Basics. Weathering. Washes

This is the place to get answers about painting, weathering and other aspects of finishing a model.

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Mr. Badwrench
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Post by Mr. Badwrench » Wed Aug 08, 2012 3:34 am

Depends on how thick it is. Oils can take weeks to dry, months to cure. But something sounds funny here. With just a thin oil wash, it shouldn't take that long to dry. I could see a day or two, but longer than that is unusual. What did you use for a base coat?
I speak of the pompatous of plastic.

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Post by Lord Darth Beavis » Wed Aug 08, 2012 10:52 am

Model Master acurylic light ghost gray, Brad. I wonder if it was the paint I used. Worse comes to worst, I can always strip and repaint. Maybe do a different scheme. :D
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Post by Mr. Badwrench » Fri Aug 10, 2012 3:49 am

Is the oil still wet? Did the oil thinner make the acrylic base coat sticky?
I speak of the pompatous of plastic.

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Post by Kylwell » Fri Aug 10, 2012 3:30 pm

Lord Darth Beavis wrote:Anybody tell me how long oil paints take to dry? I did a wash with some black oil paints, and 2 days later, it's still a wet mess. I even wiped the majority off with a lint-free towel, and still a mess.

Any suggestions?
what did you thin it with?
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Post by Lord Darth Beavis » Sat Aug 11, 2012 6:46 pm

The paint was still able to be brushed after 2 days, Brad. I didn't thin it with anything, Robb. The paint was super-thin when it ca.e out the tube. I justirred it up, and slopped it on. I haven't checked it today. I have left it with the fan blowing on it for the past 3 days. I'll post more when I get home and check it out.
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Post by Kylwell » Sat Aug 11, 2012 8:02 pm

That's you're problem. What you there is near pure linseed oil mixed with some pigment. Linseed oil can take weeks to harden. Oil paints can separate in the tube leaving you with the lightest of the linseed oil and some pigment.

How to fix it... Not sure if you can remove it without hurting the underlying layer as most stuff that'll break the linseed oil down may also attack the coat underneath. Well, try some odorless turpenoid (or just plain turpenoid if you can stand the smell) and gently clean the grooves & what with a soft cloth and a little turnpenoid.
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Post by Lord Darth Beavis » Tue Aug 14, 2012 1:56 am

I'll give it a go. If need be, I'll break out the Purple Power and strip it. :x

Note to self: RTFB before I try something new!
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Post by Mr. Badwrench » Wed Aug 15, 2012 5:12 am

RTFB? Read The F***ing Boards?
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Post by Kylwell » Wed Aug 15, 2012 12:02 pm

Really Try Filling Before?
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Post by Lord Darth Beavis » Thu Aug 16, 2012 2:42 am

Brad: yes.
Robb: no. :D

Lesson learned, and thanks muchly, gentlebeings.
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Post by Lord Darth Beavis » Tue Sep 11, 2012 1:47 am

Since I'm the resident village idiot, I have another question: What's the secret to drybrushing with acrylics? For whatever reason, they fail epically, compared to enamels.

Suggestions, learned ones?
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Post by Kylwell » Tue Sep 11, 2012 9:52 am

Can't answer that one. Never been able to drybrush so I figured out a better way. Pastel's, powder aluminum, graphic dust the ultimate in dry brushing. Dust a little on a wide soft brush and let it build up on edges.
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Post by Lord Darth Beavis » Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:34 am

Thanks, Robb. I'll have to try that, since I can't figure out doing it with acrylic paints! :evil:
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Post by Go Flight » Mon Sep 17, 2012 3:31 pm

Lord Darth Beavis wrote:Since I'm the resident village idiot, I have another question: What's the secret to drybrushing with acrylics? For whatever reason, they fail epically, compared to enamels.

Suggestions, learned ones?
Problem with dry brushing acrylics is that they dry too fast. Really only way to stop this is to add a retarder to the paint. It extends the drying time of the acrylic paint. Something like this -
http://www.amazon.com/Sax-True-Flow-Acr ... B0044S8ZS8
should help you out. Maybe visit a local art supply store... HTH

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Post by Kylwell » Mon Sep 17, 2012 3:54 pm

Vallejo also makes a retarder for their paints. IIRC so does Gunze for those people still able to get their paints.
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Post by Lord Darth Beavis » Thu Sep 20, 2012 12:24 am

Thanks, Kev. I knew there was something off with my paints.

Does anybody know if we'll ever get Gunze paints here again? Or, is it even possible to ship them here?
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Post by Lord Darth Beavis » Thu Sep 20, 2012 12:53 am

Thanks, Kev. I knew there was something off with my paints.

Does anybody know if we'll ever get Gunze paints here again? Or, is it even possible to ship them here?
"I have an ARMY!"

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Post by Kylwell » Thu Sep 20, 2012 11:28 am

Mr. Hobby or Mr. Color? Or either... both... I just want my Mr. Surfacer!
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Post by Go Flight » Thu Sep 20, 2012 3:08 pm

Welcome Lord Darth B

Kylwell wrote:Mr. Hobby or Mr. Color? Or either... both... I just want my Mr. Surfacer!
Hmmm, must be a local issue. At my LHS (in NJ) they have all the Mr. Surfacer's. :-k

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Post by TER-OR » Wed Oct 17, 2012 7:45 pm

Make a solution 50% water, 25% Liquitex Flo-Aid, 25% Liquitex Slo-Dri and use that to extend your paints for dry-brushing. The better acrylic painters don't drybrush, but apply many fine layers of nearly transparent paints to get the effects they want.

It takes practice. And Vallejo, Reaper, etc. make acrylics designed to be thinned and hand-painted (less acrylic base, more pigment, much thicker). The Gunze might not need the water described above.
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Post by christrom » Mon Oct 22, 2012 7:59 pm

Just wondering: Can you spray a final coat of testors (or equivalent) dullcoate over an oil wash or oil filter to make the model matte? If the oil paint is dry will it have any adverse effect?

thanks!

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Post by Mr. Badwrench » Mon Oct 22, 2012 9:39 pm

Yes you can. In fact, you should.
Last edited by Mr. Badwrench on Mon Oct 22, 2012 9:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Mr. Badwrench
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Post by Mr. Badwrench » Mon Oct 22, 2012 9:39 pm

Stupid double post
Stupid double post.
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Post by christrom » Tue Oct 23, 2012 1:41 am

Well, that's alright then. Thanks

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Post by Lord Darth Beavis » Mon Nov 05, 2012 4:42 am

Thanks for the tip, Ter!
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Post by CarlGo » Sat Jan 19, 2013 11:24 am

Is it possible to do a wash of enamel paint thinned with something like varsol over an acrylic base coat? I'm painting the engines on my Venator and I thought a a Testors jet exhaust wash over a Tamiya gunmetal base coat might be an interesting look... Can I attempt it with these paints or should I stick to acrylic over enamel to be safe?
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Post by caisson2delta » Sat Jan 19, 2013 4:22 pm

Using the enamel wash over the acrylic should work just fine. I would just do a test, with the particular thinning agent, prior to application. I have always just used straight mineral spirits and have never had an issue.

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Post by hoth rebel » Sun Nov 24, 2013 2:55 pm

I am going to do a snap together x-wing.
What is the best way to wash a model like this?
I want to dirty it up a little.

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Post by starmanmm » Sun Nov 24, 2013 5:23 pm

either with pastels or oil washes.
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Post by hoth rebel » Thu Nov 28, 2013 9:33 am

Who makes a good pre made oil wash?

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