The Abbey of Aves

Got a question about techniques, materials or other aspects of physically building a model? This is the place to ask.

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Harry Joy
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Post by Harry Joy »

I had to Google to see what Aves is, never having heard of it before. Once I got to the manufacturer's page, I see that these cats make Apoxie Sculpt. Now that, I'm familiar with that and have some in the cabinet. I've never used it much, mainly for gaming scale figure bases and bits, but I've got friends who use it all the time as a filler. I've just always preferred CA for that.

Which Aves product is everyone referring to? It doesn't sound like Apoxie Sculpt. And what sets it aside from other putties and fillers?
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Post by Underlord »

I can't speak for anyone but myself, but I equate the fevered loyalty to Aves Apoxie Sculpt. Once I tried it, i tossed my squadron white in the "stuff I've outgrown" drawer along with my Testors plastic glue in the blue tube (YUCK).

I still have some conversion to go. For quick fills or very small projects I still use some french tube of "Plastic putty" that I got from my LHS. It doesn't work even close to as good as my Apoxie Sculpt, but it's sitting right there always ready.

BTW: My latest "find" for mixing Aves relates to an old hobby. I used to collect shot glasses... and using the heavy glass bar shot glasses makes mixing up a relatively small batch SUPER easy. Clean up is really easy on glass as well. And if for some reason it isn't, I've got 10 more just like it.
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Post by USS Atlantis »

Harry Joy wrote:I had to Google to see what Aves is, never having heard of it before. Once I got to the manufacturer's page, I see that these cats make Apoxie Sculpt. Now that, I'm familiar with that and have some in the cabinet. I've never used it much, mainly for gaming scale figure bases and bits, but I've got friends who use it all the time as a filler. I've just always preferred CA for that.

Which Aves product is everyone referring to? It doesn't sound like Apoxie Sculpt. And what sets it aside from other putties and fillers?
1) Works easy with water - a little water and you can smooth it, shape it and it doesn't affect the drying/setting

2) 1:1 mix means never having a problem with ratios

3) Takes primer just like styrene

4) Once dry it files/sands easily

Myself - for creating features like filling large areas or even extending the linear accelerator on the 18" TOS-E it's Apoxie Sculpt

for small filling, like on my Lief Ericson then it's Apoxie Paste
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Harry Joy
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Post by Harry Joy »

Underlord wrote:I used to collect shot glasses... and using the heavy glass bar shot glasses makes mixing up a relatively small batch SUPER easy. Clean up is really easy on glass as well. And if for some reason it isn't, I've got 10 more just like it.

I've picked up many glass shot glasses for the same reason. I try to segregate them for particular uses, so some are used to hold Future, some rubbing alcohol, some [most actually] paint, and some for glues and such.
USS Atlantis wrote:Myself - for creating features like filling large areas or even extending the linear accelerator on the 18" TOS-E it's Apoxie Sculpt

for small filling, like on my Lief Ericson then it's Apoxie Paste

Thanks for the filling in, so to speak. :)
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Post by Devin »

I'm having an issue, and I think it's a bad batch, but I shall seek opinions. I've got a set of Apoxie Paste that I mixed a batch of on Monday evening and the stuff still hasn't set fully. It's very tacky, and if I rub my fingers over it (applied to butterboard to fill some gouges) it will roll off, and I can even scratch it off completely with my fingernail. If it was just this once, I'd think I'd mixed it improperly, but every time I've tried using the paste it behaves like this. Like I said, I assume it's a bad batch. Any thoughts?
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starmanmm
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Post by starmanmm »

Sounds like a bad mix of the two parts... but never used the paste
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Post by USS Atlantis »

As a regular user of the Paste, here's my thoughts

Sounds like one of several things

1) Improper mix - either the ratio or it wasn't completely mixed together - I usually mix the two parts for 2-3 minutes to make sure

2) Adulterated - something that could retard the drying got into one or the other parts

3) Bad batch - rare but it does happen

Is this a new pair of jars or some that you've had for a while?
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Post by Devin »

I just did another test mix and see how that goes. I mixed it at least 4 minutes, so we'll see if that goes. The ratio's are always 1:1.

This batch is a few years old, so that might be it, too. I'll see how this test comes out, but otherwise I'll just order some more from the store.
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Post by Mark Yungblut »

This year the had the Paste in tubes at WF. I bought both types.
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Post by TER-OR »

with the previous formula one part would separate and had to be mixed for a while on its own. From what I understand, that's been fixed now.
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Post by Devin »

That might be the issue I'm having. My Part B has a bit of "oil" on the top of the container that I didn't mix in completely before mixing in part A.

The test batch from last night worked a lot better, but it's still just a bit tacky. I'm assuming it should dry to the same density as the Apoxy Sculpt, and that just isn't happening. I'll order a new batch (I like the idea of the new tubes) and give that a try.
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Post by Glorfindel »

I can't recall if this was covered in this thread but does anyone know the difference between Apoxie Paste and Fixit Paste?
http://www.avesstudio.com/index.php?pag ... t&Itemid=4
http://www.avesstudio.com/index.php?pag ... t&Itemid=4
Reading their descriptions it's as if their both the same product. Has anyone used these as seam fillers because it seems as if they would work great. I'm curious. And if so do you prefer one over the other? Would you recommend it? I have the Apoxy Sculpt already and was wondering if these other two products are easier to use on seams.
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Post by Kylwell »

The FixIt is much tackier and dries harder.
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Post by USS Atlantis »

For narrow seams, all I use is Apoxie Paste

Fills well, easily formed with a pallet knife or ceramic spatula, files and sands to shape well

Haven't used Fixit
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Post by Glorfindel »

I worked a little tonight on the pilot of the Pro Shop X-wing group build I'm involved in and tried something that popped into my head at work today. Perhaps I'm a bit slow but I read on the Aves site that their Safety Solvent for their pastes and 2-part epoxies (sculpt) can feather out these products, and that it is safer than acetone. So being the recluse that I am I packed the open back of the pilot with my Aves and then dipped a paint brush into some acetone and slowly began feathering out the seams between the plastic and the Aves. It worked great and was thoroughly satisfied. My question is this, before I attempt it, can Epoxy Sculpt be thinned to the point of it becoming a paste-like substance? Will or can it still dry rock hard? Opinions? :-k
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Post by TER-OR »

I have thinned the sculpt with alcohol to the point where I could brush or syringe it into a gap. It was not as strong as full-strength epoxy putty or moderately thinned. I'd experiment with that if I were you.
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Post by sci-fi-bldr »

Not sure if this has been covered before...if so...I'm sorry

But....

I'm working on modifying a resin figure...and I'm using Aves Apoxie Scuplt...

I was wanting to check some areas with a primer coat............If more filling is needed...does the Aves stick well over primer???
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Post by Kylwell »

Sticks well for me.
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Post by Mr. Badwrench »

I prefer Aves over resin to just about anything else. The resin and putty are so similar in consistency, iof it weren't for the color difference it would be hard to tell where one ended and the other began.
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Post by Whiteraven_2001 »

In my local HobbyTown, I noticed "Apoxie Clay" in the same-sized A and B containers as Sculpt. Is this a new product? I'm considering buying some as I have a styrene figure model with some short-shot parts (missing feet on leg halves). Anyone used it?
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Post by its-jess »

Well, I'm sold. I've always modeled on the principal of "making the inexpensive build LOOK expensive", i.e rattlecan instead of airbrush, etc, but I finally broke down and bought some Aves (It's not that expensive, just never bothered). Wow. I've been working on a few prototype Trek kitbashes that required a generous amount of filling and reshaping. On the first, I used Squadron. Fill, shape, sand, fill, shape, sand, fill, shape etc etc. On my second one (same design), I was able to fill, shape, and smooth with finger the same area and shape in just a few minutes with better results than I achieved on the 1st prototype with about 5 man-hours of filling, shaping and sanding. Looks like 24 hours to dry, a quick light sanding for a mirror finish, and I'm ready for primer WAY ahead of schedule. Sweet!
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Post by Lt. Z0mBe »

its-jess wrote:Well, I'm sold. I've always modeled on the principal of "making the inexpensive build LOOK expensive", i.e rattlecan instead of airbrush, etc, but I finally broke down and bought some Aves (It's not that expensive, just never bothered). Wow. I've been working on a few prototype Trek kitbashes that required a generous amount of filling and reshaping. On the first, I used Squadron. Fill, shape, sand, fill, shape, sand, fill, shape etc etc. On my second one (same design), I was able to fill, shape, and smooth with finger the same area and shape in just a few minutes with better results than I achieved on the 1st prototype with about 5 man-hours of filling, shaping and sanding. Looks like 24 hours to dry, a quick light sanding for a mirror finish, and I'm ready for primer WAY ahead of schedule. Sweet!
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Post by Glorfindel »

Picked up the Epoxy Paste recently and I have to say I like the slow self leveling action it takes on as it soothes itself out. Very neat stuff indeed.
On an unrelated Aves subject....unlike the Aves will Bondo Spot Putty crack over time like other putty's?
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Post by starmanmm »

not that I have found.
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Post by jafo »

id like the know the diff between the sculpt, paste and clay. When I ask them at their booth at WF they cant give me a straight answer.... :x
Last edited by jafo on Tue Jun 12, 2012 6:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by JadedMonk »

Texture.

I haven't used the clay yet, though I am keen to. The paste is what you would have if you thinned the sculpt down significantly. When the paste does eventually cure it is also softer will still take an impression, such as a fingernail. The sculpt sands beautifully, very much like styrene and resin, and can be polished to a glass-like finish.

From what I have best been able to gather, the clay is closer to traditional ceramic sculpting media. Not quite Chavant, maybe WED or stoneware.

Hope that helped a little.
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Re: The Abbey of Aves

Post by DeltaVee »

Some help with a crisis of faith and too impatient to scroll through 11 pages:
I've got 2 resin fuselage halves that will have to hold up a total wingspan of 8-10 inches of resin wings. CA or Aves? If Aves, sandpaper rough surface or dinged with a Dremel?
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Re: The Abbey of Aves

Post by gsb5w »

Glue the resin with CA or 5 minute epoxy.
I would not trust Aves for glueing two halves on its own. Its great stuff for filling gaps and sculpting.

The Aves goes on smoothly with a drop of water and just using your finger. You don't need special tools for sanding once its dry, all you need is the same sanding techniques you would use on styrene and resin.

I use CA and accelerator to fill gaps a lot as well but Aves scribes way better for me when I need to.
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Re: The Abbey of Aves

Post by DeltaVee »

Thanks. Yes, I've done crazy stuff with Aves, sculpted completely missing detail on a spaceship, etc. but never relied on it as a load-bearing adhesive.
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Re: The Abbey of Aves

Post by DeltaVee »

So now I have a package of J-B Weld Plastic Bonder ("World's Strongest Bond") Sets in 15 minutes. I'd appreciate any tips for removing anything that oozes out of the seam or has to be sanded. Is there a solvent that wipes it away cleanly without harming the kit resin? Other advice?
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