Basics. Colors. Types of paint

This is the place to get answers about painting, weathering and other aspects of finishing a model.

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Kylwell
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Post by Kylwell » Thu Apr 08, 2010 7:19 pm

Just break down and head for the art store. In particular look for Daler-Rowney pearlescent acrylic inks.
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Gerry
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Post by Gerry » Thu Apr 08, 2010 9:15 pm

yeah... been there. They didn't have the brand you mentioned, but I did find a very nice pearl white fluid paint by the Golden company. No review, still working with it. It would definately have to be air brushed, which I don't have....yet. that's my excuse to get one? Says to thin with water..hmmm but it's an excellent pearl so I'll let you know how that turns out.

in the mean time, if anyone read those, I've saved them the trouble of at least two brands..... my life is complete if I've helped my fellow man
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Post by Kylwell » Thu Apr 08, 2010 9:21 pm

The RC body one does look stunning inside a polycarb body. Beautiful but, as you said, looks like crap from the other side.
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Captain Riker
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Post by Captain Riker » Sun Sep 05, 2010 10:02 pm

I've been having issues brushing Tayima over Tayima. I paintged my model in a matte white using a Tayima spray can and it looked great. I did most of my secondary colors as either another spray can (with lots of masking) or using Model Master.

Now I have to touch up the original white and the Tayima white in a small bottle just doesn't cover. I mix it well (I think) but it seems to just run off or cover unevenly leaving a very un-even surface.

I tried to use Model Master over it but no luck. I've taken to stripping the offending area and masking the hell out of it and spraying it but I can't do that everywhere.

Any suggestions?

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Post by ExarKun77 » Sat Oct 16, 2010 3:00 pm

Quick question on this type of paint job:
http://www.hobby-show.info/tokyo2010/0088.html

(For practical reasons, i work with tamiya acrylics at the moment)
Could i reproduce this kind of effect by having a flat aluminum (or any metal color) and then a clear blue over it?

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Post by starmanmm » Sun Oct 17, 2010 6:01 pm

I think that there is a pearlscent color blue out there already?

I believe that I have seen this color in shows.
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Post by ExarKun77 » Mon Oct 18, 2010 4:00 am

Yep, i heard some companies sell this kind of color, like tamiya or vallejo.

I just wanted to know if i could do it 2 steps, and apprently yes, but there are pros and cons:
- you have more control on the colored layer (blue in this case), as it will darken with more layers.
- but it will be harder to get it even.

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Post by Kylwell » Mon Oct 18, 2010 12:44 pm

ExarKun77 wrote:Yep, i heard some companies sell this kind of color, like tamiya or vallejo.

I just wanted to know if i could do it 2 steps, and apprently yes, but there are pros and cons:
- you have more control on the colored layer (blue in this case), as it will darken with more layers.
- but it will be harder to get it even.
You might get a similar effect or you could try one of Testors metallic blue acrylics. Th most difficult part of what you propose is getting an even coat of clear. The thicker the clear coat the darker the color.
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Post by ExarKun77 » Mon Oct 18, 2010 2:53 pm

Got it. Just wanted to know if it was achievable this way.
But i guess finding the right paint will be a lot easier.

Thanks.

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Post by Kylwell » Mon Oct 18, 2010 3:22 pm

The red on this: http://www.starshipmodeler.com/contest/ ... kit_09.htm is Tamiya clear red over Alclad II Polished Aluminum.
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Post by ExarKun77 » Mon Oct 18, 2010 4:48 pm

That's pretty neat, i see.
The question is for a model i didn't even start, so i won't rush, but i may need this type of paint job on a "metallic" starship:
I mean the paint job will basicaly only be different metallic colors, and i think some of the panels have a clear color on top.

I'll see what i can find at the local store.
thanks again ;)

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Post by willo » Sun Aug 14, 2011 12:48 am

Re thinning enamel paints:
I'll be brushing by hand but I've been out of the hobby for years & some of my paints need thinning. I saw where somebody recommended "white spirits" but I think that's a British name as I don't recall it here in the U.S.

What I have are mostly Testor's enamels and with the cost of proprietary thinner and the distance to the hobby shop I'd rather go to the local hardware store. I'm wondering what might be best to use for thinning these paints.

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Post by Harry Joy » Sun Aug 14, 2011 1:45 am

White spirits would be most likely called mineral spirits in your local hardware store. Mineral spirits are very commonly used by the enamel guys.

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Post by Kylwell » Sun Aug 14, 2011 2:02 am

Or "Paint Thinner", a common name for mineral spirits.Back when I was using Testors enamels it's what I used.
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Post by willo » Mon Aug 15, 2011 5:13 pm

I was talking to a friend yesterday who has some experience with adhesives and solvents and he said that paint thinner is mostly or all Toluene, which should work fine, as suggested. Thanks, BTW.

He also said that "MEK" (Methyl ethyl ketone) works too, but that it's more harmful to people.

I'm pretty sure it was toluene that I used for making liquid styrene. Years ago I was working on a diorama where I had to turn a male figurine into a woman, and I wasn't completely satisfied with the results. The liquid styrene worked fine, though.

Slightly off topic, but I got the idea from a book on diaoramas where the author used liquid styrene and tissue paper to clothe his figures. That idea worked very well for me.

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Post by Kylwell » Mon Aug 15, 2011 5:40 pm

Commercially, paint thinner is mineral spirits. Toluene & MEK can both be used to glue styrene and can be used to thin some paints.
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Post by willo » Mon Aug 15, 2011 6:53 pm

So, I'm still wondering what mineral spirits are made from. Snake oil was originally made from snakes, fish oil is made from fish. I'm suspicious about baby oil, especially after reading a story titled "Oil of Dog". :wink:

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Post by Kylwell » Mon Aug 15, 2011 9:39 pm

It is a mixture of saturated aliphatic and alicyclic C7 to C12 hydrocarbons with a maximum content of 25% of C7 to C12 alkyl aromatic hydrocarbons.
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Post by Mr. Badwrench » Mon Aug 15, 2011 9:47 pm

Kylwell wrote:It is a mixture of saturated aliphatic and alicyclic C7 to C12 hydrocarbons with a maximum content of 25% of C7 to C12 alkyl aromatic hydrocarbons.
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Post by willo » Wed Aug 17, 2011 7:23 pm

Ah, that explains the euphemism.
Considering the diversity of minerals I figured it could be anything.
I do wonder about the relation of coal to kerosene, as in "coal oil".

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Post by Kylwell » Wed Aug 17, 2011 7:27 pm

Do you really want to know?...
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Post by anthsco » Fri Aug 26, 2011 11:49 pm

I am trying to put together various colors for a Photoshop project as it relates to Federation starship colors, specifically the Excelsior, Enterprise refit and A and the Miranda. The only color reference I have found is this one for the Ent D as she was intended to be painted:

http://probertdesigns.com/Folder_DESIGN ... rior2.html

Are there such references for the Enterprise refit and Enterprise A as well as the Miranda and Excelsior?

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Post by Gerry » Sat Sep 10, 2011 8:42 am

lzqqqq wrote:Moderator zapped Spambot links. Don't quote the Spambot!
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Post by crowe-t » Wed Feb 15, 2012 12:03 am

I've read that lacquer can go over acrylic paint.

Can acrylic paint(specifically Polly Scale acrylic) be painted over lacquer or rather synthetic lacquer(i.e. Gunze synthetic lacquer)?

BTW, I'll be hand painting this. I'm not sure when hand painting straight from a bottle, if the paints react differently then spraying thinned paint.

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Post by Kylwell » Wed Feb 15, 2012 12:18 am

Generally speaking, yes you can slather acrylic over modern lacquers. Heck even non-modern lacquers. It gets tricky if you use a lacquer based thinner like you can with Tamiya and Gunze but other than that...
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Post by crowe-t » Wed Feb 15, 2012 12:20 am

Thanks for the quick reply. I won't be thinning the lacquer. I need it to be thick so that's not a problem.

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Post by chiver » Mon Mar 26, 2012 1:09 pm

i use model masters enamel paints, I just got a newe air brush and compressor, the hobby shop where i live is way way too expencive. and i was going ot look into buy some thinner from wallmart or home depot. any one have any advice which i should get? maby a brand name if theres any fellow canadians on here?
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Post by Mr sinister » Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:38 am

I'm going to be airbrushing MM enamel as a base coat for my falcon, just a couple of questions: does the MM enamel need thinning before airbrushing? and once I've sprayed it and it's dried can i then wash it with thinners and oil paint to weather or will this ruin the enamel?

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Post by Kylwell » Tue Apr 03, 2012 12:28 pm

chiver wrote:i use model masters enamel paints, I just got a newe air brush and compressor, the hobby shop where i live is way way too expencive. and i was going ot look into buy some thinner from wallmart or home depot. any one have any advice which i should get? maby a brand name if theres any fellow canadians on here?
Yes, it's called "paint thinner" or "mineral spirits" and should be available in most hardware stores

Mr sinister wrote:I'm going to be airbrushing MM enamel as a base coat for my falcon, just a couple of questions: does the MM enamel need thinning before airbrushing? and once I've sprayed it and it's dried can i then wash it with thinners and oil paint to weather or will this ruin the enamel?
Lets think about this. You dissolve/thin the MM paint with paint thinner so what do you think will happen when you put more paint thinner on top of it? This will happen with any petroleum distillate like turpenoid. Plan on either an acrylic wash or and acrylic clear coat if you want to use an oil wash.

And yes, you'll need to thin the MM enamels before airbrushing or massively up your pressure (and be prepared for spider webbing).
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