Basics. Colors. Types of paint

This is the place to get answers about painting, weathering and other aspects of finishing a model.

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Atticus
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Post by Atticus »

OK, so I put down a neutral gray primer (enamel) on my Falcon, and have let it dry/cure for about two weeks (more by schedule than choice). I think it went well, considering what an awful n00b I am.

Next, I can put down light layers of either enamel (MM) or acrylic (Tamiya) on top of the enamel primer, as I have sets of colors (whites and light grays) for both types of paint.

I'm leaning towards acrylic, as from what I've read in this thread, you can apply acrylics on top of an enamel base, and because I've never worked with acrylics, would like to try them. Or should I stick with the enamel all the way through? I suppose like most things, it's a matter of personal preference...?

Thanks!
NikToo
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Post by NikToo »

Just a question on Vallejo Air Color paints. I can get pretty much the whole range of Vallejo Air Color (as well as Game and Model) so I'm just wondering what the pros/cons of it are. I've been using Vallejo Model color for years on tabletop minis so I'm kinda partial to it. The bumpf says Vallejo Air can be used with only a few drops of thinner and it has its own brand of cleaner. Anybody have any thoughts on the subject or experience with Vallejo Air?

Also, does anyone have experience of using Model Color in an airbrush? I already have a wide selection of Model Colors so it would be great if I could use them.
DarKev
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Post by DarKev »

Hello Folks

I was wondering if anyone could point me to a color chart of Japanese Paint Colors. I'm in the process of selecting my paint for a MG Char's Gelgoog from 0079 Mobile Suit Gundam (Game Color Version). I want to match the paint chart "symbol" to the kit's color percentage mixing table symbols so I can get a close match.

Now I've seen such a while back either here or on the net somewhere but I can't at all find it. Any help I can get to end my search would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

DarKev
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Kylwell
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Post by Kylwell »

Here's Gunze chart. The problem with matching via a computer screen is the colors vary from machine to machine.
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DarKev
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Post by DarKev »

Hello and Thanks

One thing however, I was looking for the I guess the chart with the color names in "Japanese". The little table (with mixing percentages) in the kit is in Japanese and thats what I am trying to match.

Thanks

DarKev
kylwell wrote:Here's Gunze chart. The problem with matching via a computer screen is the colors vary from machine to machine.
Why would one buy a "NEW" Multi_Million Dollar Management Information System that can't do processes that the old system did correctly?? Answer - Someone in Upper Level Administration got a "GIFT" (Unknown Author)
BKShepherd
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Post by BKShepherd »

I have question about acrylics is there somethnig you should use before you paint in order to keep the paint from peeling off the plastic? It seems to flake off pretty easily.
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Post by TER-OR »

I haven't had a problem with paint flaking using Tamiya, Gunze or Testors/PolyScale acrylics. You do want to wash the plastic well, though. And clean just before you paint. Whether you use something like Windex or PolyScale's Plastic Prep is up to you.

Some of the gamer paints are a bit trickier, they don't bond quite as well. Primer helps, though.
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BKShepherd
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Post by BKShepherd »

Ah OK I usally give my parts abath anyway. I also use an alchol swab right before I paint. I had done a test of the acrylics in a scrap part , I didn't washor swab I will try it, again.
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BKShepherd
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Post by BKShepherd »

I should also learn to spell :roll:
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starmanmm
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Post by starmanmm »

Ok, I'm getting ready to prime my kit. One question is, the primer (from a can) does not list if it is enamel or acrylic. So, do I figure it to be an enamel?

Next, if what I recall is correct, whether it is enamel or acrylic primer, if I am to cover it with an enamel base coat, as long as I let the primed pieces dry for a few days, I should have no reactions?
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starmanmm
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Enamel and Orange Peel

Post by starmanmm »

Just tried using MM Enamal paint. Got that pitted orange peel effect. So, what went wrong? Was the mix not thinned enough? Was I too close or too far away from the kit?
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Post by TER-OR »

That orange peel effect comes from uneven drying - the surface dries before the undercoat. Or from surface tension problems. The MM enamel was from the rattle-can? I rarely use those, I'm hoping someone else can help here.
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Lt. Z0mBe
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Post by Lt. Z0mBe »

Hmm...I don't use the little spray grenades much. I usually stick to the Krylon stuff.

Did you take care to keep moving as you sprayed? Uneven coats can lead to uneven drying and thus, orange peel. It seems to me, when I used to use the little cans, it was really easy to have uneven coats.

That's the best advice I've got. :(

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starmanmm
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Post by starmanmm »

No, no rattle can. This was sprayed via my airbrush. It was primed over a month ago so, that is not the issue either.
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Post by TER-OR »

One more issue I've found is painting gloss over gloss. For some reason this causes orange peeling many times for me. I've switched to flats or semi-gloss for all painting. At the end, if I need gloss - like for decals, I then airbrush a few coats of Future. This seems much more reliable.
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Apophis
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Post by Apophis »

So, what kind of thinner do i use for polyscale again? If i dont have thier stuff what can I use in place of? Alcohol, water, mineral spirits, turpenoid??
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Post by TER-OR »

If you don't have the PS thinner, use just a bit of water. I wouldn't mess with alcohol - that might cause gumminess. A little Windex in the water might help, but you should experiment before trying to paint the model, that's for sure.
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Apophis
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Post by Apophis »

I can do the windex! Thanks, This is my first Acryl paint. :D
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Apophis
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Post by Apophis »

Guess what?? I used the windex and totally destroyed my FMMF! after looking at the bottle to figure where i went wrong, and found it in the fine print under some paint smear, it reads"to apply by airbrush thin 75% paint 25% THINNER!!! its not even acylic! or even water based!?
And it is made by Testors too!
SO, if you all have any Floquil read the fine print and use THINNER, not anything else. :D
This is my mistake and noone elses, I told Ter-Or wrong he was right about the pollyscale, that you do use windex or distilled water, what i meant to ask was what do i use instead of "floquil thinner" and it should be any air brush thinner no other kind will work.
my bad! :(
Last edited by Apophis on Tue Aug 29, 2006 6:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Kylwell
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Post by Kylwell »

Uhm, most Testors paint is enamel.

And acrylic paints have thnner also (it's just that instead of petroleum it's alcohol based).
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Apophis
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Post by Apophis »

Yeah, i figuered that part out the hard way! live and learn, i just never used the floquil or pollyscale before thats all. :D
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Post by Jonas Calhoun »

Well, it's nothing that can't be salvaged...there are plenty of other threads here on getting paint removed. Keep us posted on your progress, and I'm sorry to hear what's happened.

If it makes you feel any better, I did something similar when I was first painting a house. Took a new gallon of latex housepaint, added about 15% mineral spirits. Tried to run it through one of the power painters. Gads, what a mess.

Dan
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Post by TER-OR »

Floquil is LACQUER! Be careful. Use good lacquer thinner to cut it. You won't need much most of the time, and lacquers can be sprayed fairly thin if you're careful and don't mind blowing fumes all over...

Nothing airbrushes like a lacquer, but nothing stinks up the house like a lacquer. Lacquers are "hot" and will etch into styrene a little. They'll also etch into a previous coat, which can be used for cool effect.

And you can develop a lot of habits using lacquer which will completley fail you when you use acrylics...trust me, I know.
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Apophis
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Post by Apophis »

Okay great, ive used laquers before on my impala, but ive got another question, I got anothe bottle of the same stuff and hooked up to the airbrush and sprayed it, now i used the whole bottle and it was so thin to begin with i did not have to thin it down, and the only thing i got painted was the top hull on my FMMF! the bottle was 1oz.
now my question is this, is this normal for this type of paint? being thin? too much air pressure? or is this an over coat you apply to the base color? :D
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starmanmm
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Post by starmanmm »

Ok Yamiya question, I know it is ment to be sprayed via an airbrush, but can you hand brush it? I've heard it done. Tried it but it seems to dry as I apply it.

What am I doing wrong (besides trying to do it)? #-o
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Kylwell
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Post by Kylwell »

Tamiya can be hand brushed very nicely (I've seen the results). You do have to thin it if you airbrush it, but hand brushing can be done straight out of the jar.
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Post by TER-OR »

Drying extenders might help, too - Liquitex makes a product called Slo-Dri.
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starmanmm
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Post by starmanmm »

So, for me to be able to hand brush tamiya, I have to use this product called Slo-Dri?

I have tried to hand brush it out of the jar, but it seems to dry too fast. That is my take on it.
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Jonas Calhoun
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Post by Jonas Calhoun »

The Tamiya and Gunze thinners also have some of the same properties as slow-dri. Especially Gunze leveling thinner.

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starmanmm
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Post by starmanmm »

Just trying to get the idea of this...

So, if I mix some of the Tamiya thinner into the paint that should give me the time I need to paint what I need to paint?
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