Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

And then fill the seams with putty? I suppose you would have to make sure the laminated sheets are bigger than the intended design, in order to sand them down into shape. Is there any special type of putty to use if I plan on resin casting the part down the road? I've been using the green Squadron ...

Usually you start with the bottom layer. Get that shape right, and glue it to another piece. Once the glue has set, you cut or sand the next layer until it is the correct shape, and so on. a better way can be working out exactly what shape each layer will be beforehand, and simply putting them toget...

anyone know of any places online t order and have it mailed, like, in a rolled up tube? Only really thin stock(5, 10, 15 thou) will be able to be rolled i think(I could be wrong on this), and it would curve the sheet to do so. Better to find a wholesalers locally, and get it from them by picking it...

Chacal wrote:And I would suggest starting small.

Like this stuff?(Biggest one is 5cm, and the smallest is 2mm)
Bar.

Consume you, it will!

kiwikaboodle wrote:Bar, that drydock is looking rather nifty mate!

The little one or the big one?
Bar.

roberticus wrote:How hard is it to work with?Say for example I wanted to make a drydock.What would you recommend?

It's super easy.
I made most of the scratches in my gallery with sheet styrene.
This.
These.
These.
This.
These.
And today, i made most of these.
And speaking of Drydocks...

Lonewolf wrote:That looks exactly like the one that I have at home.

Yes, me too, but it seemed a fairly reasonable price for it.

Bar.

I don't know if it's any help, but i found this on Ebay.
Bar.

Woaahhh! I thought this thread was long-dead!

It's maybe designed to be used on canvas?
It's a more forgiving medium(And little flakes won't make a lot of difference).
Bar.

LuiS_42 wrote:sent you the PM bro. thanks for the tips! i'll try that tamiya wash right now!

Make sure you try it on a useless piece first, just in case...
Bar.

I am working tomorrow, so i want to stay awake as long as i can, to get back into my normal sleep pattern(It's 1402 right now, and i'll be trying to wait until at least 1900 if i can).
My project is really shaping up(If you PM me an e-mail address, i can send you a pic or two of what i'm making).
Bar.

Not if it is dry. Future is an acrylic clear-coat.
Bar.

For a wash, i use Tamiya acrylic thinners. Various different mixes, but for something like the new Republic Star Destroyer(Just for example), a thin wash to bring out the panelling, i'd just do 80% thinners 19% black(1% luck..). I buy large bottles of thinners(Well, 250ml), but there is a thread her...

I use Tamiya acrylics, but i don't see that there should be any problem.
Do the usual and test it out on a piece of scrap styrene(Or an old AOL cd...).
Bar.

Anyone know a UK supplier for Plasti-Kote? Done a quick Google, but no luck ... I'm pretty sure Focus sells it(Maybe even Homebase). Another good spray-primer tip is that the stuff dries very quickly, so if you discover when you're spraying that there are holes still to be filled, spray a small amo...

I just glued my pylons with normal polystyrene cement, and they held very well.
It is a well-made kit, and doesn't need any re-inforcing.
Bar.

First i will apologise to DaveJames [/b] for the hijack, but will these techniques work for a sculpture made from sculpey? I am making a Han solo in carbonite scratch, and i want to make a mold to hollow-cast the result so i can drill it and light it from the inside. I also would like to make up a b...

I don't know...................
I'll see if there's room for some tank axles
Bar.

I have mountains of stuff for kitbashing. And almost all of my model tools are in a mechanics toolcase. This means i can take my hobby wherever i go(And i'm fortunate to have a job where i have the luxury of modelmaking while i'm there :D ). The problem comes when sometimes, I have a project on the ...

I bought this two-piece ornament in an art store recently. I didn't know why, i just did. I had an idea yesterday for an entry in the star wars competition, and was looking for a cockpit. I started some roughing out with blu-tack to get an idea and Here it is . Trust me, if i can get this thing look...

I tend to buy small cheap tank and artillery kits when i'm in model stores specifically for scratching, although i have a lot of kits lying around waiting to be made, and they're all fodder for a good scratchbuild if the parts look right. I even keep old sprue, in case it ever becomes the "righ...

w33bar: An odd question perhapse, but considering the cheap one-time expense of making your own machine, why outsource the making of vaccuform parts for your builds? I always thought it would be easier to simply get people with large/expensive professional machines to do a great job first time arou...

I've been working on a vacu-formed version of the mark1 jedi starfighter (just for me, before darth lucas sics his lawyers on my ass :D ). It's based on the hasbro toy, but will have a smaller gap between the halves representing a (slightly) more accurate version than the toy itself. The good thing ...