The key to decals, in my experience, is consistency in approach. You get in a "rhythm" that wayIonflyer wrote:Ok, a couple questions from someone who is re-teaching himself the finer points of modeling.
I'm currently working on my ERTL Reliant kit, working all the way up to the decal stage, and I'm trying MicroSol for the first time. So far, it seems to be having a sort of hit or miss effect, as with some decals it's working great, to the point where you really have to be looking for the edges of the decal to see them, and, conversely, one some pieces (especially the multitude of red trim stripes) it doesn't seem to be having any effect, and even causing some wrinkles to form along the edges of the decal... I've read some guides that say this is normal, and that the wrinkles will fade out as the solvent dries, but in some places this does not seem to be the case.
Also, any tips on getting the decal to conform to the little grooves beween hull plates? I keep getting instances where the decal will bridge the gap rather than settle down into it.
1.) Glosscoat with Future floorpolish.
2.) Make your water a milky white mixture of white glue and water. You'll want the "just rinsed cereal bowl in the sink" look.
3.) Have a jar of Future and your milkywater standing by, along with two soft paint brushes, a paper towel with a torn edge, and a clean towel.
4.) Dip the decal in the water/glue mixture for 10-15 seconds. Place it on a towel.
5.) Allow the decal to moisten for at least two minutes. Don't touch the decal.
6.) I said "Don't touch the decal."
7.) After a full two minutes, touch the edge of the decal with a paint brush, and try to gently push it along. I said "Don't touch it." You're wanting it to get to the point where it floats off the backing with the slightest pressure. You can dunk it again - hold with tweezers - or just place a drop of the milky water on it if it's softening fast enough.
8.) Once the decal is all "loosy goosy," paint just a little bit of Future with one brush and a couple of drops of the milky water with the other brush on the model where the decal is to go.
9.) Hold the decal up to the model with tweezers, and slide it off the backing using the brush you just used for the glue.
10.) Smooth the decal out and position it with the brush; for large decals, I use a moist cotton swab. Work quickly, you've got about three minutes with the Future.
11.) Don't touch the decal! Touch the torn edge of the paper towel to the edge of the decal and wick away the excess Future and water.
12.)I said "Don't touch the decal!" Allow it to dry. It may crinkle a bit as it dries. That's okay. It will smooth out. Some large decals may have a bubble or wrinkle that hangs around. No big deal. Poke a hole with a straight pin and brush a bit of Future there.
This technique lets the Future suck the decals down onto...more Future. You'll have little trouble with panel lines any more. Additionally, there's something about the Future that seems to act as a bit of a decal softener by proxy. I'm not sure if it's due to the decals truly being softened or the existing Future glosscoat being softened during the application.
I hope this helps.