Got Resin?

Got a question about techniques, materials or other aspects of physically building a model? This is the place to ask.

Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators

User avatar
TER-OR
Site Admin
Posts: 10525
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2002 7:05 pm
Location: Conjugate imprecision of time negates absolute determination of location.
Contact:

Got Resin?

Post by TER-OR » Thu Jan 05, 2006 11:18 pm

Which resins have you used?
Which would you reccomend?
Which would you reccomend against?
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.

Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati

User avatar
modelnutz
Posts: 1598
Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2005 11:43 am
Location: behind the big desk

Post by modelnutz » Fri Jan 06, 2006 5:21 pm

I've used Smooth-on...and Industrial Polymer's.
CC-202 CC-200 real nice but tricky to work with...heating molds works well
SC-300 and 320 300 for small detail parts because it snap cures. Best stuff in the universe IMHO
320 is my standard casting material....real user friendly..very forgiving
Task 9 for high end industrial parts very tough when new...short shelf life tho
Used some Smooth-On low durometer stuff as well....not sure of the name. I'll follow up on Monday.

I'm sure that Im forgetting some ( lots) as I've been casting industrial parts at my day job for 'bout 5 years now and they let me play with materials quite a bit.

Modelnutz 8)
"gotta be a little crazy!"

Sparky
Moderator
Posts: 2404
Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 8:28 am
Location: Are we there yet? (Chicago)
Contact:

Post by Sparky » Fri Jan 06, 2006 6:08 pm

Don't forget the Clear resin:

Smooth-On's Crystal Clear 202 9 minuets of pour time, 90 minuets to 'full' cure.

I'll look at the one I use, it’s the longer pot life (pouring time) maybe the 200.

It took several months for the cockpit I cast to finally cure. You must pressure cast if you need crystal clear castings, and as stated in another thread by macfrank, heating the molds while/after the initial pressure casting time, is the only way to accelerate the curing. ( I also pre-heat the resin parts A and B but this will shorten the pot life I need a little more than 9 minuets to get my act together usually but not much more.)

I wear my respirator mask when mixing it although I've never noticed and odor it, same one I use when grinding resin or working in the atic.

There’s also EnviroTex Lite. Used to cover wood table tops with a thick clear coating. This is basically a 48 hour pot life 2 part clear cast resin. I foudn this locally at Ace Hardware and Menards (hardware) Our local hooby shop carrys a very small bottle set now too.

You don’t need to pressure cast it at all. BUT it has a noticeably low tensile strength. I put a small disk I made about ¼ inch think 2 inch in diameter in between the top of my white board and cube wall. Just to hold it in-place. It wasn’t a supper tight fit just the cushion of the fabric sub wall pushing the piece against the metal frame of the white board. A day later I took it out to show the guy that wanted to see it. The piece had a neat little mark where it had pressed against the frame. I left it out on the table, and a day later the mark disappeared. This piece is 2 years old. So it cannot be used in load bearing structures of heavy models.


Envirotex-Lite
http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/envtex/envlite.htm

Smooth-on's Liquid Plastics:
http://www.smooth-on.com/liqplas.htm
<a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/2_wheresaneatpart.jpg" target="_Sparky">Is this plastic thingy on the counter a neat part?</a> <a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/1_casting_inprogress.jpg" target="_Sparky">Let's cast it.</a>

macfrank
Posts: 8726
Joined: Fri Oct 11, 2002 6:55 pm
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Contact:

Post by macfrank » Fri Jan 06, 2006 6:51 pm

Envirotex has a problem with RTV mold material. The molds must be baked or aged to cook off whatever compound inhibits the Envirotex.

It's otherwise a good, cheap clear resin. It is soft, though.


Frank

User avatar
TER-OR
Site Admin
Posts: 10525
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2002 7:05 pm
Location: Conjugate imprecision of time negates absolute determination of location.
Contact:

Post by TER-OR » Sat Jan 07, 2006 12:21 am

I've found that if put a very thin coat of petroleum jelly on it, the silicone molds have no problem with Envirotex Lite.

I've come to prefer SC321 from Smooth-on for at-home unpressured casting. It's a slow-curing resin, so make sure your mixing is very good.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.

Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati

User avatar
modelnutz
Posts: 1598
Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2005 11:43 am
Location: behind the big desk

Post by modelnutz » Sat Jan 14, 2006 5:16 pm

Isn't Envirotex a form of E-Poxy? That would explaine the adverse reaction with fresh silicone....alcohol leaching from the silicone.
Alcohol thins epoxy :?

Modelnutz 8)

Sparky
Moderator
Posts: 2404
Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 8:28 am
Location: Are we there yet? (Chicago)
Contact:

Post by Sparky » Wed Mar 15, 2006 4:23 pm

Anyone tried smooth-on's new roto-cast resin :?:

or is the 20 min pot life 310 just the same goo
<a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/2_wheresaneatpart.jpg" target="_Sparky">Is this plastic thingy on the counter a neat part?</a> <a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/1_casting_inprogress.jpg" target="_Sparky">Let's cast it.</a>

User avatar
TER-OR
Site Admin
Posts: 10525
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2002 7:05 pm
Location: Conjugate imprecision of time negates absolute determination of location.
Contact:

Post by TER-OR » Wed Mar 15, 2006 8:44 pm

Yes, Envirotex is an epoxy. It's great for high-use furniture tops, it's very hard and very durable. It can be used at home in silicon molds as I mentioned, but you'll need to take care and give it two days to cure - and don't expect a big thick peice to work, it's not designed for thick applications.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.

Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati

User avatar
Treadhead
Posts: 2831
Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 6:34 pm
Location: Sacramento, CA
Contact:

Post by Treadhead » Tue May 09, 2006 11:53 am

Has anybody used Alumilite? I'm curious about how good it is.

I've used Kwik-Cast from TAP plastics... the stuff smells like cheap wine but otherwise I have had good results. You have about a 3 minute working time before it starts to harden. Shrinkage is a bit of a problem though, but using microballoon fillers will reduce this. Aside from the horrid smell, it isn't bad stuff.

Sparky
Moderator
Posts: 2404
Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 8:28 am
Location: Are we there yet? (Chicago)
Contact:

Post by Sparky » Tue May 09, 2006 12:46 pm

Just about all the companies make a 3 minute version, Smoothon has the fast set kinds in most of their versions of resin. The color match (325,326,327), the offwhite amber (320,321,322) and white (300,305,310) resins. The fastest set crystal clear version is 9 minutes.

I find the fast set stuff difficult to use, I like to mix a big cup of resin and fill a lot of little molds, that then have to be stacked in a pressure pot.
<a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/2_wheresaneatpart.jpg" target="_Sparky">Is this plastic thingy on the counter a neat part?</a> <a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/1_casting_inprogress.jpg" target="_Sparky">Let's cast it.</a>

Antenociti
Posts: 565
Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 8:43 pm
Location: Shrewsbury, UK
Contact:

Post by Antenociti » Wed May 10, 2006 6:40 am

UK stuff we use:

"Polyurethane Fast Cast" from www.tomps.com

or G26 biresin from Tiranti in London.

Both are good but we prefer the TOMPS one nowadays as it flows a little bit better and is a little bit cheaper, both resins are actually made in Germany

Garrand
Posts: 90
Joined: Wed May 04, 2005 12:46 am

Post by Garrand » Thu May 18, 2006 12:00 pm

I've used Alumilite. Captures detail well. I was still pretty inexperienced with casting at the time, so Ihad a lot of air bubbles (no mold release AT ALL), but its tough and pretty solid. After a while though, it seems the formula leeches moisture out of the atmosphere; I had a problem where during curing it would bubble. But this was with old bottles...

Damon.

Spacephrawg
Posts: 1020
Joined: Wed May 24, 2006 9:58 am
Location: Newton, MA

Post by Spacephrawg » Tue May 30, 2006 1:17 am

Re: smoothon resin, I interned at a sculpture casting place. I forget which smoothon they used, but the bos was the North East distributor for Smoothon. For all you locals, its Skylight Studios of Woburn MA.

Anyhooo the boss claimed that the stuff secreted oils over the course of a decade's time and the only paint that (he said) didnt flake off was something called Japan Color. Also he claimed that the stuff shouldnt be thinned at all when aplied because of...something. THe paint I might add was kinda thick.

I asked a guy on a modeling email list I'm on and he claimed that he'd never had that problem.

It should be noted that Skylight's boss was not a model builder. He said he'd tried all sorts of model paints and that Japan Color was the only one that worked.

The whole uncertainty thing has kept me from messing with Smoothon's resins so far but I havnt checked out any others yet so I have no further info.

Also, about epoxies, according to more than one source, epoxies become brittle with time. Be warned.
When life gives you lemons, don't despair. no one gives me lemons

Darkov
Posts: 268
Joined: Sat Jul 13, 2002 8:44 am
Location: Laingsburg, MI

Post by Darkov » Mon Oct 30, 2006 3:47 pm

I have recently started using Smooth Cast 305 and I gotta say I love the stuff. If I need a little more working time I use Smooth Cast 310. Both of these have produced excellent results for me. I was previously using Alumilite Regular....too short a potlife and too many bubble (even under pressure casting).
How do you know my dimwitted inexperience isn't really a subtle form of manipulation used to lower peoples expectations, thereby enhancing my ability to maneuver myself within any given situation?

Sparky
Moderator
Posts: 2404
Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 8:28 am
Location: Are we there yet? (Chicago)
Contact:

Post by Sparky » Tue Oct 31, 2006 12:33 pm

Garrand wrote:I've used Alumilite. Captures detail well. I was still pretty inexperienced with casting at the time, so Ihad a lot of air bubbles (no mold release AT ALL), but its tough and pretty solid. After a while though, it seems the formula leeches moisture out of the atmosphere; I had a problem where during curing it would bubble. But this was with old bottles...

Damon.
I think all resins have this issue. I had problems with my smoothon gallon jugs. There's a lot of volume in there and once you get down to half or 3/4 resin a lot of air resides in the container between pours.

Now I've added a dehumidifier to the basement and I have had a half gallon container sit for 6 months and cast just as good as the first cast.

If you are considering the extendit nitrogen gas cans they use to help extend the life of the resin, consider this. The gas is sprayed into the container and then you cap it. The gas shrinks. The container crushes inward. After you get to about 3/4 of a gallon your container is going to be collapsing a lot. With each use you are cycling form expanding the container to re collapsing it. Mine got cracks in the container. I was lucky and noticed them right after they formed. For a while I just left the container tilted so the fluid wouldn't spill. Then when I was mixing some rtv I put a finger dab over the crack. It sealed the breech. The end result is you can’t use the extendedit for very long. If you use 1/4 gallon every pour maybe you can use the extendit to preserve the resin parts between pours. Or just get a dehumidifier.
<a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/2_wheresaneatpart.jpg" target="_Sparky">Is this plastic thingy on the counter a neat part?</a> <a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/1_casting_inprogress.jpg" target="_Sparky">Let's cast it.</a>

Augustus
Posts: 1068
Joined: Sat Jul 13, 2002 10:30 pm

Post by Augustus » Sun Apr 01, 2007 7:41 pm

Nevermind. Got my answer. Smooth-on all the way.

User avatar
Kun2112
Posts: 314
Joined: Sat May 01, 2004 8:04 pm
Location: Celina, OH

Post by Kun2112 » Sun Apr 01, 2007 9:04 pm

Darkov wrote:I was previously using Alumilite Regular....too short a potlife and too many bubble (even under pressure casting).
Glad to hear it's not just me with this problem. Now I need to see if I can get my LHS to carry some smooth-on (need to keep the local guys in business whenever possible)
The Destructo Beam is the most powerful destructive weapon ever wrought by man. It is capable of vaporizing the Earth into.........vapor.

Dr. Snuts, M.D.
Posts: 1681
Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2006 4:33 pm
Location: San Diego
Contact:

Post by Dr. Snuts, M.D. » Fri Sep 21, 2007 9:44 am

I got my first order of resin this week. Its smooth-on 320 and I am amazed by the stuff. I have only handled a resin model once, maybe 15 years ago so this is my first real experience with the stuff. Its has about a 3 minute pot life and hardens real quick. I had some molds I previously made with smooth-on rubber. I had previously been trying to cast small parts on the cheap with liquid latex mold and fiberglass resin casts. This is an infinitely better way to go. much worth paying extra to get it done right the first time. I can't say enough good things about the stuff. I will still experiment with the other varieties they have though. They have a customer for life in me though.

User avatar
TER-OR
Site Admin
Posts: 10525
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2002 7:05 pm
Location: Conjugate imprecision of time negates absolute determination of location.
Contact:

Post by TER-OR » Fri Sep 21, 2007 10:30 pm

My only word of warning about the 320 is that it seems somewhat sensitive to mix ratio and such.

I measure in two cups, transfer to a third to mix, then to a fourth to mix some more. I found the less-than-completely mixed resin would not set up right. But yeah, I found it very easy to work with in a home setting, without pressure pots. Granted, I mostly do small bits.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.

Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati

User avatar
Lt. Z0mBe
Posts: 7229
Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 1:46 pm
Location: Balltown Kentucky, by God!
Contact:

Post by Lt. Z0mBe » Sat Apr 05, 2008 10:02 pm

I've used the last of the (coughcoughcoughcrapcough)Alumilite, and want to try some of the "Good" resins. I checked around, and can't find any little starter kits like with Alumilite. Does Smoothon and Envirotex (or other "good" brands) sell starter kits for learning with their brands?

Thanks in advance,

Kenny

www.sigmalabsinc.com


Onward, proud eagle, to thee the cloud must yield.

Sparky
Moderator
Posts: 2404
Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 8:28 am
Location: Are we there yet? (Chicago)
Contact:

Post by Sparky » Sun Apr 06, 2008 5:44 pm

Yes smooth on has starter kits. Be sure and get the longer set life for your first resin. Faster set stuff is/might be good for making a kit, where you know exactly how much to mix and where its going to be poured and need to make a lot very quickly. You may still need slower set stuff rather than risk poorly mixed casts.
<a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/2_wheresaneatpart.jpg" target="_Sparky">Is this plastic thingy on the counter a neat part?</a> <a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/1_casting_inprogress.jpg" target="_Sparky">Let's cast it.</a>

User avatar
Lt. Z0mBe
Posts: 7229
Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 1:46 pm
Location: Balltown Kentucky, by God!
Contact:

Post by Lt. Z0mBe » Wed Apr 09, 2008 10:28 pm

Sparky wrote:Yes smooth on has starter kits. Be sure and get the longer set life for your first resin. Faster set stuff is/might be good for making a kit, where you know exactly how much to mix and where its going to be poured and need to make a lot very quickly. You may still need slower set stuff rather than risk poorly mixed casts.
Sparky,

thanks for your sagelike wisdom, as always. :)

Kenny

www.sigmalabsinc.com


Onward, proud eagle, to thee the cloud must yield.

Sparky
Moderator
Posts: 2404
Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 8:28 am
Location: Are we there yet? (Chicago)
Contact:

Post by Sparky » Thu Apr 10, 2008 1:48 pm

Trial sizes are 1 pint each of part a and b (so a total pour able mix of 2 pints).

I suggest Smooth-Cast 322 - Trial Size
Click for more information $23.10

This is 20 min pot life 2-4 our demold with very little shrinkage 0.007 in/in. This doesn't include shrinkage due to pressure casting and air bubbles. . .

Smooth-Cast 321 has the same shrinkage factor but is 7-9 min pot life 30 min to demold. If you go to production this is what you may have to use.


If you want light able parts try the new Color match series, the old formula cured to a pine tree sap amber (ugly) the new stuff is milky white clear.
Smooth-Cast™ 327 10-20 minutes 2-4 hours
but shrinkage is a little higher 0.075 in/in costs the same:
Smooth-Cast 327 - Trial Size
Click for more information $23.10


<a href="http://www.smoothonsecure.com/store/ind ... 316b253809" target="_blank">hope the link works</a>

you can call in the order to bypass doing the internet transaction, be sure and tell them you want the cheapest shipping, on phone orders they default to their faster ups service.
<a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/2_wheresaneatpart.jpg" target="_Sparky">Is this plastic thingy on the counter a neat part?</a> <a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/1_casting_inprogress.jpg" target="_Sparky">Let's cast it.</a>

User avatar
Lt. Z0mBe
Posts: 7229
Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 1:46 pm
Location: Balltown Kentucky, by God!
Contact:

Post by Lt. Z0mBe » Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:46 pm

WOW! Thanks for that. I never thought to go straight to the manufacturer.

#-o

Do you use their silicone too?

Thanks!!

Kenny

www.sigmalabsinc.com


Onward, proud eagle, to thee the cloud must yield.

Sparky
Moderator
Posts: 2404
Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 8:28 am
Location: Are we there yet? (Chicago)
Contact:

Post by Sparky » Fri Apr 11, 2008 12:36 pm

Yes I use the mold max 30, there are notes in the RTV thread. Others user their mold max 40. You can mix it with a chef mate scale from Target so don't worry about getting a super accurate scale or anything.
<a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/2_wheresaneatpart.jpg" target="_Sparky">Is this plastic thingy on the counter a neat part?</a> <a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/1_casting_inprogress.jpg" target="_Sparky">Let's cast it.</a>

User avatar
Lt. Z0mBe
Posts: 7229
Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 1:46 pm
Location: Balltown Kentucky, by God!
Contact:

Post by Lt. Z0mBe » Fri Apr 11, 2008 9:55 pm

Sparky wrote:Yes I use the mold max 30, there are notes in the RTV thread. Others user their mold max 40. You can mix it with a chef mate scale from Target so don't worry about getting a super accurate scale or anything.
Thanks!! Now to move on to the "real" resin. :)

Kenny

www.sigmalabsinc.com


Onward, proud eagle, to thee the cloud must yield.

User avatar
Lt. Z0mBe
Posts: 7229
Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 1:46 pm
Location: Balltown Kentucky, by God!
Contact:

Post by Lt. Z0mBe » Tue Apr 29, 2008 9:44 pm

Question about the RTV silicone. If I'm wanting to make a two-piece mold and I pour in the first half, and let it cure, will the second half bond to the cured first half?

:-k

Kenny

www.sigmalabsinc.com


Onward, proud eagle, to thee the cloud must yield.

User avatar
Stu Pidasso
Posts: 19590
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2002 7:30 pm
Location: The Human Dutch Oven.

Post by Stu Pidasso » Tue Apr 29, 2008 10:44 pm

YES. ABSOLUTELY. Unless you use mold release. It acts as a barrier between the two halves. RTV only sticks to itself, so you don't have to put mold release on the master.
I got a sweater for Christmas last year. hope I get a screamer this year...

User avatar
Lt. Z0mBe
Posts: 7229
Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 1:46 pm
Location: Balltown Kentucky, by God!
Contact:

Post by Lt. Z0mBe » Tue Apr 29, 2008 11:41 pm

Thanks, Jimi!!

Kenny

www.sigmalabsinc.com


Onward, proud eagle, to thee the cloud must yield.

User avatar
Lt. Z0mBe
Posts: 7229
Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 1:46 pm
Location: Balltown Kentucky, by God!
Contact:

Post by Lt. Z0mBe » Sun May 04, 2008 9:11 pm

I have a question about the molds. I have RTV Silicone and I have latex mold-building compound. Can I make two-piece simple molds from latex too? Will it hold up to being demolded?

Thanks!

Kenny

www.sigmalabsinc.com


Onward, proud eagle, to thee the cloud must yield.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests