Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I have a 8x8 inch sheet of the stuff. It has two metal connectors attached to the edge. When power is applied it lights. But be careful as the edges can shock you pretty good! It is cut with an x-acto ot scissors etc. Mine came from a model RR supply co.

I took home some years ago when we installed optical cable in our data center and the contractor left a bunch. Very difficult to use if almost dangerous. It is so fine I could see getting it in your eye or inhaling it. I junked it and was told later that was the best thing to do. Now todays stuff mi...

The Spinner is maybe my top grail of all time. Mine are ordered. I wonder about decals?? Are they going to include BR decals or BTTF almost naked look?? If we do not get BR decals I'll make mine myself. I may pass on lighting but wait to see yours! BTW....I was in LA in May.....and around the Staple...

Plastruct had some ABS at one time....might check them.

BalsaFoam is made up the road from my house. I got some from them...used some of it....but not my best media for me. Others have done neat stuff with it. Not sure about hot wire and BalsaFoam.

Federal directive to unify labelling throughout the US rather than for individual states to have their own standards. The label I see on many products 'The state of California.....' is not a Federal label. It's another CA exemption the state feels the need to add to 'protect'..... It will be intere...

Some folks on a model car BB claim that their LHS in CA got Tamiya spray cans back in stock.....we'll see....

Application is the key with Solvaset...but I use it exclusively on all decals....Microscale, Chatagraph and my own made with decafix paper.
it's all in the process. Maybe because I started with Solvaset in my model railroad days I never have an issue.

Current Tamiya labels are fine in 49 states....just California is causing the issue. I say Tamiya move to another state and forget about regulation crazy CA......

I use Walthers Solvaset. Walthers is one of the very first hobby decal makers in the USA. (1932 IIRC) I now make all my own decals and I like Solvaset the best. Some say it's too hot but used right it's GREAT!.....only IMHO....

It's a label issue caused by a questionable California law. Combined with the MAJOR problems in Japan the last 6 months and you get big delays. I say Tamiya USA needs to move to a state without CA laws and ship the paint there.....CA will be on there own......

Micro-Weld.....it has a very fast evaporation rate but creates a very good bond. Not as hot as plastruct....and will not ooze like Testors if applied lightly.

Years ago I was 100% air brush. Now I am 99.9% Tamiya, Duplicolor and Tesors Lacquer spray can user. I still weather with my air brush....but the time and effort of the air brush is not worth it for the paint job I get from the cans I now use.

I'd check 1/8, 1/12 or 1/24 scale model car racing seat belt kits. Might find what you need there.

I'm pretty sure Plastruct has vac thermal plastic so maybe between the dome and plastic you can get enough to order?? Call them and ask...they are great folks.

Walthers sels Plastruct and they sell any quantity.

I have the NWSL chopper. It works pretty well but on thicker stock it will flex and not give an exact 90 degree cut. It is well made and handy to have.

Fantastic work....I'll wait on the toy!

I don't see any pics??????

Balsa foam is manufactured near my house...but they don't like dealing direct. I have gotten some from them but they are a bit hard to work with. (foam is great)

Another couple of other factors to consider regarding speed are material thickness/type and laser power

Very true....I was talking only about my 25 watt machine. Those with bigger beds and high wattage often have a higher price as they can do things lower watt machines can't.

Ahhhh. And what kind of time does it take to cut each shape out? The only real way is to run a test....no laser power but run the program. The Laser machine will then give you a time. My machine has 3 settings with 255 steps in each setting....so you can not get an estimate without a test run. Stra...

Not sure what the going commercial rate today is....a few years ago it was $1 a minute. Should be about that today....plus material. I work on a per project estimates.

I have a 25 watt 12x18 laser machine.
http://www.frontiernet.net/~currtail/HOTDOG00.JPG

However you say it.....it's short for Decalcomania, a process invented in England. I say DE-CAL because since I built my first model almost 50 years ago that's what it was called. But the folks in the UK invented it.....so.....

Been talked about a lot here......temp out of stock due to new can labels needed. Tamiya say april ETA they hope. Get some Dupli-color until then.

Dupli-color makes a white, 2 grays, black and brown/red primers. I keep all on hand and the filler primer too. The light gray is the closest to Tamiya. Most auto parts stores and big box stores have them.

I 'glue' my photo-etch hood pins, window clips and emblems with Future (now called Pledge) floor shine. Never harms or mars the paint or etch. If the etch is under any stress then I have to use epoxy. Good luck!

I have about every color on hand right now...multiples of many. (3 hours to the hobby shop!) I have never noticed the color/cap issue. No molded plastic is going to be the exact same as the paint....but Tamiya caps are a lot closer than anyone else s. I stopped using my air brush about 15 years ago ...

I use bleach...cheap and works too.

Moebious models plastic and the mold release they use seems 'different'.....not bad...but different. Almost every kit I have from Moebious has a very slick surface from both the release and the way they polish the molds. A good cleaning and primer will go a long way in getting paint adhesion. Tamiya...