Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Just like styrene, score and snap. Or score all the way through. A plexiglas cutter blade works well. Where would I find such a thing as a plexiglas cutter blade, and how expensive are they? Upon doing some test-fitting last night, I might wind up using styrene after all. However, I also have acces...

One of my ridiculous projects is accurizing a 1/48th or so Delta-7 Jedi Starfighter (the one Obi-Wan used in AtoC) — it was originally part of some sort of handheld game with a handgrip attached to the bottom, which I sawed way and discarded probably 12 years ago. I've recently picked this thing up ...

Polyurethane glue, baby. But beware of urethane finish and exposure to UV from the sun. It will last a few years, but eventually will peel like a ginger's skin. It's too late for polyurethane glue. That ship has sailed. However, the polyurethane coating is just a start. Following that (at least thr...

I'd go Gorilla or Titebond (II or III). Any of those are waterproof, although I would still take great pains to seal the edges with caulk before painting. I went with Titebond II. I glued the first set yesterday before I left work. As they were (predictably) somewhat bowed, I glued them and then cl...

Why are you using two 1/4" sheets instead of one 1/2" sheet? Seems like creating work for no reason. If I remember the previous discussion, it needs to be bent into a curve, which is easier with two thinner pieces. Close … not bent, but cut into an arc shape on one edge. The reason for us...

I have a need to bond two sheets of quarter-inch plywood together in a way that will allow them to be permanently installed outdoors in the open air (but sheltered from rain) in the Florida humidity. I intend to apply several coats of polyurethane to the wood to help protect them, and seal any voids...

Foamcore is likely to be problematic. The combination of heat and humidity will likely cause the face-sheets to blister and over time the paper face sheets will likely mould or mildew, even if painted. There's just no way to keep it from soaking up the moisture. They'll last quite a while -- a coup...

Most of the suggestions above would be perfect except that they're way out of my price range.

Qapla'

SSB

USSARCADIA wrote:Try the local area listings for "plastic suppliers"

As I noted in my first post, there are none locally. That's the sticking point on using styrene because shipping appears to be very expensive.


Qapla'

SSB

I've designed new signs for my department at work, based on an idea I showed hereabouts a few weeks ago. Here's the "design brief" — briefly. These will be exterior signs, 38 inches wide. They will be assembled in three pieces — a top and bottom with a straight side and a curved side, with...

By the way ... I finally decided to do styrene squares. It was still a challenge to cut about 40 squares all the same size and figure out how to space them evenly around the frame while having a square on each corner. But I did it, and it was a big hit. Took me three tries to find a blue spray paint...

Well, now I'm confused …

Qapla'

SSB

I really like your mock up. I'm almost thinking that you wouldn't need the tapered effect around the edges and possibly continuing the rounded edges on the left and right sides as well. Just an overall flat thickness with the recessed lines and text. Thanks! Well, my original plan was to use only s...

Is this a picture of the font you're talking about? http://yourfirstvisit.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Test-Track-at-Epcot.jpg Yes, that's it. Below, see a link to a more useful promo image I found that is the basis for my efforts. First, here's an image of the sign I saw that is my model for the...

Working on a way to get some photos online -- don't want to use my regular Flickr account for this sort of thing. A little background: The department has an official seal, and it gets used a lot on posters, signs, certificates, you name it. But it is a bit formal, and I had been thinking that in add...

Guys, Some of you may recall that I'm the graphic designer for a university physics department. In my efforts to "plus" the designs of things people actually see daily, I've decided I want to spruce up the signage in and around the three buildings that make up the core of our department. I...

For Mothers Day I got a 36x24 print of The Pandorica Opens , the faux Van Gogh painting first seen in the Doctor Who episode of the same name. I've bought a frame for it, but I was thinking that it would be nice to glue some discs around the frame to echo the roundels inside the TARDIS — the frame w...

Okay. I do have foil over the top and I'll try to just wrap the tube with duct tape.

Qapla'

SSB

I have a large tube of this red Bondo putty that has developed a hole in the tube and recently lost its cap. While I know the stuff isn't particularly expensive, I'd rather not just throw it out if possible. Does anyone know if it could be cut open and possibly transferred to another container of so...

FWIW, I print white backing decals with Alps all the time for some of my customers who use high-quality inkjet decals for the colors. Works very well. Okay, I'll send you a PM later about pricing. I don't have the artwork completed quite yet, but it won't take too long. Depending on the complexity ...

I've been working for a while on accurizing a trio of Lightning McQueen (from Disney/Pixar's Cars films) toys, to make something I might call models out of them. They're three different toys in three different scales, roughly 1:18, 1:24, and 1:48ish. Concurrently with the physical work, I've been co...

Thank you. I see you speak KLINGON! I am also building the 1/350 scale refit. WHOABOY!! I have been letting Bessie simmer for a few weeks. Do you know about the www.carsthetoys.com web site? If not, Go to RAMONE'S HOUSE OF BODY ART and look for the Bessie Building Thread. Please join the CARS web s...

Would really like to see more as things progress -- I'm trying to accurize some Lightning McQueen toys (and possibly others, depending on how successful I am with the ones I have). I love Cars and don't really understand why some do not, although I know that nothing appeals to everyone, of course. A...

I guess I will after I get my airbrush back out of storage. I'm not at all sure how it will work — none of the references I turned up so far had specifically to do with model building. One guy was trying to paint a guitar. I use lacquer thinner, but spray enamels in most cases. It may be the reason ...

No one? So I'm going to have to be the pioneer?

Great. I was hoping to avoid that. Pioneers typically make horrible mistakes from which others learn!

Oh, well …

Qapla'

SSB

My little boy recently decided that an area of the bedroom carpet would look better after some of his mother's nail polish was generously applied. After I advised my wife that the proper place for such things is somewhere a three-year-old cannot reach (or see, preferably), I started investigating wh...

Okay, that's pretty much what I expected. Thanks!

Qapla'

SSB

Dumb question time, boys and girls! So, yeah — wondering if you could thin acrylic craft paint using Future, thereby possibly gaining some measure of Future's self-leveling qualities to help eliminate brush strokes. Obviously, I'm not talking about thinning for airbrushing. Not even really concerned...

I was at AutoZone a couple of weeks ago and saw that the 3M/Scotch line they carry (of the smaller 3.75" x 9" sheets or whatever they are) now includes a 3000 grit. I think that for most modeling purposes, a rag made from an old T-shirt would work for polishing needs beyond that, unless yo...

Clear styrene goo (in MEK or whatever) might work, but it has to be very thin; you don't want the MEK softening the underlying styrene or taking too long to dry. That is the truth; a few years ago I was working on my Hasbro A-wing and got the bright idea to fill a hole left by a removed screw with ...