Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

TER-OR wrote:If that's the case, skip the Revolution and go straight to the Eclipse.

I will second the recommedation of the Eclipse. It's a wonderful brush, even for a 'less-than-pro'. Alot of people worry about double-action as a first brush, but it's well worth the effort.

Hmmmm, what ammonia product do you use? And what chemical does the windshield washer fluid provide?

Is Isopropyl safe for rinsing/cleaning my AB? I'm slightly worried that the Iso will dryout/damage my Iwatas seals.

Kylwell wrote:Same thing you use to clean your A/B after spraying acrylic paints. I use Testors acrylic matte coat to flatten out Future.

I use Tamiya thinner and Isopropyl alcohol for cleaning the AB.

Is that Testors acrylic matte coat from a can or do you AB it?

Two questions.... if I airbrush future, what do I use to clean it all out of my airbrush? Second, after I apply the Future, what can I use as a dull-coat? I know that, for instance, Testors Dullcoat cannot be applied over acrylic paint. But after I've applied my future it will require something to f...

Well, thanks. Hmmm. Doesn't seem like there'd be much choice in engine paint colors. I'll check out the forum you suggested tho'.

I'm planning on painting a Glass filled/Nylon rifle stock and want to ask if anyones done this before. Thinking about going with a Camo green as opposed to straight black. Would it be advisable to prime it first? What's the best/most durable flatcoat? What about lube/ gun oil reactivity with the pai...

...as in, what kind of foam? Sources? Hot wire or carving knife? Workability? And what kind of filler/surfacer/putty can/do you coat it with?

I have no clue what the kit is, so let me just add this (and I hope it helps): If it's 1/72 (or close) and star wars-- I'l buy it. MTFBWY Jammies Gracias, Mi Amigo! Stay tuned. Other projects have reared their big ugly heads. "Cool! A 1:72ish XP93 Widget P-Model! Yay! I've wanted one for years...

well, I don't use too much in the way of laquers or enamels, so it's mostly acrylic for me. No hobby lobby around here, but I do have a credit at a local train store who'll order just about anything I want. For Christmas and Birthday I just told everone to buy me a gift certificate at the train store!

Kylwell wrote:Don't
Buy
A
Paasche

Yes, they cost a bit more but with an Iwata you spend more time painting than cleaning.

Why? Other than cleaning, that is? Which Iwata would you recommend?

Thanks, all. I'm leaning towards Paasche, but we'll see. I, too, mainly use Tamiya Acrylic but will use what's available, when I have to. I've been able to go on company websites and find all kinds of details about particular AB's but haven't found much in regards to what is acceptable pressure. At ...

The subject says it all. I have a cheap, low pressure compressor (20-30psi) and I'm looking for a good airbrush that will work well with low pressure. Keep it simple and use small words because I don't know a lot 'bout airbrushes. I've been making do with Harbor Frieght airbrushes, but I have just e...

Obfuscation aside, let's see: Try to find the source of the reference you used for size, and their reasoning. Sometimes they'll make a compelling argument. About the orthos, who did them? Are they (the orthos) accurate? The 'other' sources you compared the design you're working with, are they Sci-f...

I understand. Another part of this is that if I 'eyeball' it to what looks right, some buyers may be turned off due to the fact it's not 'scale-to-the-references'. Hard to advertise it as 1:72nd scale, when I've 'fudged it'.

It might help if we knew what it was - maybe one of us has definitive info. I didn't want to press the issue, but yeah, it's hard to give a good opinion without knowing. You're the one who asked, after all. :D I would at least say that as long as you make sure you have the right number of rivets yo...

Is there anything that you can compare it against - even a 1/72nd scale figure? It might help if we knew what it was - maybe one of us has definitive info. ....but, it looks to be 1:48-1:60ish, if I compare it to other, known, 1:72nd models and figures. Well, it's a rather obscure vehicle, so there...

Well, at this point, it is a secret. It will (I hope) be cast for sale, so it's liable to come under some scrutiny.

Rogviler wrote:Is it a real design, like a plane, or is it something made-up, like a space ship? That can be a big factor, I've found...

-Rog

Spacecraft.

I'll second that you should try a plastic supply house first; I work in a sign shop and we do have 4'x8' sheets of styrene, however.... it's only one thickness (.040), and we'd charge you a frakkin' arm and a leg for it!!!

I'm working on a project and the resource material I find online and in a source book gives me a length of 5" (thank you Scale Converter!). I scale up some found 3d orthos to 5" and.... it just doesn't look right. :? It's scaled to 1:72nd (using my resources) but, it looks to be 1:48-1:60i...

Arklan wrote:ya know... i'm really curious what the other 211 banes of butters exsistence are... but VERY afraid to ask.

Number 37 is pulblic restroom toiletpaper dispensers that release one. square. of. paper. at. a. time.

The alcohol hasn't made a big difference. But, Ti, remeber that I have Aves paste, not the Putty, and there lies the bane of my existance. Actually bane number 212 to be exact. An update, actually the alcohol has made a difference. When mixed, now, it's totally mixable. I have some, spread thin on ...

The alcohol hasn't made a big difference. But, Ti, remeber that I have Aves paste, not the Putty, and there lies the bane of my existance. Actually bane number 212 to be exact.

Plastic punji stake. Gotcha.

I've actually never managed to get MicroMask to work. Well...I should say that. It seems to mask thing wonderfully. I've just never been able to get the crap off the model. A kneadable erasure might help but I've never gotten it to work either. Hmmm... a needible Eraser; had'nt thought of that, but...

Sorry. In my frustration I became incoherant! I meant MicroMask. I've applied it, cut along the edge carefully, but cannot remove it.

I've applied my MicroMask film, over painted, and now I cannot get the decal film to come off! It's only come off in a few areas, has peeled up some of the paint but mostly refuses to come off at all! I've use the tip of my blade (scratched the paint) a toothpick (scuffed the paint) some tape (ineff...

Oh, it's not really diluted. It's still quite taffy-like when mixed and both parts, A & B are still quite firm. I'll try the alcohol, tho'.

Hmmmm. What if I've already thinned it up some by adding water to both jars? Will the alcohol still work?