Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Ant wrote: ↑Tue Sep 10, 2019 1:35 pm Conductive paint has been around for decades.

It still sucks.

Model railroad guys have used it for a long time.....but only works well in low voltage/amp detection circuits and the like. Not power supplying.

Check Plastruct online catalog. Good stuff and staff.

I am currently using decals from Indycals (auto decals) they are laser printed and IMHO they are about the same as screen printed. I do not know what printer / ink he uses but someone has a system that works very well.

Micro Mark has printer, ink and paper for around $800......lots less than the $4000 I looked at a few years ago.

Great work on one of my all time favorite designs!

It's not listed on the Plastruct site at all... Just their Bondene and Plastic Weld - both of which contain toxins. :( I will admit I tried it once and did not like it.....it irritated my nose bad. I'd give them a call....maybe it is discontinued but they have some left over in stock. Just an idea.

I'd check the Plastruct website and see if it is still made. GREAT folks to deal with direct.

I'd try dipping it in future/Pledge then allow it to hang so excess drips off.

I have been a decal manufacture for almost 40 years. I have made decals with old school screen printing, ALPS and now what I call digital hybrid. Here is MY WAY of decal application....not the only way....but works for me for many years. Start with a clean and glossy surface. Use whatever method you...

Every decal??? Sounds like defective carrier (the clear lacquer halo around the image) or improper storage. (exposed to light or humidity) As suggested test on a decal that is not vital if possible. Decal sheet can be sprayed with clear gloss to make them stronger.

Interesting process.....but results are only fair to me. I am a decal manufacture. I started making decals in the early 1960's by painting images on brown kraft tape and coating the image with a clear varnish. Later in the 1960's Car Model Magazine had a process somewhat like the one shown in the Yo...

My brother just started working for a college. They have laser cutters and 3D printers. As a benefit he's permitted to use them. Might check local schools.

When I was casting some folks did paint their molds as a mold release. Worked OK but I never tried it.

What area of the store??? Thanks

The first decals I made were back in the 1960's!! You took paper tape with the water soluble glue. (do they even make that still?) Hand paint your 'decal' on it, use a clear varnish over it...apply like a modern decal. Didn't always work if your clear wasn't strong enough and kinds crude....but all ...

To late but SOP for Krylon......Tamiya is the best primer...I use Dupli-color #1699 too.
I'd try rubbing with a old cotton shirt......it will polish some.

Thanks, guys. Dave, I hadn't thought of that. But if you're saying that if you lay down a big piece and rub down the general area and then trim out what I don't need, the excess will mar the surrounding paint, that's a good thought. I always wondered how BMF stuck since it didn't feel sticky. It is...

BMF will stick to either surface. A flat surface can mar from the excess foil if you use the trim method.

5 minute epoxy is good. Strong, easy and somewhat flexible.

Mr. Badwrench wrote: ↑Sun Oct 05, 2014 10:17 pm Are you doing this to practice casting? It isn't my intent to be snarky, it just seems a tedious and expensive way to avoid using Grandt Line rivets.

Grandt line X2 here......cheap compared to hours spent making them.

The biggest wire I can fit in. I keep 14, 16 and 22 on hand. Will buy smaller if I must.

My current bottle is the last one I'll need.....only on my 3rd since 1983!!

gsb5w wrote: ↑Thu Jan 04, 2018 5:12 pm If your project doesn't have to be very rigid then foamboard works great for making structure.

Engineered right foamcore can be very rigid. Some triangulation, good glue and bracing I've made some sturdy structures.

Poster, matt and foamcore are all good suggestions.\I do paper models too.....

1/2 inch thick plastic sheets???? Doubt you will find styrene like that. I know you can get acrylic sheets.....but cheap???? nope. If you need 1/2" for large builds I'd look at ultra grade cabinet plywood......but again a 4x8 or 5 x 10 sheet starts at $100+ There is no cheap when you go that big.

Decal is best if you can use that on what you are doing. Any graphics program can produce a pattern the EXACT size you need......print out the dark color and apply to the lighter color.

naoto wrote: ↑Mon Oct 09, 2017 9:15 am ... but is this Gorilla glue actually made from gorillas? And if so.. how long before PeTA gets involved?

People Eat Tasty Animals??? I'd think they'd be happy!!!

Superglue age hardens and becomes brittle. This is one of the reason I recommend the rubber impregnated Gorilla CA. Less brittle and less likely to pop apart. I've moved to Gorilla for a few reasons but have had no issues and use it on everything. Me too. Love the stuff and you can get it most plac...

Kylwell wrote: ↑Sun Feb 26, 2017 12:12 pm Superglue age hardens and becomes brittle. This is one of the reason I recommend the rubber impregnated Gorilla CA. Less brittle and less likely to pop apart.

I've moved to Gorilla for a few reasons but have had no issues and use it on everything.

Back in the day I used plaster of Paris in the legs. Cheap, easy and stable......never attacked the vinyl.