Styrene cements and construction

Got a question about techniques, materials or other aspects of physically building a model? This is the place to ask.

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prisoner_1079
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Post by prisoner_1079 » Sun Apr 03, 2011 1:31 pm

Wait so does this mean I'm a complete and total n00b for using Model Master Liquid Cement for Plastic Models?

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starmanmm
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Post by starmanmm » Sun Apr 03, 2011 7:12 pm

No... I use that on plastic. Love it.

Superglue or Epoxie is what I use for resin.
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AbsoluteSciFi
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Re: I use

Post by AbsoluteSciFi » Thu Apr 28, 2011 3:02 am

mightymax wrote:
As far as cleanup of the ruling pen. Really I seldom ever get any glop on them. when I do get a little dried melted styrene on them I simply open the apature a little wider and run my #11 blade through it and it pops right off.

As far as how it works. I think it works great. I load up the pen and place it where I want to start the glue application. I then pull it back along the seam and the glue flows out of the pen and into the seam.
I have a touch and flow and another bottle type applicator. My problem with the TnFlow is it is long and gangly and there are times I have lost control of it and the tool goes places I did not want it to. Couple that with the fact that if you pick up a TnFlow the glue forms a globule at the tip. This means as soon as I touch the seam I feel I have to much glue!
Also when my TnFlow runs dry I sometimes have a problem getting it to refill with glue.

Nope my drafting pen is irreplaceable.

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\
Have you considered a quill pen? The are dirt cheap and have many heads in a calligraphy set, all metal and won't wear out easily. Just dip into the tenax, or weld of your choice, then apply bearing down. Pen point accuracy!
The only thing I would watch out for is the tip of some quills are very sharp, and can score the plastics. But there are flatheaded quills, made for thicker apps.
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Kylwell
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Post by Kylwell » Fri Apr 29, 2011 10:24 pm

Rulling pens (also sometimes known as bow pens) are easier to clean and virtually indestructible. They're just a touch difficult to find some days.

& yes, I tried some of my calligraphy nibs, they don't hold as much and if you're unlucky enough to suck up some of the liquid styrene you end up leaving the nib in solvent to clean it.

With a rulling pen you just open it up and wipe or scrape the gunk out.
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AbsoluteSciFi
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Post by AbsoluteSciFi » Sun May 08, 2011 8:57 pm

Very true, I was thinking more of Rapidograph pens, which are not easy to clean, but come in many sizes...
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Glorfindel
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Post by Glorfindel » Sun May 15, 2011 7:53 pm

Mr. Badwrench wrote:I use a tiny hypodermic syringe for most applications. But a brush comes in handy quite often too. Sometimes I apply glue by knocking the bottle over and gluing everything on the table into a big, gooey heap.
No joke....I just did that with Tamiya Extra Thin about two weeks ago. History does indeed repeat itself! :D
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iSteve
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Post by iSteve » Mon May 18, 2015 12:13 am

prisoner_1079 wrote:Wait so does this mean I'm a complete and total n00b for using Model Master Liquid Cement for Plastic Models?

http://www.kitkraft.biz/files/images/d_73017.jpg
I've been using CA now for about the last 10 years or so for just about everything - gluing and filling mostly - on styrene. But I've been wondering if it wouldn't be such a bad thing to go back to the old school of "plastic cement" to kill two birds, as it were. I figure if I used the regular plastic cement, I can skip the "fill the seam" part because once dry, I can just sand off the excess and I'm done.

Thoughts?
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Post by Kylwell » Mon May 18, 2015 1:09 am

AbsoluteSciFi wrote:Very true, I was thinking more of Rapidograph pens, which are not easy to clean, but come in many sizes...
And will be attacked by most liquid cements. The bodies are ABS usually.
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