Basics. Airbrushing.

This is the place to get answers about painting, weathering and other aspects of finishing a model.

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TER-OR
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Post by TER-OR »

It will not paint a clean, contained line. You'll get fuzzier edges than normal and you'll get some spatter.

Really, the best thing to do is buy a replacement and look at both. Then you'll get an idea about how quickly or slowly the tip wears. The needle jams into it, so it's going to go bad over time.

Since it's a gradual process, you don't notice it's going bad until you try to do some precision work. It's kind of like car brakes, you don't know how bad they are until you don't stop. Espescially now that the non-metallic pads squeal after every hard rain anyway.
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Post by justcrash »

TER-OR wrote:It will not paint a clean, contained line. You'll get fuzzier edges than normal and you'll get some spatter.

Really, the best thing to do is buy a replacement and look at both. Then you'll get an idea about how quickly or slowly the tip wears. The needle jams into it, so it's going to go bad over time.

Since it's a gradual process, you don't notice it's going bad until you try to do some precision work. It's kind of like car brakes, you don't know how bad they are until you don't stop. Espescially now that the non-metallic pads squeal after every hard rain anyway.
Makes sense! Thanks man! :)
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Post by xamel1975 »

TER-OR wrote:Get a new tip. Buy a couple while you're doing so. The tip will wear down over time, and you may not notice until you try to do precision work. A worn tip may be OK for area coverage, but not fine control.

A cracked tip - is garbage. You wil have no control.
A coupl' a kudos comin' your way, man :)
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Post by TER-OR »

Eek the Cat wrote: It never hurts to help.
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Post by nicholjm »

I just used an airbrush for the first time yesterday. It was very fun, and not as hard as I thought it would be. Correction, it was easy to blow paint all over paper, but I can see how it takes considerable skill to master the double-action. I used black Delta Ceramcoat acrylic paint thinned 50/50 with tap water. I do have many questions for airbrush pros:

1. The lines that I painted came out more of a dark gray than black. How do I get it to be a deep, dark black? Do you have to keep thickening it up with multiple coats? That seems kinda difficult to do repeatedly if your trying to do detail work.

2. Should I stick with acrylic paints? I've heard enamels through an airbrush can be hard on the brush and harder to clean. Also the fumes, man, the fumes...

3. I cleaned my be spraying some Windex thru it, then rinsed that by spraying distilled water thru it for about 60 seconds. I then dissassembled it and rinsed off the tip, the needle and anything else with paint on it. Is that enough?

4. Sometimes when I first started spraying, I would get some splatter then it would stop. Is this normal?

All in all, it was still very fun. I practiced painting lines, making dots, and covering large areas. I had some trouble making a steady line, but I'm sure practice will help. Can't wait to do it again.
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Post by Kylwell »

nicholjm wrote:1. The lines that I painted came out more of a dark gray than black. How do I get it to be a deep, dark black? Do you have to keep thickening it up with multiple coats? That seems kinda difficult to do repeatedly if your trying to do detail work.

2. Should I stick with acrylic paints? I've heard enamels through an airbrush can be hard on the brush and harder to clean. Also the fumes, man, the fumes...

3. I cleaned my be spraying some Windex thru it, then rinsed that by spraying distilled water thru it for about 60 seconds. I then dissassembled it and rinsed off the tip, the needle and anything else with paint on it. Is that enough?

4. Sometimes when I first started spraying, I would get some splatter then it would stop. Is this normal?
1. That's the prblem with the cheap paint. Swap out to a higher grade (Tamiya, Gunze, Testors) and you'll get much blacker blacks.

2. Acrylics are easier and healthier (as far as that goes) but Enamels are more opaque and harder (less easily damaged). Both need ventalation, the acrylics less than the enamels.

3. Yes, depending on the brush. I spray cleaner through mine for 60 sec when I'm in paint mode, then deep clean it once a month.

4. You'll usually have a higher pressure in the hose of the airbrush, this can cause a bit of spatter initially. It's always good to start your spray off the subject.

Glad you enjoyed it. The more you use it the easier (and more addictive) it'll be.
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Post by nicholjm »

Thanks, kylwell!

The only acrylic that's easily available around here is Model Master's Acryl. There are plenty of enamels available too. I'll try everything once. My next thing is to try spraying Future.

I brought all my old models from high school home (to the delight of my parents) this weekend. Most of them suck, and will be used to try out the airbrush and different washes and weathering techniques. A few are pretty good, and will be cleaned up here and there.

I just wish I had a garage to spray in. All I got is a back porch, which is very weather dependent. One day I'll make a spraybooth if the wife let's me.
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Post by Jonas Calhoun »

You got a kid? My wife bought me a spray booth after our 4 year old wanted to learn to airbrush.

MM Acryls run just fine through the airbrush. You can thin with distilled water, wiper fluid, etc. I've noticed Acryls are much more forgiving than other acrylics to what they are thinned with.

Good luck, post any questions you've got!

Dan
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Post by justcrash »

nicholjm wrote:Thanks, kylwell!

The only acrylic that's easily available around here is Model Master's Acryl. There are plenty of enamels available too. I'll try everything once. My next thing is to try spraying Future.

I brought all my old models from high school home (to the delight of my parents) this weekend. Most of them suck, and will be used to try out the airbrush and different washes and weathering techniques. A few are pretty good, and will be cleaned up here and there.

I just wish I had a garage to spray in. All I got is a back porch, which is very weather dependent. One day I'll make a spraybooth if the wife let's me.
They are pretty simple to build! if you need any help, let me know. :)
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Post by xamel1975 »

While browsing in a local art shop, I came across a "Gravity feed" handpiece. According to the proprietor, this handpiece doesn't require a compressor, uses gravity to feed the paint and ideal for fine lines.

Has anyone used this type of handpiece? It's a Paasche.
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Post by Kylwell »

Generally speaking, a gravity fed airbrush simply has the color cup on top instead on the side or bottom. Such as the VSR90#1-GRAVITY FEED DOUBLE
ACTION-INTERNAL MIX
on this page.
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Post by Lt. Z0mBe »

xamel1975 wrote:While browsing in a local art shop, I came across a "Gravity feed" handpiece. According to the proprietor, this handpiece doesn't require a compressor, uses gravity to feed the paint and ideal for fine lines.

Has anyone used this type of handpiece? It's a Paasche.
Forgive me if I'm being stupid here, but you're not equating gravity-feed to lack of compressor, are you? I didn't think so, but I wanted to be sure. You'll still need a source of compressed air, but it can be a can.

I hope this helps.

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Post by xamel1975 »

Sorry for being very vague on the description. The handpiece that I saw don't have any inlet whatsoever for air hose. It's just a handpiece that looks like a fountain pen with a cup.

That's why it puzzles me. As mentioned in my previous post, the proprietor showed me the handpiece and did mentioned that it is ideal for fine lines but he didn't provide any demonstration, though.

I'll get more details when I pay the shop another visit.
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Post by Kylwell »

Sounds like one of the old pin-striping pens. Problem is that it has a set line width.
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Post by Less Than Super Ostrich »

What do you use to clean Alclad II out of your airbrush? I've been using Lacquer Thinner, but I don't know if that is too harsh on the rubber seals on the Airbrush. Anyone??
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Post by Jonas Calhoun »

Depends on the airbrush. I use Lacquer thinner in my Iwata, but I've heard it can harm other airbrushes...

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Post by Mr. Badwrench »

I use lacquer thinner through my Badger 150 with no problems also.
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Post by nicholjm »

I used my airbrush for the first time yesterday to paint some small parts. It was really fun, and I was amazed how smooth a finish it makes. I understand now how you can really get in there and have control over the area you are painting and the amount of paint you're putting on (I'm used to spray cans - BIG difference!). The actual painting was the funnest and most rewarding part, the remaining 75% of the time involved preparation and cleanup. I learned how to use pippets to transfer paint, how to mix thinner and blend colors, and how wonderful Windex is for cleaning up Tamiya paints. Cleaning the airbrush was pretty easy too. And my spraybooth worked gloriously. I look forward to my many future years of airbrushing.
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Post by TER-OR »

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Post by Lt. Z0mBe »

nicholjm wrote:I used my airbrush for the first time yesterday to paint some small parts. It was really fun, and I was amazed how smooth a finish it makes. I understand now how you can really get in there and have control over the area you are painting and the amount of paint you're putting on (I'm used to spray cans - BIG difference!). The actual painting was the funnest and most rewarding part, the remaining 75% of the time involved preparation and cleanup. I learned how to use pippets to transfer paint, how to mix thinner and blend colors, and how wonderful Windex is for cleaning up Tamiya paints. Cleaning the airbrush was pretty easy too. And my spraybooth worked gloriously. I look forward to my many future years of airbrushing.
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Post by admiralcag »

Less Than Super Ostrich wrote:What do you use to clean Alclad II out of your airbrush? I've been using Lacquer Thinner, but I don't know if that is too harsh on the rubber seals on the Airbrush. Anyone??
Lacquer thinner will eat your seals for lunch. I use a Badger 350 and have had to replace many an airtip seal that was rotted out by the thinner. Carefully remove your seals when you break down your brush for cleaning. I don't know if there is a lubricant that can be used on them to keep them from drying out.

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Post by Kylwell »

Another reason to buy a Iwata. Theyuse teflon seals in the body of the brush, which is also why you cannot (and should not) put the needle in from the front.
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Post by NikToo »

I've been looking at getting an airbrush, and having thrown away my old Badger when I moved out from my parents, I was wondering what people recommend as a good beginner's airbrush? I'll probably be doing mostly 1:72 scale models, so don't know if precision is that big an issue. Any tips? I'm looking at the Aztek A320, the Crescendo 175-7 or just the AB-128.
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a320

Post by bmx32008 »

Hey, I've been biulding models ever since i was about 9 and i am 16 and im just getting into airbrushing. I purchased an aztek a320 and i used water for the first time to get the feeling for it it but no water is coming out. I want to know how to actually get it to spray and what i am doing wrong Question Question ............yes im a newb
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Post by TER-OR »

THe A320 is an internal-mix single-action airbrush. There should be a screw or dial or perhaps the nozzle itself which will screw out to allow more liquid flow. Perhaps that's what's happening. I presume when you press the trigger you do get airflow. You should be able to regulate the airflow, as well.
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Post by bmx32008 »

Well... i tried putting a little dish washing soap and a drop of coloring so i could tell. And then i would keep ajusting the dial in the back to see if it would start spraying. But all i keep getting is just the propellant going through. I still cant figure out what i am doing wrong.......?
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Post by starmanmm »

Kylwell wrote
Another reason to buy a Iwata. Theyuse teflon seals in the body of the brush, which is also why you cannot (and should not) put the needle in from the front.
So, I should have no problem with my HP CR that I just bought, regarding cleaning out with Lacquer thinner?
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Post by Kylwell »

Shouldn't.
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Post by Jonas Calhoun »

Just remember--use the right solvent for the paint--lacquer thinner's a bit overkill for acrylics, for example. Not that the Iwata can't handle it, but you don't need all the protective gear for other solvents...

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Post by TER-OR »

bmx32008 wrote:Well... i tried putting a little dish washing soap and a drop of coloring so i could tell. And then i would keep ajusting the dial in the back to see if it would start spraying. But all i keep getting is just the propellant going through. I still cant figure out what i am doing wrong.......?
Since no one has replied, you might want to try a couple other forums.
www.modelingmadness.com
www.hyperscale.com

I really am unfamiliar with the Aztek brushes, I wish I could be of more help.
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