I know that the following questions ask may seem rather simple and that I'm a little stupid for asking them, but I am still near the beginning of my modeling capabilities. I mean, I've never done a scratchbuild or a kitbash model before, and I doubt I'll ever be as good as most of the people's work I've seen. I rather ask these questions and look like an idiot than to not ask them and create a LOT of errors in my first scratchbuilding project.
First off, the first couple of questions pretains to materials I am using for the model I'm scratchbuilding. I started out with the idea of using wood and some plastic pieces, but then decided to go full-on plastic. I am using a plastic sign (you know, the kind that you'd find at gas stations) designed for cigarette advertising that I have cut up into simple plastic pieces. It's the kind where you slide in a poster image for the cigarette on the top, the price for a pack on the bottom and the hang it from the ceiling to display. The top portion of the sign, where the card for the cigarette advertising card goes into is only 3 mm (0.3 cm) thick (think of 2and 1/2 or three Wal-Mart holiday gift cards glued together)
1. When I had cut the pieces of plastic, I didn't do a very good job at trying to cut the pieces straight. I had cut a small piece of plastic from that, which I then seperated into two pieces, one meant for the base of the model and the other for the archface. However, I still didn't cut the edges as even as I hoped. Is there any tools that can help me create even straight sides, either by helping cut new straight and even sides or maybe sanding the sides down to being even and straight or something?
2. I'm not sure how many use the normal Dupli-color paint on their models, but if I use the Dupli-color primer on my model, with the paint stick and stay on the plastic? Or will I had to use the clear coating that Dupli-color makes to ensure it stays where it belongs?
3. Other than using a dremel tool (which is what I used to cut the pieces of plastic in the first place, which resulted in the not so straight and even sides as I had hoped), what is the best cutting tool I could use to cut plastic?
This question is a bit different, not as related to the first three questions.
4. Is there any easy to use 3-D modeling software that isn't complex to use? I mean, I'm not a master at 3-D modeling programs, so I don't know how to build a wireframe model. I tried out one program called "Anim8r", but that still seemed too much for me. Is there any program where you can start of with basic shapes and then alter that, kinda like using putty, only in 3-D on the computer? Or should I just try to stick with my not so good looking drawing skills, which the only way for me to do a straight line is with using a ruler?
A few questions (a little help needed)
Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators
-
Mr. Badwrench
- Posts: 9587
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 6:31 pm
- Location: Wheatridge, Co.
1a: Cutting straight lines.
The scribe-n-pop method. The best way to cut plastic like this is to put away the dremel. Using the back edge of an X-acto knife and a straight edge, like a metal edged ruler, scribe a line in the plastic. Hold the ruler down firmly. Don't press very hard with the knife at first, just a little pressure. It should make a little curly chip of plastic. Follow this line several times, pressing down a little harder each time. After about half a dozen times, the line should be deep enough that you can set the ruler aside and continue to scribe without it. Once you are about half way through the plastic, you should be able to snap the pieces in half cleanly. If they don't want to snap cleanly, scribe a little deeper and try it again. Then on to step 1b.
1b: Smoothing the edges.
Get a piece of glass, an old mirror, glass-topped coffee table, something like that. Or a cheap marble kitchen cutting board. Flat is the key, but don't spend any money on it. Using double sticky tape or spray adhesive, attach a sheet of sandpaper to it. This makes a good lapping plate. Sand the edges of your plastic part by gently moving in a figure eight across the plate. Sometimes the part will be too big and flimsy to do the figure eight, but whenever possible, this is the best way to get a smooth, very flat, parallel edge. I use a couple lapping plates, with different grades of wet-or-dry sandpaper.
2: Paint.
I don't use duplicolor paint, but it should have no trouble sticking to the plastic. I don't think you'll need to use Duplicolor's clear coat, at least not to make the paint stick. If it doesn't stick very well, there are a number of things you can try. First, try lightly sanding the surface before painting. Some clear plastics are vert smooth, and a light sanding will give them a little tooth for the paint to hold on to. But it could be that the plastic is polyproplyne based, UHMW, delrin, nylon, etc. Nothing much will stick to these plastics. That is why they make glue bottles out of them. But if you have been gluing these things together already, and don't have any problem with it, then the paint should stick just fine.
4: 3-D software.
I'll let others chime in here, because I don't know much about this one. I use some professional grade 3-D machining software at work, but when it comes to modeling, I still use a pad of graph paper and my old drafting tools. Whether you use a pencil and paper, or software, you will still need to know how to draw. The software is just a different type of pencil. If you did not take any drafting classes in school, then go to the library or book store and check out a book on basic drafting practices. Nothing major, just learn to make orthographic and isometric views, a little about dimensioning, and section views. You'll be drawing like a pro in a week or two. Then decide if you want to stick with the old ways, or learn to draw with the computer.
The scribe-n-pop method. The best way to cut plastic like this is to put away the dremel. Using the back edge of an X-acto knife and a straight edge, like a metal edged ruler, scribe a line in the plastic. Hold the ruler down firmly. Don't press very hard with the knife at first, just a little pressure. It should make a little curly chip of plastic. Follow this line several times, pressing down a little harder each time. After about half a dozen times, the line should be deep enough that you can set the ruler aside and continue to scribe without it. Once you are about half way through the plastic, you should be able to snap the pieces in half cleanly. If they don't want to snap cleanly, scribe a little deeper and try it again. Then on to step 1b.
1b: Smoothing the edges.
Get a piece of glass, an old mirror, glass-topped coffee table, something like that. Or a cheap marble kitchen cutting board. Flat is the key, but don't spend any money on it. Using double sticky tape or spray adhesive, attach a sheet of sandpaper to it. This makes a good lapping plate. Sand the edges of your plastic part by gently moving in a figure eight across the plate. Sometimes the part will be too big and flimsy to do the figure eight, but whenever possible, this is the best way to get a smooth, very flat, parallel edge. I use a couple lapping plates, with different grades of wet-or-dry sandpaper.
2: Paint.
I don't use duplicolor paint, but it should have no trouble sticking to the plastic. I don't think you'll need to use Duplicolor's clear coat, at least not to make the paint stick. If it doesn't stick very well, there are a number of things you can try. First, try lightly sanding the surface before painting. Some clear plastics are vert smooth, and a light sanding will give them a little tooth for the paint to hold on to. But it could be that the plastic is polyproplyne based, UHMW, delrin, nylon, etc. Nothing much will stick to these plastics. That is why they make glue bottles out of them. But if you have been gluing these things together already, and don't have any problem with it, then the paint should stick just fine.
4: 3-D software.
I'll let others chime in here, because I don't know much about this one. I use some professional grade 3-D machining software at work, but when it comes to modeling, I still use a pad of graph paper and my old drafting tools. Whether you use a pencil and paper, or software, you will still need to know how to draw. The software is just a different type of pencil. If you did not take any drafting classes in school, then go to the library or book store and check out a book on basic drafting practices. Nothing major, just learn to make orthographic and isometric views, a little about dimensioning, and section views. You'll be drawing like a pro in a week or two. Then decide if you want to stick with the old ways, or learn to draw with the computer.
I speak of the pompatous of plastic.
What Badwrench said.
As far as easy 3D programs, try Carrara 3D Basics. If you're looking for something more sculpture based try Amorphium. I've heard good things about Rhino 3D but haven't used it personally so canna tell you how easy it is to use.
As far as easy 3D programs, try Carrara 3D Basics. If you're looking for something more sculpture based try Amorphium. I've heard good things about Rhino 3D but haven't used it personally so canna tell you how easy it is to use.
Abolish Alliteration
-
b5ranger99
- Posts: 548
- Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2004 1:11 pm
- Location: SC
- Contact:
The only input I would have is to agree with the answers already given the construction and paint question. On the 3D software check the sticky posting in the scratch building forum.
"When others do a foolish thing, you should tell them it is a foolish thing. They can still continue to do it, but at least the truth is where it needs to be."
Dukhat, Babylon 5
“Imagination is the only weapon in the war against reality.”
Lewis Carroll
Dukhat, Babylon 5
“Imagination is the only weapon in the war against reality.”
Lewis Carroll
