Aves Sculpt cure time? (new problem)

Digger1 · Post by **Digger1** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 6:05 pm

It's been about three hours now and it's still rubbery. I mixed for about a minute in my fingers two pieces of each which are about the side of a dime (flattened out).

It's rainy/overcast here today. Could that have something to do with it?

Digger1 · Post by **Digger1** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:30 pm

anyone?

'cause I'm starting to feel it's not what it's cracked up to be. If I can't get replies to what I might have done wrong or if it doesn't cure by tomorrow evening (time to get replys), I'll be returning it and going with bondo.

I mean everyone here seems to rave about it but it's still rubbery. I know I mixed equal portions of the A&B. Do I need a slight amount of one or the other?

Again, does the humidity play a factor in cure time?

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:34 pm

4 hours generally.

Still workable in 1, maybe 2.

DennisH · Post by **DennisH** » Wed Oct 18, 2006 11:01 pm

Also, you need to mix it completely. I think they suggest two minutes. Kneed it, blend it, smoosh it, squish it, repeat.

If it doesn't set up for you, scrape it off and mix up another small batch really, really good this time and I'll bet you see the miracle that is AVES!

Don't write it off just yet.

Dennis

rocketrider · Post by **rocketrider** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 9:35 am

[Hijack Thread]

Where do you buy your AVES? I can't seem to find it in my area?

[Un-Hijack Thread]

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 9:38 am

Why from Starship Modeler of course.

rocketrider · Post by **rocketrider** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 11:01 am

geez, I didn't even think of looking here...

Im off to see
thanks

[Update]
Ok, they have Sculpt and Paste, I read the difference, but which is best for filing model seams and stuff?

thanks

woozle · Post by **woozle** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 12:14 pm

I've found that if you don't get a good 50/50 mix, it won't cure completely. I've never checked it in less time then the next day.

Digger1 · Post by **Digger1** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 1:01 pm

I've let it cure. It's nice and hard and I've repeated the results on more seams. Not it's just hard to sand and it flakes off like dried candle wax and it gums up the sandpaper.

woozle · Post by **woozle** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 1:05 pm

Personally, for seam filling, I prefer Squadron Green putty. The solvent makes the green putty bind much better and it also cures rock hard.
Here's an example of using both together, from my WILD WOOZLE fighter
http://home.comcast.net/~thewoozle/models/f309_05.jpg

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 1:07 pm

Black CA. No flakes, no shrinkage, no problem.

Aves I used for big seams, usually backed up by black CA.

Never had much of a gumming issue but that's jest me.

Digger1 · Post by **Digger1** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 1:09 pm

Great.

Y'all raved about Aves and now you're suggesting the stuff I was already using!

Make up my mind already!

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 1:12 pm

Indeed I use Aves all over the place.

Guess I have a lotta big seams. My StagBeetle have about half a tub of Aves in it. Made the grips for my Phaser Type C Mk XI with it (and filleted the joints). Even figured out a way to fill panel lines.

Species5618 · Post by **Species5618** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 1:36 pm

I got to give this stuff a try.

I've only read good things about it. Mostly form Kylwell

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 1:37 pm

Oh great, another thing that gets blamed on me.

Species5618 · Post by **Species5618** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 2:01 pm

kylwell wrote:Oh great, another thing that gets blamed on me.

Ha Ha

I promise I will not blame you if I have any problems with AVES.

I will follow the directions.

Alot of things can affect your results with a product impatience, humidity, room temperature, oily hands. Me thinks the fist one is a common problem. And not reading the directions.

I have read more good things about it than bad.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 2:04 pm

Yeah I learned not to eat a salami sandwich and prep models for paint.

Paint will not stick to salami oil.

Mark Yungblut · Post by **Mark Yungblut** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 4:50 pm

Babaganoosh wrote:Great. Y'all raved about Aves and now you're suggesting the stuff I was already using!

Make up my mind already!

No, no Aves is one of the best fillers and when mixecd porperly it has a great deal of adhesive properties. I primarily use Aves as a filler. However, I do still use Bondo glazing putty (similar to the squadren green but a batter product IMHO) to do spot filling. I think you'll find that most of the guys that use Aves as a filler also use a spot filler as well.

Just my 2 cents,

Mark

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Sun Oct 22, 2006 1:25 am

Babaganosh,

If it's flaking on you, it's one of two things. Either it's not mixed properly or it's not mixed in correct proportions.

Here's what I do. I have tubs "A" and "B." I have two cheap butter knives with plastic handles. Each is marked for its respective tub. THEY NEVER CROSS.

Egon wrote:Don't cross the streams.

I use each knife to carefully dip out little dollips of putty from the respective tubs onto the end of each knife. This helps me keep them of uniform size. I'll even grab them, separately, and roll them into little balls if I am having trouble.

Long story short, I've experienced what you're decribing. When mixed incorrectly, or in the wrong proportions, you'll have those issues. Also, just like with other fillers, it's best to wet sand the stuff.

These words give me comfort:

"...This day, I say unto thee. With Aves, there is symmetry and balance. The branch has the root, the night has the dark, man has wife, sex-mad babboon has the wolf, sheep have the shepherd, and the A, my brothers, the A has equal measures of the B."

~ Mixtures 23:12

Kenny

Sparky · Post by **Sparky** » Sun Oct 22, 2006 2:58 am

It is very sticky, I try to mix wearing latex glvoes but it tears off the finger tips one by one. if you use something to prevent it from being so stick, so you can roll it thin lets say, you wet it with water to re activate it's stickness. Joe B, and Mark can flesh this concept out , its all from their WF classes.

BTW dont' forget, for secret SM santa a sample pack of aves in with a kit is a good idea. Folks will play more with something if they get 'stuck' with it as a gift.

Digger1 · Post by **Digger1** » Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:23 am

Nifty! Thanks, fellas!

bluesman · Post by **bluesman** » Sun Oct 22, 2006 2:04 pm

Ganoosh,

I have used aves to fill seems, repair small chips in resin kits, and blend disimilar shapes.

It take some getting used to, but once you got it you won;t want to use anything else.

A 50/50 mix is important. Knead, mush and do waht you gotta do for a good two mintues.

I use Isoprpryl alcohol to blend and smooth the stuff onto the model. The other thick is mix up smaller batches...you can always add but you cant take away.

I sand under a stream of running water.

We'll make a beleiver out of ya.

macfrank · Post by **macfrank** » Sun Oct 22, 2006 4:30 pm

Sparky wrote:It is very sticky, I try to mix wearing latex glvoes but it tears off the finger tips one by one. if you use something to prevent it from being so stick, so you can roll it thin lets say, you wet it with water to re activate it's stickness. Joe B, and Mark can flesh this concept out , its all from their WF classes.

I use baby poweder to keep the two components from sticking to my fingers as I mix them, and to keep the mixed material from getting too sticky while I work with it.

Antenociti · Post by **Antenociti** » Sun Oct 22, 2006 4:50 pm

I take a piece of each part and roll them out into long thin sausage. Then twist the two sausages together. Then fold over until its a big ball, then roll out into a sauge again, twist, repeat - done.

Have never had a problem.

Mark Yungblut · Post by **Mark Yungblut** » Sun Oct 22, 2006 4:51 pm

Baby powder works okay for that but plain old corn starch works much better. First it is a much finer grain than babypowder and if you need to reactivate the sticky properties all you need to do is brush it with a little alcohol and a fine, soft brush. This will dissolve the corn sarch however, BP will not dissolve.

Typically for seam filling I thuroughly mix the A&B parts of the putty, then let it sit ofr 15-20 minutes. the really "gooy/sticky" properties subside after that amout of time and you should still have 30-45 min of working time.

As mentioned berfore, if you mix too much (always easier to add more than to take away) you can cut off the excess and put it on a piece of tin foil in the freezer. This will impead the curing to the point that you can thaw it and use it the next day (I do this all the time when I roll out sheets of putty for covering thing and scultping clothing).

Hope this helps,

Mark

Post by **TER-OR** » Sun Oct 22, 2006 9:04 pm

And remember, you can remove a lot of material before it cures. As noted, use alcohol to thin the product. Water will make it sticky and may cause a lesser quality texture.

A bush with alcohol can feather the product, and your sculpting tools should be moistened with alcohol and frequently cleaned. Alcohol on a paper towell will remove messes. When you have it how you want, you can use a little water to firm up the texture and give a glassy surface - it doesn't have to look perfect, the water will be absorbed like the working with cement.

An alcohol-moistned curved blade can quickly replace any panel lines you covered. Detail scribing can be added at the 2-3 hour mark.

I don't remember the last time I used a solvent-based filler other than Gunze's Mr. Surfacer. Really, I can't remember.

Another potential reason for flaking is the surface might have been too glossy, remember you should scuff up the surface just a little bit to aid adhesion.

Post by **LindaSmile** » Sun Oct 22, 2006 9:32 pm

Just one thing to add: Everyone's talking about different solutions to use with the Aves Sculpt, but their Safety Solvent is specifically formulated for that purpose. If you're having trouble with alcohol or whatever, try their safety solvent.

jack wendt · Post by **jack wendt** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 9:43 am

You can accelerate the cure time by placing it under a 100 watt lamp. Just be sure to not melt the surrounding project.

Species5618 · Post by **Species5618** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 11:53 am

Has anyone read AVES F.A.Q.?

http://www.avesstudio.com/FAQ_s/faq_s.html

First question is like Babaganoosh's.

Answer - Mix for 2 min and cure for 24 hours.

Digger1 · Post by **Digger1** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 11:58 am

LindaSmile wrote:Just one thing to add: Everyone's talking about different solutions to use with the Aves Sculpt, but their Safety Solvent is specifically formulated for that purpose. If you're having trouble with alcohol or whatever, try their safety solvent.

See, now that why you're our den mother. Not just 'cause you're married the the big cheese but becaue you do the rational thinking for us.

Thanks! I'd never have thought of that!