Just wondering if it were possible to take a primer poll without an actual vote section as it would be too limited.? If we could list the primer we use and a short why. I know a lot of answers would be limited to what material they have available in their country but it would be interesting to me. Then after sometime I could sum it all up and make a kind of primer chart....the good, the maybe and the ugly? Anyone want to play?
or should this belong in the "Finishing" section?
Primer poll?
Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators
Primer poll?
"I was married by a judge. I should have asked for a jury."
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Johnnycrash
- Posts: 5563
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 12:57 pm
- Location: Timmins, Ontario, Canada
I use an automotive primer. It's a scratch filling, sandable primer. It's a little hot, but not too bad. It will melt 0.005" plastic I use from Evergreen, but has been safe on all other plastics. It's only $5.99 for a 284g can. MUCH cheaper than hobby primers. Iy dries fast, goes on smoothly, and provided a nice even finish. It can be wet sanding to a high gloss. I have not found a paint that will not stick to it.
John Fleming
I know that's not what the instructions say, but the kit's wrong anyway.
I know that's not what the instructions say, but the kit's wrong anyway.
Hi Dark Star,
You have a great idea for a thread. When I reentered modeling I was obsessed with fillers and primers because I had so much trouble with seams.
Currently I use Gunze Sangyo's Mr. Surfacer 500 or Mr. Surfacer 1000 thinned with Mr. Color Thinner shot through an airbrush. I also apply it out-of-the-bottle with a toothpick to fill seams, scratches and small dimples and pinholes. I loved the old square bottles with the paint-well cap and lament their passing. I think I've used Mr. Surfacer for nearly a decade.
There are a number of reasons I like Mr. Surfacer. You can remove it with 91% or 99% isopropyl alcohol so you can finish some seams with little or no sanding. With some primers, problem areas you thought you sanded to perfection like sprue gates or the demarcation line between putty and plastic will will become glaringly obvious. I think people call this ghosting or etching. When you thin Mr. Surfacer with Mr. Thinner this doesn't happen. When you thin it with lacquer thinner it behaves a lot like automotive primer. Also Mr. Surfacer is an acceptable metal primer. With Aves and Mr. Surfacer you can fill and prime just about any model. Back when the dollar was strong and the yen was weak, buying it from Rainbow Ten was very affordable.
After spraying Mr. Surfacer I clean my airbrush with cheap lacquer thinner.
I airbrush primers because I lack the hand-eye coordination needed for spray cans. I could never achieve good repeatable results with a spray bomb. An airbrush limits the size of my mistakes.
So much for the Mr. Surfacer ad. Since opinions differ, here are other primers I've tried and primers people I know use.
Before Mr. Surfacer, I airbrushed automotive primer form the little touch up bottles (not the cans) and thinned with acetone. I used Plasti-kote Scratch Color Automotive Sanding Primmer and Dupli-Color Scratch Filler and Primer. These were good primers and airbrushed beautifully. Plasti-kote and Dupli-Color were so similar you could mix them. Wallmart sold both back when I used them. The main disadvantage is occasionally I'd get ghosting/etching. These are the best metal primers I've used.
Previously I used spray cans of automotive primer - usually Plasti-kote or Dupli-color but also other brands. In addition to the control problems, orange peel was frequent and there was more ghosting/etching. And when it goes on too thick it can obscure detail. I haven't bought any in years. They might have changed the formula. While spray cans of car primer were cheap many of them had nozzles intended to hose down car doors. On the small models I built about half the paint was overspray.
There's a case against priming. One of the most talented and productive aircraft modelers around here doesn't prime. When he's finished airbrushing a model he shoots whatever paint he has left along the seams and problem areas of another model he has under construction. For most of his 40+ years of modeling he used enamels from Testors, Model Master and Humbrol. He might be migrating to acrylics now. By eliminating a step he reduces the time spent on a build and the number of things that can go wrong. I might have tried this on a model when I got back into modeling. Since I didn't know what I was doing back then I didn't give it a fair chance.
Here's stuff I've never tried.
Here in Central Kentucky we have some very talented car modelers. Their work appears in national magazines and they bring medals home from regional contests. Some of them use two-part catalyzed polyurethane automotive primer. (Maybe Dupont VariPrime?) They shoot perfectly smooth flat coats with automotive touch-up guns. One of them uses a primer that produces thick ugly orange peel finishes that he apparently sands to perfection. Go figure.
Some modelers like primer from Floquil or gaming companies. Other modelers have their favorite brand of cheap department store spray paint.
Future or Pledge with Future or whatever they call it now is great on clear parts. Occasionally someone says they prime with it.
HTH
Mike
You have a great idea for a thread. When I reentered modeling I was obsessed with fillers and primers because I had so much trouble with seams.
Currently I use Gunze Sangyo's Mr. Surfacer 500 or Mr. Surfacer 1000 thinned with Mr. Color Thinner shot through an airbrush. I also apply it out-of-the-bottle with a toothpick to fill seams, scratches and small dimples and pinholes. I loved the old square bottles with the paint-well cap and lament their passing. I think I've used Mr. Surfacer for nearly a decade.
There are a number of reasons I like Mr. Surfacer. You can remove it with 91% or 99% isopropyl alcohol so you can finish some seams with little or no sanding. With some primers, problem areas you thought you sanded to perfection like sprue gates or the demarcation line between putty and plastic will will become glaringly obvious. I think people call this ghosting or etching. When you thin Mr. Surfacer with Mr. Thinner this doesn't happen. When you thin it with lacquer thinner it behaves a lot like automotive primer. Also Mr. Surfacer is an acceptable metal primer. With Aves and Mr. Surfacer you can fill and prime just about any model. Back when the dollar was strong and the yen was weak, buying it from Rainbow Ten was very affordable.
After spraying Mr. Surfacer I clean my airbrush with cheap lacquer thinner.
I airbrush primers because I lack the hand-eye coordination needed for spray cans. I could never achieve good repeatable results with a spray bomb. An airbrush limits the size of my mistakes.
So much for the Mr. Surfacer ad. Since opinions differ, here are other primers I've tried and primers people I know use.
Before Mr. Surfacer, I airbrushed automotive primer form the little touch up bottles (not the cans) and thinned with acetone. I used Plasti-kote Scratch Color Automotive Sanding Primmer and Dupli-Color Scratch Filler and Primer. These were good primers and airbrushed beautifully. Plasti-kote and Dupli-Color were so similar you could mix them. Wallmart sold both back when I used them. The main disadvantage is occasionally I'd get ghosting/etching. These are the best metal primers I've used.
Previously I used spray cans of automotive primer - usually Plasti-kote or Dupli-color but also other brands. In addition to the control problems, orange peel was frequent and there was more ghosting/etching. And when it goes on too thick it can obscure detail. I haven't bought any in years. They might have changed the formula. While spray cans of car primer were cheap many of them had nozzles intended to hose down car doors. On the small models I built about half the paint was overspray.
There's a case against priming. One of the most talented and productive aircraft modelers around here doesn't prime. When he's finished airbrushing a model he shoots whatever paint he has left along the seams and problem areas of another model he has under construction. For most of his 40+ years of modeling he used enamels from Testors, Model Master and Humbrol. He might be migrating to acrylics now. By eliminating a step he reduces the time spent on a build and the number of things that can go wrong. I might have tried this on a model when I got back into modeling. Since I didn't know what I was doing back then I didn't give it a fair chance.
Here's stuff I've never tried.
Here in Central Kentucky we have some very talented car modelers. Their work appears in national magazines and they bring medals home from regional contests. Some of them use two-part catalyzed polyurethane automotive primer. (Maybe Dupont VariPrime?) They shoot perfectly smooth flat coats with automotive touch-up guns. One of them uses a primer that produces thick ugly orange peel finishes that he apparently sands to perfection. Go figure.
Some modelers like primer from Floquil or gaming companies. Other modelers have their favorite brand of cheap department store spray paint.
Future or Pledge with Future or whatever they call it now is great on clear parts. Occasionally someone says they prime with it.
HTH
Mike
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Tony Agustin
- Posts: 4098
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 6:50 pm
- Location: Elmwood Park, IL.
Mr. Surfacer 1000 or 1200 though an airbrush. Doesn't clog details, dries quickly, sandable, cuts though most minor residual mold release & body oils, and sticks crazy to most anything.
I've also used Mr. Resin Primer when I can find it for priming resin kits. It's a little hotter than the usual Mr. Surfacer and better @ adhering to polyester resins.
I've tried the usual mix of rattle can primers and never found one that was fine enough for me.
I've also used Mr. Resin Primer when I can find it for priming resin kits. It's a little hotter than the usual Mr. Surfacer and better @ adhering to polyester resins.
I've tried the usual mix of rattle can primers and never found one that was fine enough for me.
Abolish Alliteration
I use Tamiya grey and white primers in rattlecans. Goes on real fine, doesn't obscure detail, no airbrush cleanup. The grey covers well, the white not so well--but better than most white primers. By far the best rattlecan primers I've used.
That said, they don't fill very well either; but I can live with that.
That said, they don't fill very well either; but I can live with that.
Some great helpful info so far! What sucks is I made a "Primer Chart" in my documents file, saved one to my library to pictures file and tried like heck to send it over to my Photo Bucket account so I could post a link here for who ever wanted to look at it. It apparently won't load and I keep getting an error message. I've tried changing the file to different configurations but no go, at least in Photo Bucket.
"Upload failed for PrimerStats.wps with error: Video server error"
"Upload failed for PrimerStats.wps with error: Video server error"
"I was married by a judge. I should have asked for a jury."
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Johnnycrash
- Posts: 5563
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 12:57 pm
- Location: Timmins, Ontario, Canada
Uh... That's because NONE of those formats are photo files. It's called PHOTObucket for a reason. For other types of files, you will need a different service.Dark Star wrote:I tried others, txt, htm, doc, docx, etc......nothing works.Kylwell wrote:... perhaps because photobucket doesn't support .wps formatting....
John Fleming
I know that's not what the instructions say, but the kit's wrong anyway.
I know that's not what the instructions say, but the kit's wrong anyway.
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Thomas E. Johnson
- Posts: 2821
- Joined: Fri Jan 23, 2004 10:56 pm
- Location: Up The Street From Uncle Sam's House
This thread, on my second-favorite message board, has some recommendations for file-sharing sites. IANAL, YMMV, etc.Johnnycrash wrote:Uh... That's because NONE of those formats are photo files. It's called PHOTObucket for a reason. For other types of files, you will need a different service.
http://boards.straightdope.com/sdmb/sho ... p?t=570494
Came up with this simple chart and will try to add as new info comes along. Feel free to start your own and put it here as I'm having a lot of problems trying to get these files uploaded, Not sure if you guys can even upload this one:
Primer Chart
Primer Chart
"I was married by a judge. I should have asked for a jury."
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TREKKRIFFIC
- Posts: 3204
- Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2005 7:37 pm
- Location: Fremont, CA (near Milpitas north of Golfland USA)
- Contact:
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david bailey
- Posts: 158
- Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2005 11:51 pm
- Location: roanoke va.
post a reply
I too swear by krylon products,in my opinion there the best. Have been using for years. I have never really tried anything else. I use the red,black,grey, and white primers. For really tough jobs that require putty and sanding i use automotive sandable primers. For odd ball hobby jobs once in awhile i will use cheap primers.I know there is alot of primers out there ,i have been a regular user of Krylon.Speaking of Krylon products,has anyone tried the new paints?. I have and i must say ther good. I don't care much for the new nozzles on the cans but i can live with it. I save all my nozzles when i'm finished with the cans,see i always keep extras so if there needed in a pinch i have them
david bailey
Johnnycrash wrote:I use an automotive primer. It's a scratch filling, sandable primer. It's a little hot, but not too bad. It will melt 0.005" plastic I use from Evergreen, but has been safe on all other plastics. It's only $5.99 for a 284g can. MUCH cheaper than hobby primers. Iy dries fast, goes on smoothly, and provided a nice even finish. It can be wet sanding to a high gloss. I have not found a paint that will not stick to it.
Same here