Before:
http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y38 ... 8857a9.jpg

After:
http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y38 ... a3fd6a.jpg
Current build: 1/32 Hasegawa F6F-5 Hellcat

Completed: 1/48 Hasegawa F-16CM<,1/48 Revell Mig-21PFM, 1/48 Revell/Monogram AH-64A, Revell/Monogram 1/48 F-14D, AMT 1/420 USS Defiant, AMT 1/650(?) USS Enterprise, 1/72 Bandai VF-1J, AMT 1/537 USS Reliant, Academy 1/35 M1-A1 Abrams, Academy 1/48 F-86F30, Linbergh's USS Gato
nanook177
Posts: 174
Joined: Sat Sep 02, 2006 12:52 pm

Post by nanook177 »

I don't know if this is the right thread, but what would be a good brush to remove softened paint. I've had my Excelsior soaking for a week in Simple Green and the paint is now soft enough to remove with a fingernail, which I was able to do for a while. However, it would be so much easier with a brush that was stiff enough to remove the paint but soft enough to not hurt the styrene. Suggestions?
User avatar
Kylwell
Moderator
Posts: 29643
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 9:25 pm
Location: Lakewood, CO
Contact:

Post by Kylwell »

Old toothbrush and a larger plastic bristled brush.
Abolish Alliteration
User avatar
crowe-t
Posts: 1177
Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2009 5:55 pm
Location: Satellite Of Love

Post by crowe-t »

Will 91% Isopropyl Alcohol remove primer, Tamiya Fine Surface Primer in particular?

Will 91% Isopropyl Alcohol soften or remove glued joints?
User avatar
crowe-t
Posts: 1177
Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2009 5:55 pm
Location: Satellite Of Love

Post by crowe-t »

I tested 91% Isopropyl Alcohol on the Tamiya Fine Surface Primer and it worked nicely.

I had used Super Clean a while ago to remove paint and it did not remove the Tamiya primer. Super Clean is also toxic.

91% Isopropyl Alcohol is definitely the way to go. The smell isn't bad at all and it goes away very quickly. It seems to remove all paints including Tamiya primer and doesn't harm anything.

I'll never use Super Clean again to remove paint.
User avatar
Richard Baker
Posts: 16149
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 10:23 am
Location: Warrior, Alabama

Re: Paint Removal.

Post by Richard Baker »

Silver https://imgur.com/gallery/RXi01AK

Need to strip this enamel off the car body. My son had an issue with the rattlecan and the complex body shape has bubbles in the crevasses. This is a base coat for a clear candy apple red finish.

I have read though this thread and while there is a lot of info here there is little distinction begween enamel and acrylic paints. I dont want to harm the plastic, there is however no putty involved, just styrene.

Simple green?
"The future is not what it used to be" - G'Kar

Things go wrong and bad things happen- that is just the way the world is-
It is how you deal with it that tells the world who you truly are.

“Censorship is telling a man he can’t have a steak just because a baby can’t chew it.” -Mark Twain

Deviant Art Gallery-
http://phaedrus-3.deviantart.com/
outlander
Posts: 131
Joined: Wed Oct 21, 2009 1:56 pm
Location: None of your nosiness!

Re: Paint Removal.

Post by outlander »

I guess that I'll have to use acetone since the purple power works a TINY bit but not enough to justify waiting for it and the Easy Off just sits on the surface. I'll inform you all that this is the top of the Caddilac that I'm re-starting from 1999. I doubt that the paint on there is simply going to vanish in 20 minutes or so. Maybe I'll just paint over what's there as it's only discoloured but mostly white.
It's a Pain In The Ass - not pita! Pita is what all the morons keep calling "flatbread"!
outlander
Posts: 131
Joined: Wed Oct 21, 2009 1:56 pm
Location: None of your nosiness!

Re: Paint Removal.

Post by outlander »

Richard Baker wrote: Sat Sep 12, 2020 7:47 pm Silver https://imgur.com/gallery/RXi01AK

Need to strip this enamel off the car body. My son had an issue with the rattlecan and the complex body shape has bubbles in the crevasses. This is a base coat for a clear candy apple red finish.

I have read though this thread and while there is a lot of info here there is little distinction begween enamel and acrylic paints. I dont want to harm the plastic, there is however no putty involved, just styrene.

Simple green?
Hey - that silver isn't going to be reflective or even candy coloured. It will turn dark once sprayed with anything else! Just get a rag and some MINERAL SPIRITS and slowly remove it while wearing gloves. Get some paint that has this effect in it already - Testors makes a red glitter paint that looks like candy apple red so all you'd have to do is spray it with a clear coat to make it shiny.

Sorry people - I didn't know that this thread was so old. I am only trying to restore my Caddilac rag top so that I can paint it lightly and with a better apprearance. Thank you for reading.
It's a Pain In The Ass - not pita! Pita is what all the morons keep calling "flatbread"!
Post Reply