Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Spray it again with a "dull" coat, and the shinny will go away.

You can add me to that list too. Everyone ALWAYS over looks me. And I think I have been around longer too.

DOMENECH1776 wrote:Note: When I say "next few days", read 1-2 weeks.

Damn you! Damn you all to hell!!!! If you ain't gonna do it NOW, why tell us about it?? Do it, THEN tell us how it went. Now, I'll be waiting and checking to see if you did do it, and how it went. Damn tease.

Any liquid cement designed for plastic models. Testors, Tamiya, Tenax, Pro-Weld, MEK...

I'm using SmoothCast 305. Well, there's your problem. The slow set resin will always be weaker than the fast set. Again, it has to do with the chemicals that inhibat the cure. Get ye some 320. It's tan, and fast cure (10min demaold). But do casters out there really just add dye? Why on earth would ...

When you get there, ask if they have any broke sheets. It happens all the time, and they can't sell it. They may just give you a piece the size you need.

What Smooth Cast ## are you using?? Adding aluminum or any dyes will NOT change it's strength to stronger/firmer. And in fact, they make the resin weaker. Although by an amount that is pretty much negligible. To get resin that grey coour, a few drops of black dye are added to the white/tan resin. Th...

Get ye to the store of hardware. What you are looking for in the blue (or pink) insulation foam. It usually comes in 2' by 8' sheets, that are up to 2" thick. If you find the section for dock building, they might have the blue foam floats. They come in MUCH thicker sizes, in the 24" range....

VHH series from Plastruct.

3/8" Hemi


1/2" Hemi

DeltaVee wrote:You can putty the low side and/or sand the high side, but it will never be right, I'm guessing. .

Yeah, it will never be "right". But, if you do a little of booth, you can make it look pretty. A little putty, and a little sanding, splitting the difference.

Maybe you are better off just standing beside it all the time making the sound effects yourself. I'm mean, it's an option, so...

I know of no one that makes triangular strip of that size. Depending on the angles you need (right, equilateral, obtuse), you can make it pretty quick yourself. That might be your only option.

OK, found the link. Check out page 2, right at the top.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/starwarsbl ... 365192239/


There are a lot of other great shots in that collection as well.

A full sized TIE Interceptor has been built. If I remember correctly, by the guys of htr 501st. http://www.flickr.com/photos/jojopet/4897526148/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/evilbenius/4886618766/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/evilbenius/4886018041/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/evilbenius/4886616666/...

I can swing that. I'll just need to find a suitable container for rubber, and catalyst.

How much you need?? And I assume for molding?? Or are you making implants for the nurses??

You can paint over it with a clear pearl.

Dark Star wrote:

Kylwell wrote:... perhaps because photobucket doesn't support .wps formatting....

I tried others, txt, htm, doc, docx, etc......nothing works.

Uh... That's because NONE of those formats are photo files. It's called PHOTObucket for a reason. For other types of files, you will need a different service.

Bar wrote:Have you ever done a Tigermeet paintjob yourself at all?

Not exactly. I mean, I did do a 1/144 Tornado. But the Tigermeet stripes where decals, so...

Well, since most of the it is grey, and it's the lightest colour... I would start with it.

I use an automotive primer. It's a scratch filling, sandable primer. It's a little hot, but not too bad. It will melt 0.005" plastic I use from Evergreen, but has been safe on all other plastics. It's only $5.99 for a 284g can. MUCH cheaper than hobby primers. Iy dries fast, goes on smoothly, a...

Yes, there is a special tool just for this kind of thing. Sandpaper. :) Just sand one edge to the angle you want, and then glue it to the other sheet. Now, only sand one edge, and leave a little bit hanging over the edge. Then, once the joint has dried, sand that little edge flush. That will create ...

Just about any type of auto primer will work, and it's MUCH cheaper than the hobby stuff. I get a 340g can for $4.99. That's the BIG can. Of course, as always, test it on the plastic to make sure it's not too hot. You want a primer with a little more of a tooth (re: hot) to grip the metal, but not t...

Just remember though, the break with scribe and snap isn't always clean. The snapped edge may have a slant to it. So, cut over sizes by just a little. Scribe, snap, and sand the edge back to the real dimension you want. It's just that easy.

Laser cutting styrene isn't much better... Well, who ever set that up doesn't know what they are doing. Styrene cuts just fine (although acrylic is better). Either the laser is set to high, or the speed is too low. And for the perf look, it's probably the DPI that is set wrong as well (WAY too low)...

My question is, is it just a matter of making molds, pouring the resin in, popping mold w/resin into the pressure pot and applying air pressure? Pretty much, that's it. Now, about molds... Does the mold need special reinforcement? No I'll guess the mold needs to be designed a little bit special, li...

On occasion, a small piece will flake off. But generally, no. Are you using silicone or urethane?? Makes a HUGE difference. Silicone all the way baby!!

Yup, just a primer. Most of mine are oxide red instead of grey. I use a scratch filling auto primer, and it's a little hot, so I need to be careful. Not only does it help show any flaws, it covers many as well. Things like glue marks, and seams. And, it evens out the surface shininess. Most masters ...

rallymodeller wrote:I don't like to touch cones. They cost me two seconds each.

Here, you can GET points for hitting cones instead.

Yes, that's me in my old 280ZX.

It's no 280ZX, more like an early 80s Honda Civic Wagon.

en'til Zog wrote:What's the frustum of a scone?

I would need hard data for a specific scone. But, here is a calculator to do the math for any scone you like - http://www.aqua-calc.com/calculate.php? ... cated_cone