Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

If you get newer LED's you should be able to find Red and Green LEDs that want the same current. Once you have that they will look much more close in intensities. Put the 2 in series and add the correct resistor so that they are getting the same current and correct voltage. You have an existing circ...

That's for a count down clock rather than the 5 min warning lights. count down clock is the next step to sprucing up the game.

I had terrible luck with epoxy holding a single fiber to the face of an LED, and they were buried in a tube so getting them put back in place was not possible after the epoxy failed. Try the orderless CA and do not use kicker. The orderless reduces/eliminates the fumes that eat at clear plastics. An...

That's great it can be done pretty easily in a microcontroller or with a 4541 clocking a 4017. I'll have to think about how to stall the 4017 after the final light is reached. And a way to turn on the horn circuit (the on signal from the 4017 would leave a horn going for good). The mircorcontroller ...

Another quick question, power for the unit will be AC or batteries? Does he want the signal lights to be light bulbs (AC night light size or the chandelier size bulbs) or LEDs.

There is one time missing from the list, how long to keep the Light on, before starting the new 5 min count down.

Or do they want the light on time to be included in the first x units of time during the next 5 minute count down.

The design was Tony Augustin. I just put in the neon rope to hide the obvious pipe threads, and the LEDs replaced some other gribblies that kept popping off every time we opened the neck joint or even tightened it.

Here's 2 sample circuits. They are not strictly tested though, and there is no Clock circuit in here (use 1 clock circuit wired to all your chasers that way your nacelles are running at the same pace). http://www.kc6sye.com/images/circuits/ReverseChaser_4quad_series.jpg http://www.kc6sye.com/images/...

Take a look at the announcement on power supplies:

viewtopic.php?t=52577

In a nut shell 9 volt batteries are simply a pack of Quad A (AAAA) cells and can only put out 15 Ma of current before they start to warm up.

Those appear to be light bulbs and not LEDs. It might even, basically, be the same circuit from the other railroad sight. Edit; I checked Walther's website and they have a much closer-up view, the bulbs are light bulbs and not LEDs. The flicker effect may not translate to LEDs (I'm 90% sure that it ...

Here is a throbbing circuit in operation. Well 2 circuits the Yellow LEDs are in series and have their own circuit set to one throbbing rate, and the red LEDs are in series on another throbbing circuit with its one settings: http://www.kc6sye.com/images/images_05_04/5_12_04/14_thrbng_nck_pwr_leds_sm...

What effect are trying to achieve with the 3 flickering LEDs? Sparks/explosion or engine glow/throb?

you should be fine with that number of LEDs and plan dropping resistors. Its the 200 + LED setups that need to be laid out so that waste power is not an issue. Here's a circuit that I was able to get to work with an LED, tweaking the bias resistors. We wanted an LED that could )through fiber optics)...

LEDs do run color, but high output ones still get very hot. Not that modeler's would need or wnat to spend the money on those types of LEDs. If you use a dropping resistor, please remember the power dropped in the resistor is converted to thermal energy. It's best to design the power system (batteri...

Check out the youtube video about 9 volt batteries. They are made of AAAA cells I believe. So in a pinch you can field strip a 9 volt to get very low run time 'A' size cells (fits AA,AAA,or AAAA) for a critical device needing them.

Just an interesting fact about 9 volts.

The first thing that comes to mind is the pdf on basic soldering take a look at this page:
http://www.n0ss.net/index_general.html

search for soldering its a ways down there right after the resistor color code chart.

The way to change the circuit to reverse chase, appears to be as mentioned. I'll reiterate though: The counter turns on an output (raises it to Vcc) while all other outputs are pulled to (GND). [Off outputs are not left floating, aka tri-stated). To generate the walking Off LED effect you flip the L...

I started with the SAM's books and circuits. If you can find them at the library they should get you started with basic Ohm's law and that's the basic lighting. When you move onto animitronics (timed light actions) then you'll need some more, but then you won't be worried about power and resistors c...

It would've been fine if all the outputs sourced the same current, but they didn't the number 1 spot and number 8 spot where half the LED light of the others.

It's actually worse than that. (I hadn't noticed a diode in the original circuit, diodes eat 0.7 volts off hte power supply voltage). I did a circuit with a Johnson counter, and found that 2 of outputs were noticeably dimmer than the others. I changed chip, LEDs and nothing helped. The conclusion is...

The confusing info may have been generated by slipping the current you put into the formula, IE if its a webpage based calculator, make sure you put the correct current in there. If it asked for millamps make sure you put 20, if it asked for amps make sure you put 0.020. Also note that your Green LE...

Just a quick check of the math should help: I checked the link you sent there is a technical specs (thank the maker) Forward Current the LED wants 20mA: I = 0.020 (max 0.030) V Forward Voltage of the LEDs = 3.3 Volts (max 3.8) Voltage of supply = 9V 3 LEDs in series (voltage adds current is constant...

shouldn't be to hard. For the wave cannon effects you mention someone that can program a micro controller is your best bet. This will also help if you want to turn off and on any of the other effects (blinking nav lights, targeting lights and the launch bay). For the static effects plastic fiber opt...

My 10L pressure pot arrived yesterday. I managed to hook it up and have found a bit of a pressure leak, nothing huge, a couple of PSI over half an hour. I've got some plumbers tape to go around the valve ends. Hopefully that should sort it out, but I'm open to any other suggestions, if anyone has a...

Here's what I've observed: If you roll a flat back on a mold and leave it on the desk the mold will cure with the large air pockets in the casting and any micro bubbles on the surface detail of the castings, no warpage. We have all gotten parts in resin kits that didn't sit flat against each other, ...

Shrinkage due to resin cure is noted on the resin product sheet. Usually the faster the cure the greater the shrinkage factor. I don't think a pour stub will help with this, this shrinkage occurs through the cure cycle (after the resin is hardend enough to be unable to draw in more resin from a plug...

Here's a source someone just got some surface mount LEDs from. The price on their LEDs seems high, though the output may be vary bright compared to traditional sources of LEDs (digikey or mouser). But the thing that caught my eye is the magnet wire that strips via heat application, aka pre tinning. ...

Even better did you see their special magnet wire? It self strips as you heat the wire to pre tin it! no more scraping

I found a website that had a chart I'll see if I can find the bookmark.

But it also depends on the wire. Some of the stuff from mouse is all copper, some is tinned copper, those alloys will have different resistance per foot specs and thus a different loss chart.

I had to think about this and think about it. And check with some of the other engineers around here. There is only one issue that we could come up with for why you can't use a common negative return (aka ground) for multiple different battery voltages: When you run a line from a battery to a circui...