Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Super glue (it can still frost the lens, be careful) 5 minute epoxy, hot glue and JB Weld are all in my bag of tricks for securing LEDs.

Cheapest way would be to get a string of LED Christmas lights. Use some cram-fu and your done!

Thanks, it's close. I hope to have it and a few others finished for Wonderfest.

Again, great work on yours. Very cool loooking!

Very nice work. I love the flicker effect. Oh, and that other thread would have been mine, LOL. It got put on hold as real life has gotten in the way. I got married, daughter and grandkids moved in, etc......

Very nice work!

That switch will work. All you have to do is cut your negative wire and solder one end to each pin on the bottom of the switch. I have done it on the negative and postive side on different models, but usually the negative. So you would have negative wire coming from the battery to one pin on the swi...

When are you removing the masking after painting? If you wait for the paint to completely cure, your going to get a more pronounced demarcation between colors. I would wait about an hour after painting and then remove your mask. Depending on the masked subject, I may remove my masking as soon as the...

With the new 1/24 Spinner from Blade Runner coming very soon from Fujimi I new I had to have this kit. It's been one of my favorite scifi vehicles of all time. http://www.hlj.com/product/FUJ09132 Seeing as how I love to light models I knew lighting this kit was going to be a challenge because of all...

Yep, that's the way to do it. If you have a fiber sticking out, put the glue in the hole, and then pull the fiber in, there wont be much glue left in the hole to hold the fiber securely.

This works best after the holes are drilled and the model painted, but not fully assembled. Mushroom an end, insert into drilled out window, put a dap of white glue or epoxy an inch or so down from the mushroom and the pull the FO from inside. this should seat the FO just fine. Complete the final as...

Your welcome! you can mushroom the end of FO to get a bigger point of light. Hold the end of the FO close to a heat source like a candle flame (be careful!) after a second or so it will mushroom. It will take some practice to get a nice round lens. This also helps to keep the FO from pulling thru th...

I have used Tamiya clear reds, blues, greens and yellows on several builds. It works quite well in my experience. In this pic you can see the richness of the colored FO even when being flooded from above with a white LED that was tinted blue! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/directorcass/043-1...

I don't want to step on the toes of the pro lighters so I withdraw my offer and services.

Thanks.

I don't have anything against any of the major lighting kit suppliers here as they provide a great prooduct for those who don't have the time, skill or even the gumption, to build a lighting system themselves. I will say that building a simple lighting system for a model is not rocket science. There...

George, I don't know what your talking about. I don't know anything about lighting a Star Destroyer.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1168773829 ... stroyerWIP#

Too Old, PM incoming.

Stu, you may be thinking of the conductive glue, it was a black gel that wasn't very conductive at all.

These have been talked about before here. Yep, just a tube with LEDs in the ends. You can make your own cheaper.

Your welcome!

What wires do you have attached to your switch? Between the battery and LEDs you should have a black wire from the battery going to the switch, and then another black wire going from the switch to the LEDs.

Search for "warm white" LEDs. They have more of a yellow tinge to them similiar to incandescents.

so, robi, any progress?? just wanting to see how this works. It's coming, real life has just been real busy and getting in the way of everything lately! Though I do not have the Mercury 9 finished yet I will say that I wholeheartedly endorse this electronic board. It is just too awesome and the wir...

I just got in supplies from plastruct. Then I had to get ready for Wonderfest. I will post a thread real real soon though.

Experiment and practise is the best advice! Thanks G-Man. I love the A-10 too. This was actually a frankenstien kit. It is the Tamiya A-10 with the Revell cockpit. The Revell kit has molded open decelerons and a molded open canopy, no option. The Tamiya has these closed but it has a crappy cockpit. ...

You can also us Silly Putty. I used that on my 1/48 Tamiya A-10.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/ ... ss/583.jpg

O.K. folks I got the new lighting kit from Caliber Mengsk a few days ago. I am going to use this in the Pegasus Mercury 9 rocket ship. With that I was asked what features I would like to have the board programmed to do. I requested several steady on, three blinking (with on/off times programmed at m...

Exactly. The other LEDs dont matter at this point. What you want is to know what resistor to use for your red LEDs and a 9v power source. The white ones wont effect the answer to that question.

Input the specs for your red LEDs here and your source voltage. It will tell you what resistor to use.

http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

I might have to give him a shot. He has some neat packages available.

Tetsujin, I am sending you a PM.

Thank you tetsujin, that was awesome. But, it was over my head on the technical side. So, let me ask this question. Could you use one of your boards to mount momentary switches to it, and have it control 5 LEDs? Push one button and one LED comes on, push again and second comes on, push the other but...

So some of you may have seen my Cricket Phaser threads. One was built with a Playmates board with limited functionality, the other was built with an expensive board. Here's my question for you tech savy members. With very limited space, how can I have hook up 4 or 5 LEDs and have them come on, one a...