Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

This is just a thought for you guys who run into this. I have never tried it, as I have had excellent luck with resin kits. If the issue is uncured resin leaching out, what about going to Wal Mart and purchasing some of that fluid clean up granules? Then, take affected kit and bury it in a bucket o...

Just got confirmation....it's on it's way!

Walked in the door from work and just ordered #2. Now it's off for some food, beer, and Hangover 2. Hope I get some good previews tonight!!

Guys this is useful info. I didn't expect this much response. This is excellent!

Boys you've really shed some light on this topic and rather quickly. Would most of you say that Chopper 2, being the successor, is an improvement over 1 because it reads like most of you prefer 2 over 1. (there's a diaper joke in there somewhere) :D A few questions: 1. How long would you say did it ...

Yeah, that's the type of response I'm looking for....people with experience with it.
Thank you.

Has anyone ever tried any of these products from Micro Mark? http://www.micromark.com/Chop-It,9547.html http://www.micromark.com/Duplicate-It,9546.html http://www.micromark.com/Wood-Strip-Cutter,6625.html Or these from NorthWest Shoreline (looks as if the Chop It is theirs too) http://www.nwsl.com/t...

I see that 2009 was the last post on this thread but I have a few items I keep in my tool box. First are some scribing aids. Most people draw out panel lines but never say what they draw them out with. I'll lend a little advice that works well for me. I draw panel lines out first using a very dark l...

I use a tiny hypodermic syringe for most applications. But a brush comes in handy quite often too. Sometimes I apply glue by knocking the bottle over and gluing everything on the table into a big, gooey heap. No joke....I just did that with Tamiya Extra Thin about two weeks ago. History does indeed...

Not sure if I should tack this onto the tutorial or not, but it is about scribing. I'm sure someone will move it if need be. I have one of these scribers: http://www.micromark.com/PANEL-SCRIBER-FOR-PLASTIC-MODELS,7194.html Love the thing, it works really well for me. After doing a 1/96th scale wars...

Those wire wrapping tools are great. Excellent for resistors, LED's, and Kylar wire....don't forget the Kylar. This tool seems like it's made for the stuff.

I agree with AbsoluteSciFi. A good warm bath in a mild dish washing detergent works great at removing mold release off both styrene and resin. And then for good measure put your parts in. Uh, put your sprue trees in with your...Oh, forget it. Just wash the model.

Thank you Sir.

I'd like to think I know the answer is "no" to this question but I'm going to ask it anyway. These decals I see in previous posts on this thread are they printable on, say, an HP All-in-One printer? Not Laser printer of course...I'm only curious as to why it wouldn't work. I'm assuming the...

Loenen they are for you!
(Hey Face I see a cover charge $)

It's not the pasts, it's Epoxy Sculpt. I do love this stuff. It's help correct many a thing.

TER-OR wrote:I've stopped buying the large bottles of CA. Half of it goes bad before I can finish using it. I blame the cats.

What do they sniff it?

So the 1000 stuff can be airbrushed if thined 50%/50% with Mr. Surfacer thinner? Yes. I use more like 70% thinner though. Wow, that's thin! I've been toying around with the idea of shooting Mr. Surfacer for priming but I never thought of thinning it down so much. I mean it makes sense because it dr...

Keep em' coming kid. They serve a purpose and are informative to people who are new to the hobby. They're like Oreos, you just can't have one. Or is that another commercial...?

Generally have no problems mixing Aves though the last time I opened it part 2 seemed to be drying out far faster then part 1. I can screw a top on but feel there's something up with my part 2. On the subject of Aves I know somewhere on this thread there's mention of thinning Aves with a solvent of ...

I picked up a can of Rust-oleum gray automotive sandable primer. The AutoZone I went to did not have the Duplicolor brand primer. The nozzle is a much larger button and had no problems shooting paint. The psi shooting out I think is stronger than the Krylon (when those cans did work) and also is a f...

On a side note: I bounced an E-mail off the folks at Krylon this morning explaining my rattle can problems and so far received an auto-response saying I will be notified by somebody, by way of E-mail, within 24 hours. They'll probably gift me a subscription to Field and Stream magazine.

OK this evening I switched the nozzles on two cans ( one that works fine to one that's dead silent) Nothing happened. I should have switched to decaf instead. Dave that's a great idea....I'll be hitting the auto store on my way to work tomorrow. Thanks for the tip...I'll be showing the Krylon the fr...

By the way I love the video!

No, these are brand new un-used cans this happens to. Though I will try swapping out buttons.

Anyone have problems spraying Krylon gray primer in the rattle can? I have purchased several and most seem not to shoot when the button is depressed. This happens with brand-spanking new cans!! Very frustrating.:evil: And its funny because I never had problems with Tamiya sprays before I picked up a...

Definitely something I need to remember looking forward.
Thanks Ky.

Will too much thinner such as turpenoid in a wash (oil based) ruin an acrylic base coat through a clear coat finish? In my old art school days I can remember that oils go on top of acrylics but not vice versa. I'm only curious because I've never washed a model with such a high ratio of thinner to pa...

Has anyone tried Gorilla glue on F.O.? I'm guessing its exactly like Crazy glue/CA.

Toying with the idea of putting in a targeting computer and having it back lit with an optic. Food for thought.