Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Windex, preferably with ammonia.

Did you have a resistor on them when you tested them with a 9 volt?

if it's anything like previous offers you'll need to double hit it to get a good solid white.

I'm sure some kid out there has passed out trying to huff it.

jpolacchi wrote: ↑Tue Jul 09, 2019 6:58 pm Unless it is Elmer's glue,pretty much everything is hazardous.

even that can be an issue

Recent findings have found that some chemicals, like those found in some hobby/art paints, can accumulate over time. There's a reason lead is no longer used but they've also found aluminum too can be hazardous. Long chain stable molecules are particularly hard to rid the body of. Guess what kind of ...

I live in a very dry state so static is a constant problem. I've got a bottle of water that I use to mist my room before any critical painting. Keeps the dust & cat hair out of the air.

Papilio. Opaque but very thin.

Depending on the thickness it can take several weeks to fully cure out. zI've yet to have any not cure clear, eventually. Thin layers will cure out fster but if you rush them a bit you'll still end up wuth a layer going opaque and take a while to cure out. Watch Crystal cement or Testor's Canopy cem...

Give Mr Hobby Limonene glue a try. Non-toxic and works well. Well since Weldene seems to be no more, I'll have to try other glues. I'll put Limonene on my list of hobby stuff to get. Thanks. It also comes in a really handy pen version https://www.gundamplanet.com/mr-cement-limonene-pen-extra-thin-t...

Oddly enough I've found Yakult bottles are great for decanting. The narrowed neck keeps the stuff from foaming over.

Give Mr Hobby Limonene glue a try. Non-toxic and works well.

Needle files! https://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-needle-file-set-468.html If those are the same needle files I saw at Harbor Freight brfore they sre garbage - stripes of metal with grit glued on which comes off quickly. Needle files will do the job for you, but invest in some Xacto versions- th...

All depends on the depth of the scratches and their density. Usually you polish out the worse then dip it. Start with a medium grit paper and wet sand it. Rinse well between grits. Even when working up to 8000 grit a dip in Future will improve it.

IIRC the original system was meant to use laser toner as a blocking agent, which is why the need for a hot laminator.

Using spray on etching blocker eliminates the need for the laminator

It's not that hard since photo-reactive masking material has gotten cheaper. MicroMark offers a kit and even SSM has an article on it. Really need to bug Frank to update this. http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/fh_pe.htm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NntLi4KcLlI

A "44" means it should be 5.4mm in diameter. There are a dizzying array of diameters & heights. And composition & amperage. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Button_cell

Andrew Gorman wrote: ↑Wed Jan 09, 2019 12:50 am ...My only regret is the big box of "stuff to re-file" that builds up over a very brief time.

I hear that. There was a time when all my Lego was sorted & organized by shape (and some even by color). A decade later I've got 3 banker boxes of unsorted pieces. *sigh*

I swear by the Mr. Color Mr. Surface line. Mr. Surfacer 1000, 1200, 1500 got on thin & tight. I'll use Tamiya Fine White if I'm out of Mr. Surfacer. Beyond that I have used Vallejo's polyurethane & Model Air primers. The polyurethane primes aren't necessarily made to prime, then sand. They c...

Tenax, which is no longer available, is about as hot as Plast-i-weld in my experience. It's about middle as the liquid glues go. Tamiya is less hot, Weld-on is hotter. There are people who will mix 50-50 Tamiya extra thin & Plast-i-Weld to get a happy medium. Gunze also makes liquid glues and th...

As someone who can directly attest to what decades of chemical exposure can do to your lungs I shy away from solvent based putties. Aves is my putty of choice. It's about as hard as styrene, can be machined, polished, and scribed. Because of it's similar softness you have less of a chance of develop...

I use acrylic cement, which has some methylene chloride in it. Works great on Styrene, ABS, acrylics, plexiglas and most rigid plastics. I get it locally at TAP Plastics, but there are other versions. It is pretty similar to Ambroid Pro-Weld, but a lot cheaper: https://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/p...

My glue of preference is Flex-i-file's Plast-i-weld. MEC based so it doesn't melt your brain like MEK. For non styrene based you've got 2 options, Cyanoacrylte (Super glue) or 2 part epoxy. CA makes for a strong bond provided there's a smooth surface and it's not a low energy plastic like PETE, PTFE...

I just use sulfur free plasticine clay. If it's too tacky, toss it in the freezer.

He's painting gloss white. Very thin coats. Check the can he's using.

Interesting. I wonder if it shortens the mold life?

Most of those are boosters and need the air to be already moving to work. There are one that can act as a primary the big thing you have to worry about is blowing flammables though it if it doesn't have shielding to stop the motor sparks from igniting the fumes. Then you get what's know as a thermoj...

Gloss coat - honestly can be anything that's non water soluble. Acrylics are non water soluble once cured. Set decal in water then apply MicroSet to the area you're going to but the decal on. Once decal is throughly wetted remove from water and let rest on a nonabsorbent surface. Once the decal can ...

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