Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Ok. If my score wasn't geeky enough, I have one of these that I use when I read in bed (no, I didn't pay that much for it). So, since I don't have an immediate need for the tea lights, now I have an extended supply of batteries for the reading light.

I attended my nephew's wedding this past weekend. They chose to use the flickering LED tea lights as part of the centerpieces at the tables and being the geek of the family, I managed to bring home a bag of around thirty of them. :8) I think if one were to gang three of these things together, the ef...

I made an electric sander out of a battery operated toothbrush, some self-sticking Velcro disks and various grades of sandpaper. I also make CA applicators from sewing needles by cutting off the top of the needles' eyes (this was mentioned in the other thread).

These things may not be as delicate as they should be but they are simple to use single-handedly.

I had toyed with the idea of adding green laser pointers to my MIM resin kit as it is hollow as well. I wasn't going to use them as the "weapons" but was going to mount them in the three gravity projectors on the bottom. The ship was going to be pole mounted in a diorama. This would give ...

A few years ago, FSM printed an article where a guy hacked one of those little am radios (the kind you get for free a a promotional item) to have the earphone output drive a red LED. He used it to light a campfire in a diorama. I don't remember all the details but, at the time, the idea seemed like ...

That sounds great, John!

I built a booth from a plastic storage bin, a bathroom fan, a small fluorescent light, a dryer vent/hose and some electrical bits. It has served me well. It's also pretty portable. I just put the vent and hose assembly inside and close the lid. the fan sticks out the back but it's not a problem to c...

I voted for the wireless transfer (induction?)- In particular I would love a nit which could be built into a stand and a smaller/cheap reciever that could be installed in several models so I could light something by just putting it on the stand, swapping as I felt like it. I have to rotate my model...

A lot of folks who produce resin kits actually take the time to knock off some or all of the flash, when possible, before kits are packed up for sale. I consider that extra attention to detail a customer service thing. They certainly don't have to do that. I assume that some flash is unavoidable. Ho...

I kick myself every time the subject of oscilloscopes comes up. :evil: I worked at a technical college a few years ago. They had a pretty nice dual-trace scope from one of the electronics labs that the facilities manager couldn't figure out how to fix. He let me have it so I took it home and opened ...

For the record, 1/4 watt resisters should be fine for the applications that I described above. The circuits as decribed shouldn't generate much heat at all.

You didn't say if you have a current limiting resister in line with that LED that's running off 9v by itself. With that much voltage, you're going to need one, otherwise the LED WILL get hot (but only for a second before it quickly burns out :lol: ). You also didn't say what color the LED is. White ...

Here's my suggestion for a simple "geting started" lighting gig. I slapped together an ST Nemesis Scorpion just to do a lighting test and got passable results. It just has two blue and two amber (yellow) LEDs running off a 9v battery. This was a while ago so I'll have to tear it appart to ...

I'm definately no expert here but this whole mixture seems counterintuitive to me. I use Windex to strip Future when things don't go as planned. I understand the benefits of using Windex to encourage acrylic paint to flow better from an airbrush and I'm assuming he would have used a very small amoun...

I think he meant water (H2O). I believe the Windex is to cut the surface tension and make it all flow better. I could be wrong.

I've been using one of these for the past couple years now. Probably the same thing. Even though you're supposed to be ABLE to cut wire with them, if you plan to use it to cut sprue, I recommend using it ONLY to cut sprue. Cutting wire eventually dulls the blades but mine is still shiney and sharp s...

How about this?
(google searched 4.5v AAA battery holder)
I also found a couple auctions by a wholeseller in Hong Kong on ebay.

There are a number of programs available on this site for free. A couple of the circuit design apps look promising. I ordered the CD a few months ago but I haven't had a chance to really play with it. I wanted it so I could try out the PCB layout programs. Most of the applications are engineering le...

The problem could actually be much simpler. If you spend too much time with the soldering iron actually in contact with the LEDs' leads, you run the risk of causing heat damage which can shorten the little guys' lives. An LED is actually a tiny junction between two chemicals which are usually very s...

I mostly agree. You will need 2 of the 4049s, though. Remember that the 4049 outputs are only rated for 5ma max. Yeah, I forgot to mention that. You need one inverter (not gate) per output from the counter. Since the 4049 only contains six inverters (that's why it's called a hex inverter) and your ...

I'm not sure of the proper connections but you should be able to put a hex inverter (4049 chip) on the output of the counter (U2 in the circuit you linked to). The inverter will tell the LEDs to turn off then the counter says "on" and vice versa. I believe that will accomplish what you're ...

I've experienced the effects you're describing when I've used old cans (I mean a couple of years). I've had unused rattle cans of Testors paint (two or three years old) that have had no problems but, sometimes if the can has been used, and then let sit for a long time, the propellant apparently leak...

Here's what I do: Get the mating surfaces of the two parts to be joined as smooth and gap free as you can. Then place a generous drop of paint in the spots where you want the pins to go on one of the two mating surfaces. Next, carefully dry-fit the two parts together, making sure the drop of paint o...

My guess it those boards weren't meant to drive LEDs. I doubt that chip is anything more than a custom brute force sequencer and the transisters are there to provide isolation for the four series strings. Since the chip is probably built to run off 110v rectified, it probably wont function on anythi...

MillenniumFalsehood wrote:There's a much cheaper lighthouse kit for model railroaders available somewhere that seemed like an ideal cheap way to get a phototorp launcher, but the site it was on escapes me.

Is this what you're talking about?

Here's another alternative. It was designed specifically for the 1/350 NX-01 kit. Still could be kinda spendy for 3 kits but I have this one and it's worth every penny.

I was afraid you were going to ask that :D To be honest, I never actually used it myself but the idea is to fill the voids inside the model to add structural strength. Build up the major components of the model, allowing a small hole at one point and at least one or two holes in another, in an oppos...

All I can say is careful cutting/edge sanding will be your friends and expanding foam (from a hardware store) will be your ally

Good luck

I use Microscale Industries' Micro Krystal Klear. You can pick it up at just about any well stocked hobby store. It's also great for gluing canopies.