Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I can do this as a completed and tested module (preferred, that way I can test it before it goes out), a parts kit, or a pre-programmed chip with a schematic. Lest I give the wrong impression, I test all chips before I send them out. Here I am again... The fader unit does NOT what I want it to do. ...

jwrjr wrote:It's fairly easy for me to program a controller to do that. But if you've found an off-the-shelf product to do what you want, go for it.

Maybe I`ll come back to that if the fader won`t do what I intend. I`ll keep it in mind.

SGluedMyFingers wrote:Fader units here

Perfect!!!

Many thanks for that link!

Hi, I`m playing around with the idea to equip Scale Solutions "Tin Man" from Star Trek: TNG with slow pulsating LEDs, to enhance the "it`s alive!"-effect. Not blinking (that would be easy), more "bionic". What I want to have is a cluster of 4 or 5 LEDs that fade slowly ...

Matter of fact here's that link: http://www.flex-i-file.com/html/adhesives.html Also, about half way down you'll see the stand I was talking about----it's called the Fill n Clean. Heavy base to hold your glue, and it won't tip over. If you're as clumsy as I am, I recommend it. :wink: That is cool, ...

One thing you must get if you want superior results is the Touch-n-Flow applicator. [/i] I have one too, and when it works it is a wonderful tool... ...sad that most the time when I want to use it the needle seems to be blocked (although I carefully cleaned it when I put it away the last time), and...

Ah, i have lots of that kicking around. Yeah it's really sticky. I'll try it again soon. So you just shot a small amount on the styro. Did you have to 'move it' with a stick or something to get it to cover the styro. I assume you had the styro on a wire up in the air. You can still see the "ma...

thanks, no i didn't have any styro spheres to use. I'm gonna pick some up. your photo is great, thanks, and the tips too! This method will be an asset to many modellers. It's relatively inexpensive too. Did you use the regular expanding foam or the low expansion variety? You don`t need styro sphere...

Maybe this picture will help, it is my explosion without color, close-up: http://www.phoxim.de/marco_scheloske_thunderchild/marco_scheloske_thunderchild01.jpg You didn`t use a core from foam, did you? That helps to prevent that the foam-glob will become a pancake while you form it with the stick. I ...

Here is a question. Is there anything that would serve as a resist for the expandable foam? Certainly when casting, there are substances that are used to make it so that the filler does not adhere to the mold. If you have a spherical mold properly treated, I wounder if that might work. IIRC from Ma...

SpaceDuck wrote:I hesitate to try a car since sometimes in this humidity I see condensation in autos overnight?

A car window will definitely contain UV-blockers.

Maybe you could use lightsheet instead? A quick google has reveled it is not cheap. I think I need a way to diffuse the light evenly (and cheaply) Yes, it isn`t cheap, but it looks really cool - I used it for my "Chevron 7... activated" - diorama: http://www.starshipmodeler.org/gallery8/m...

Maybe you could use lightsheet instead?

TREKKRIFFIC wrote:Try using a white gel ink pen. Works great for me.

Yes, I used such a pen before, but when you have to make many straight lines of equal sized windows nothing beats those decals...

Can someone show me how they look on the model before i splash out? Here they are on the RODGER YOUNG: http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/Callamon/A24RYMS.jpg http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/Callamon/A20RYMS.jpg http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250/Callamon/A19RYMS.jpg Could you try...

robgmun wrote:Can someone show me how they look on the model before i splash out?

Here they are on the RODGER YOUNG:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250 ... 24RYMS.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250 ... 20RYMS.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t250 ... 19RYMS.jpg

I'm working on the Replicas Unlimited Cylon Basestar, and I'm looking for a way to do all those tiny windows. Ideally, I'd like to find someone who already makes rows of tiny white dots as decals, but failing that, is there anyone who will custom-print some for me based on a PS or other image file?...

I have a touch and flow and another bottle type applicator. My problem with the TnFlow is it is long and gangly and there are times I have lost control of it and the tool goes places I did not want it to. Couple that with the fact that if you pick up a TnFlow the glue forms a globule at the tip. Th...

Hey Marko - how about a write-up and pictures for the site? I'd like to figure out how to use it better, I'm sure it must have some use - but until I see and read better experience, I'll continue to do what I know. Good idea. I have currently a little project on my bench I`ll use some of the paste ...

i think your right ter... come to think of it, i bought one of the sample packs of aves ... about a year and a half ago... i dontthink i've ever even OPENED the paste. i should probably do that sometime. EDIT: *opens up paste, mixes... makes horrid mess...* ...on second thought... *pitches it to th...

Very useful - I always forget which side is what. Thanks a lot!

Has anyone here ever used those Model Master Metalizer paints? They say it's for airbrush only... just want to get the basic idea of what they do, what they look like when painted, and if they're worth anything. Thanks!! You can handbrush them, but is is not easy )as they are veeery thin) and you w...

Well, a nice sorted collection of drill bits, eventual?

800, followed by 1000. That`s it.

kylwell wrote:Some folk feel pre-shading can be more subtle,

I`m always afraid that I will completely cover the pre-shades with the main color, so I avoid that technique.

I must confess that I NEVER got till today the reason why I should preshade something. All of the effects can be done with detail painting and aft shading using pastels chalks with more control - in my opinion.

But it maybe only me...

bluesman wrote:I'm even wondering if the thing should be a light grey for scale effect.

But IMHO things become lighter when using scale effects, not darker - so a light grey should become white, but not white should become light grey.

If you`re brave enough you can use thin GLASS rods. I`m too afraid to break them when the model is done, but they are much stiffer than plexi.

Has anyone else tried anything different? I was thinking of perspex rods from the base but they will need to be 1mm diameter and 15-20cm long. Has anyone seen any that thin and are they strong enough? Perspex rods in that diameter (yes, I have some that thin) are muuuuuuuch to flexible to be used f...

I hand-painted mine in thoese areas too: First I sprayed bright white, then a gloss clear, then I painted the grey areas with acrylic colors - that way I could use simply some q-tip dipped in water to remove overpaint, and if all else fails a quick polishing with the tip of a toothpick does the trick.