Future floor polish

This is the place to get answers about painting, weathering and other aspects of finishing a model.

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Post by Kylwell » Mon Oct 09, 2006 10:43 am

ok, let me try to put this another way...

It's like adding water to India ink. It doesn't get any less black but it does get thinner. Paint is two parts, pigment and carrier. When you add Future to acrylic paint you're adding more carrier, thus thinning just the pigment. If you add paint thinner to the paint you're not only thinning the pigement but thinning the carrier (and thus making the consistancy of the paint thinner).
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Post by TER-OR » Mon Oct 09, 2006 6:21 pm

You know India Ink disperses quite well in Future, too.

Paint conditioning usually involves adding a drying retarder or flow aids. Future can act as a flow aid, but it may make the surface dry a bit quick - so be sure to use thin coats.
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Post by USSARCADIA » Sun Dec 17, 2006 9:31 pm

I have a smal problem and need some advice. I used black ink in some panel lines, then sprayed Future over the model(Viper MK VII). The ink ran in some places. I rubbed some Windex on a paper towel over the runs and the areas now lack there sheen. My question is should I recoat or can I go right to Testor Dullcoat with no ill effects?
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Post by Lt. Z0mBe » Sun Dec 17, 2006 10:04 pm

USSARCADIA wrote:I have a smal problem and need some advice. I used black ink in some panel lines, then sprayed Future over the model(Viper MK VII). The ink ran in some places. I rubbed some Windex on a paper towel over the runs and the areas now lack there sheen. My question is should I recoat or can I go right to Testor Dullcoat with no ill effects?
Are the areas otherwise intact? I mean, are the colors fine? Is there no clouding of the Future?

IF everything's fine, you should probably be okay. But, if you need to do any more washes, you'll want to Future first.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

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Post by USSARCADIA » Mon Dec 18, 2006 7:19 pm

All the other areas are fine. No clouding and colors are good. Any other washes I was going to do on top of the Dullcoat. As long as the Dullcoat goes on with no noticeable difference.

Thanks for the help.
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Post by Lt. Z0mBe » Mon Dec 18, 2006 11:50 pm

USSARCADIA wrote:All the other areas are fine. No clouding and colors are good. Any other washes I was going to do on top of the Dullcoat. As long as the Dullcoat goes on with no noticeable difference.

Thanks for the help.
DON'T WASH ON TOP OF THE DULLCOAT!!!! It will stain the dullcoat and not be a true wash. Trust me, you want the wash to flow over the smooth surface of the glossy Future, not stain the rough surface of the Dullcote.

All washes should be done over a gloss coat. In this case, Future.

I hope this helps.

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Post by TER-OR » Tue Dec 19, 2006 10:10 pm

If your wash is for fuel stains etc. you can do over dull. But if you're doing things like panel washes where you need a defined line - do over gloss. You will be able to remove excess easily.

Kenny's right - listen to experience....
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Post by USSARCADIA » Wed Dec 20, 2006 7:30 pm

I won't be doing many areas this way, just like you said, stain type areas. I've had good results with washes over Dullcoat when done correctly. Most of my weathering after Dullcoat will be pastel chalks, but sometimes a grimey black wash works better(especially on SW models).

My experience with Future is limited, so I'd rather ask before I frak it up. Thanks again for the help.
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Post by MrNobudy » Sun Jun 17, 2007 4:01 pm

is there a way to make Future useable as a dullcoat? I am hesitant to use the Model Master Acryl dullcoat again since they changed the formula.
Or does anyone know a good substitute to the MM dull? preferably somthing easy to airbrush or use from a can?
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Post by Kun2112 » Sun Jun 17, 2007 4:30 pm

I have had fair to good results by mixing it with Polly Scale dull coat and thining it--alot.
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Post by macfrank » Sun Jun 17, 2007 4:36 pm

MrNobudy wrote:is there a way to make Future useable as a dullcoat? I am hesitant to use the Model Master Acryl dullcoat again since they changed the formula.
What's wrong with the new MM formula? The old Acryl flat was the best flat clear acrylic I've ever used - it would make me thirsty just to look at it after it dried.

Tamiya has/had a flat base that you could add to glossy acrylics (or even Future). It takes some trial and error to get the mix to work right with Future - if you put too much of the base you'll end up with a milky white residue forming in corners.

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Post by TER-OR » Sun Jun 17, 2007 8:16 pm

I need to evaluate the Acryl dullcoat. Now that I know how to use the PolyScale dullcoat, I might have better luck with the Testors.
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Post by Ron » Sat Sep 15, 2007 5:01 pm

I've used Future successfully in the past for decal placement, overall finish and clear parts. However, after reading through this entire topic, I do have a question about using Future on large clear parts that I hope someone can help me with.

Generally, in order to make a clear plastic part look more like glass, you dip the part in Future, allow the excess to run off, wick away any small remaining Future with a paper towel, and set it up under cover (to protect it from dust) to dry. The most common application for this technique is aircraft canopies.

However, what about larger parts?

I used the same technique for the "windows" of an automobile model, which most of you know, is a rather large clear part - the front, rear and side windows are often all molded into one piece. Although I was successful in achieving the overall effect of making the large part look like the windows/windshield on a car, because of the dipping process and the "large" size of the part, I did end up with a run in the rear windshield, even after using a piece of paper towel to wick away any excess Future.

So now with two other automotive models nearing completion, I'm looking for an alternative way to apply Future to my windows.

I'm not entirely sure of what kind of results I would get if I used either a paint brush or an airbrush to apply Future to these large parts. There was one technique I tried on something else and was wondering how it would work:

My watch face (crystal) was extremely scratched and covered with paint, so much so that I could hardly read it to tell the time. I managed to use a scriber to clean off the paint, then wet-sanded the scratched crystal to try and eliminate most of the scratches. Of course that ended up in the entire surface of the crystal being quite clouded. So I took a Q-tip (cotton swab), dipped it in Future, and basically painted my watch crystal with it. As it was just a watch crystal, I didn't care if I had streaks from the application, and the small size of the crystal itself was too small to use my airbrush on and risk overspray onto the rest of the watch face and strap.

After two or three applications, I was quite impressed with the overall effect. In fact even after the first application, my watch crystal looked brand new. Now keep in mind that as a watch crystal is relatively small, I have no idea if the same technique would work on larger clear parts.

(I was only disappointed that I hadn't tried the same technique on a pair of sunglasses that had become badly scratched - I ended up throwing them out).

So my question is: has anyone else tried using a Q-tip/cotton swab for applying Future to (large) clear parts?

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Post by TER-OR » Sun Sep 16, 2007 6:32 pm

I have, but I find it's much more streaky than dipping. The key to dipping is using a big enough container, and efficiently blotting the excess. I find Kraft paper bags are good for that. You need to keep an eye on it, and keep blotting the excess as it accumulates. Another trick is not to do the whole thing on something like car windows. Do the front and back separately, so you can keep them more level, which should help minimize streaking and accumulating. A bit of alcohol can also be used to thin the Future, which might help.

If it doesn't work, strip it and try again.
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Post by Lord Darth Beavis » Mon Sep 17, 2007 6:52 am

Okay, dumb question here: Where are you finding your Future? I've looked in Wal-Mart and Target, both, and have had ZERO luck.

Any suggestions? :-s
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Post by Kylwell » Mon Sep 17, 2007 9:09 am

Heck, I get mine at the grocery store. Cleaning isle.
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Post by quantumdriver » Mon Sep 17, 2007 8:50 pm

I looked at all the grocery stores and big box stores in my area for Future before finally, while having a key made, I discovered it at a local Ace hardware. So... that, or other hardware stores might be worth a shot.

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Post by Lord Darth Beavis » Mon Sep 17, 2007 8:52 pm

I'm going to have to hit Albertson's and Kroeger to see what they've got. Might also hit Winn-Dixie when I'm back in Louisiana this weekend. Gotta find it somewhere!
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Post by DasPhule » Mon Sep 17, 2007 11:22 pm

Winn Dixie has it down here in Tampa, so probably there as well. When I went looking it for it they were the only grocery store I found it at, and I tried all of them.
A local janitor supply house had it, too, so if you can't find it, look em up in the yella pages.

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Post by Lord Darth Beavis » Tue Sep 18, 2007 6:36 am

Thanks for the tip, Erin. I'm going to Winn-Dixie for petit pois peas for Lady Beavis. Might as well get me a bottle of Future while I'm there!
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Post by Lord Darth Beavis » Wed Sep 26, 2007 8:39 pm

SCORE! Got 2 bottles at Rouse's when I went to Covington. Now, i can finish my Spitfire!

WOO HOO! :D
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Post by Dukat, S.G. » Sun Dec 16, 2007 6:33 pm

Has anyone found that, even spraying @ ~12-15 PSI, your Future isn't the fine mist you'd like it to be?
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Post by jpolacchi » Thu Dec 20, 2007 5:28 pm

I would say that it would need to be thinned more aggressively,but I've never used "Future Floor Polish" before and don't know how it performs/reacts?With paint,the thinner you can reduce your paint,the lowere the psi you can use.Something I've been strugggling with when using hobby enamels/acrylics.30 psi is really only good for priming or painting an object that is a single color.Too much overspray at 30,20 and even 15 psi.So,I'm not sure if the same rules can be applied with Future Floor Polish?

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Post by TER-OR » Thu Dec 20, 2007 10:32 pm

I think the thinning techniques are on this thread. I sometimes thin 25% with a 50/50 IPA/Water mix. Then I can ease off the pressure a bit. Don't expect to get a full coat the first pass. As with most airbrushing, several thin coats are better than one thick.
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Post by joe155 » Thu Dec 27, 2007 12:16 am

The surface must, I say again must be clean! can't stress enough! just a tiny dab of alchole on a clean white rag lightly go over the part that you are applying. I use this practice with everything I paint and surface with clearcoats, I.E Future. Thank you! carry on ! :o
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Post by Tracy Mann » Fri Jan 18, 2008 4:50 pm

In addition to what Joe just said... If you are applying Future over a Matt finish, be prepared to apply several coats. Thinning is not nessecary because most of the Future product evaporates away leaving a very thin clear acrylic coat.

example: I use Future to fill in auto/aircraft instrument roundels. My 1/24 scale Peterbilt Wrecker (a 2-time winner at IPMS Nat's I may add :wink: ) took over a dozen layered applications to get it built up smooth as glass with none of the instument detail buldging the "glass cover" effect. A 1/48 scale aircraft may take up to as much as 8 applications for the smooth glass look. Yeah, it takes a while, but it's a LOT better looking than the fish-eye epoxy glass technique which will amber and more-than-likely pop off in the years to come.


The imperfections caused by a matt/flat finish is what makes the finish look flat. The first couple of coats of Future is going to high-light those imperfections at first, so don't be disgrunteled. As more coats are applied, the micro-crevices and peaks start to level out and eventually are covered where you obtain your gloss finish.

You must have patience with Future. Don't try to cover in one pass for that gloss shine you're looking for. I did a 1/24 scal AV-8 Harrier which was painted with flat Testors Model Masters enamels. It took 9 layered coats to get the shine I wanted before applying decals - just to knock it down a knotch to get the semi-gloss finish the Royal Navy use to be known for back in the 70's and 80's.

Tracy

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Post by TER-OR » Sat Jan 19, 2008 9:36 pm

A word to the wise, Tamiya flat paints are WAY too flat, and will take forever to gloss over. I prefer semi-gloss, wherever possible. I'll take a gloss paint and add the Flat Base to make a semi-gloss. And yeah, numerous lighter coats are better than thick coats....
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Post by Kylwell » Sat Jan 19, 2008 11:43 pm

TER-OR wrote:A word to the wise, Tamiya flat paints are WAY too flat, and will take forever to gloss over. I prefer semi-gloss, wherever possible. I'll take a gloss paint and add the Flat Base to make a semi-gloss. And yeah, numerous lighter coats are better than thick coats....
Poop on you, they do not. You want flat, try some of that JW's stuff Kenny found. Now that merde is flat. Takes at most two coats of Future to gloss Tamiya flat.
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Post by Hiryu02 » Thu Jan 24, 2008 5:55 pm

I know someone mentioned brushing Future on stright out of the bottle, but has anyone tried spraying it with those cheap commercial spray bottles. You know the type that Windex comes in.

That sound feasible? or will the spray not be fine/consistent enough?

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Post by Kylwell » Thu Jan 24, 2008 7:52 pm

I know somebody else has brought that up but never posted the results. It might work, provided the pump could produce a fine enough mist.
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