can paper print-outs be used as a surface finish and how?

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OdysseySlipways
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can paper print-outs be used as a surface finish and how?

Post by OdysseySlipways »

ya, that's a mouthful and i'm not even sure i worded it right............

okay, here's my thinking - i am looking to make sore large 1:6th scale structures for the r/c tank club and i have been looking at some (scaled) paper craft structures that look like they might be practical (to build) and be scaled up. from there i'd be making the structure from 3/8"+ plywood.

(now here's where that mouthful comes into play)

i was going to just paint them with house paints but some of them will require a bit of extra painting (such as for decent brick and stone appearance) and then started to wonder, why couldn't i just have the print outs enlarged, printed from a copier (as to use toner vs ink) and somehow attach it to the structure.

here are my concerns:

how could i seal the printing and be able to glue it to the sealed wood and not have a color change of the printing?

then how would i glue it to the sealed wood?

after it was on, i was thinking of giving it at least 3 coats of a flat clear paint to seal it as we fight with armed tanks (paint ball)

i'm just seeing if this is possible then see if it is practical to try it this was vs either my trying to do a decent job painting them vs getting someone to laser me some of them painting masks.
Chris,
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Chas
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Post by Chas »

I use this:
http://www.krylon.com/products/matte-finish/ to seal graphite and charcoal portraits. Works perfectly.

As for adhering it to the wood I would go with something like this: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... 584&rt=rud

If you are planning on putting 3 coats of flat clear after it is attached I don't see why you would need to seal it before it is stuck down. I assume you are spraying the flat clear, so that 'should' mean that the flat clear is going on in thin coats. I don't imagine that would cause the toner to run unless the sheets are fresh off the printer.
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naoto
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Post by naoto »

For papercraft I've been using Krylon Matte Finish spray. The first few passes I apply light coat to prevent the ink from running (I use an inkjet). The white from cut edges can be disguised by coloring them with some felt tip pens. Likewise in situations where I get cracking from bending paper around sharp corners, I use felt tip pens to cover over the white.
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Kekker
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Post by Kekker »

There are some pre-made printed surfaces, like brick, cinder block, stones that are made by some companies like Micro Mark.

I just found this site: paperbrick.co that lets you generate brick wall prints that have random variations, with different colors and bonds. The largest scale they have is 1/12, but you should be able to double the size without it getting pixillated.

Kev
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o2b4wln
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Post by o2b4wln »

Have you considered Mod Podge. Model railroaders use it for water and crafters use it to adhere pictures to various materials.

You can use furniture varnish to seal it.

Youtube mod podge and hopefully it might fit your needs.

Good luck!
OdysseySlipways
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Post by OdysseySlipways »

well i know Krylon isn't effected by paintball paint, so that's good to use

i'll have to look at that glue

and i currently am trying to get that paper brick site to load up to see how that is.

the pre-made surfaces, do you mean like Plastruct (sp?) where you can buy it by the sheet? i had thought about that but trying to clean it up after a battle may not be easy with the little nooks.

i do have a few sheets of large stone sheeting that i will be molding so i can make fiberglass sheets from the molds and use them on some large (fold-up) bridges.

but for the buildings it'll either be print-outs or hand painted. if i add any kind of raised detail it may be window framing, doors and steps
Chris,
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Kekker
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Post by Kekker »

The pre made ones at MicroMark are just printed paper, but they're only in smaller scales.
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