Tamiya Clear coat

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holt35
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Tamiya Clear coat

Post by holt35 »

Hey guys I'm about to finish my new Excelsior model and I've been having problems with my old clear not drying and remaining a little sticky even years latter so I need to switch it up but am worried about yellowing. Has anyone used Tamiya clear coat TS-13 and if so have you noticed any yellowing over time?
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Rocketeer
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Post by Rocketeer »

I've used Tamiya clear and have not noticed any yellowing. Specifically, I used it (a lot of it!) on a JoHan '68 SCRambler model I built several years ago.
irishtrek
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Post by irishtrek »

Is this Tamyia clear a gloss or flat??
Normal?? What is normal??
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Post by naoto »

Naoto Kimura
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holt35
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Post by holt35 »

Thanks for the info guys I'm still not sure what I should use since every time I've ever used lacquer spray it's yellowed over time I'd rather use acrylic but I'm not sure what a good one is ?I use to use Krylon crystal clear but it's really let me down the last two times I've used it.

If anyone has a better option please let me know.
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Post by irishtrek »

From what I've read Testors clear gloss will yellow but their clear flat does not yellow.
since you're building the Excelsior do you want a gloss or a flat finish??
If it's gloss the go with future floor polish, if it's a flat finish it's my understanding the Testors clear flat does not yellow.
Don't know about Tamyia clears though.
Normal?? What is normal??
holt35
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Post by holt35 »

Thanks irishtrek. I need a gloss finish for the decals and I like a gloss finish better myself I know everybody love's future floor polish and I've kind of stayed away from it. What is it called now day I though they changed the name a few years back and is they anything I need to know about airbrushing with it?
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Post by Vetter »

It's under the Pledge line now. Something like Pledge with future shine on the label and make sure it's says acrylic.

Can't say about airbrushing it as I haven't tried to.
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Post by irishtrek »

Got me bottle right next to me and the label says
'pledge floor care tile & vinyl floor finish with future shine'.
I have run it through my airbrush with no problems.
Normal?? What is normal??
holt35
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Post by holt35 »

I'm reading online that it's now called Pledge floor care multi-surface finish. Can anyone confirm this.
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Post by Zubie »

Are the Modge Podge brand acrylic clear coats (marketed in gloss, semi-gloss, and flat) a useful substitute for the floorwax. I happen to have a can I used on a card models since as a spray it doesn't soak the paper (although on this occasion, the paper was already painted in silver enamel - normally I use the Krylon clear for sealing paper).
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Post by irishtrek »

So, will the Tamyia gloss turn yellow over time??
Normal?? What is normal??
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Rocketeer
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Post by Rocketeer »

As I mentioned above ;) , a model car I built several years ago, painted with Tamiya clear, shows no signs of yellowing.
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Post by SpaceRanger1 »

holt35 wrote:I'm reading online that it's now called Pledge floor care multi-surface finish. Can anyone confirm this.
Confirmed.
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holt35
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Post by holt35 »

Rocketeer wrote:As I mentioned above ;) , a model car I built several years ago, painted with Tamiya clear, shows no signs of yellowing.
I have to ask is the model car White or a different color? it seems to me that the yellowing will be more noticeable on a White model.

Thanks for the confirmation SpaceRanger1 I'll have to finally pick some up and see how I like it.
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Rocketeer
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Post by Rocketeer »

holt35 wrote:
Rocketeer wrote:As I mentioned above ;) , a model car I built several years ago, painted with Tamiya clear, shows no signs of yellowing.
I have to ask is the model car White or a different color? it seems to me that the yellowing will be more noticeable on a White model.

It's red, white, and blue. That is, white mostly, with blue decal stripes: http://gearheads.org/wp-content/uploads ... ler_02.jpg
holt35
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Post by holt35 »

Rocketeer wrote:
holt35 wrote:
Rocketeer wrote:As I mentioned above ;) , a model car I built several years ago, painted with Tamiya clear, shows no signs of yellowing.
I have to ask is the model car White or a different color? it seems to me that the yellowing will be more noticeable on a White model.

It's red, white, and blue. That is, white mostly, with blue decal stripes: http://gearheads.org/wp-content/uploads ... ler_02.jpg
Very nice looking model If I didn't know already I'd have though it was a real car in the photo. And I don't see any yellowing so Tamiya must make good stuff.
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Post by irishtrek »

Rocketeer wrote:
holt35 wrote:
Rocketeer wrote:As I mentioned above ;) , a model car I built several years ago, painted with Tamiya clear, shows no signs of yellowing.
I have to ask is the model car White or a different color? it seems to me that the yellowing will be more noticeable on a White model.

It's red, white, and blue. That is, white mostly, with blue decal stripes: http://gearheads.org/wp-content/uploads ... ler_02.jpg
That's an awesome looking paint job!!!
Normal?? What is normal??
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TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan
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Post by TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan »

Holt, Tamiya TS-13 Clear out of the rattle can is a lacquer, and is not intended to go over decals as it will eat them up. Use it as a base coat, but I would advise against using it over decals. Sorry to sound like a Japan snob, but Tamiya doesn't make crap like Testors clear coat. I'm not even that much of a Tamiya fan at that, and I prefer Mr. Color anyway.

As for that bottle you have, that is just weird and you should just throw it out. I've never had a problem with Tamiya clears refusing to dry. Testors silver and gold enamel paints (out of the small, square bottles) never seem to dry completely, in my experience.
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Rocketeer
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Post by Rocketeer »

holt35 wrote:...Very nice looking model If I didn't know already I'd have though it was a real car in the photo. And I don't see any yellowing so Tamiya must make good stuff.

I saw what you did there. ;) The photo is of a real car, of course; I just wanted to illustrate what proportion of the paint was white.

But hey. I just ran downstairs and took some pics of the model:

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z256 ... kypipu.jpg

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z256 ... bwiza5.jpg

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z256 ... 8pnfop.jpg

You can see that the white and clear coat has held up very well. :)

PS: What was said in TVGM's post just above about Tamiya Clear not liking decals is quite true. I went through three sets of decals painting that model; they kept distorting/shrinking. The final solution was to spray a couple light coats, and then only go heavy on the last couple.
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TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan
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Post by TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan »

What you could also do (according to someone on here who also is on the Macrossworld modeling forum but I cannot remember his name) is lay down a coat of clear acrylic before a final coat of TS-13 after it's cured. I've never done this, but it sounds feasible. IIRC, the can itself says that it is not to be sprayed onto decals as it will ruin them.
Greg
Plastic modeling and other nerd stuff in Japan on my YouTube channel
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One day I was walking and I found this big log. Then I rolled the log over and underneath was a tiny little stick. And I was like, "That log had a child!"
holt35
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Post by holt35 »

Thanks for all the reply's. I've decided to go with the pledge clear and for the decals I ordered Papilio decal laminate which they say to use with Papilio decals.

Turkeyvolume it wasn't the Tamiya that didn't dry it was the Krylon crystal clear on my 1/1000 Saratoga model, after about a year and it still feeling sticky I wet sanded it to take the stickiness away and it's pretty good now but it's not something I want to deal with ever again.
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