Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

The nice thing about a spork (not a Spock) is the nice round beetle shape (carapace) with the small teeth in one end giving you a basic body with 'windows' or 'gun ports' in one end. Use two, for top and bottom, or use one spork and a similar spoon for a different look. Of course you need to modify ...

Maybe you could use the 'wands' that are used with ShopVacs? Gluable, and come in ribbed and non-ribbed types... longitudinal ribs that is. They're sorta 1 inch in diameter.

You can get the wand segments
separately at some D.I.Y. Home Depot type stores.

If you solder all connections, and embed any active circuitry in silicon seal / bathtub caulk you probably won't have any trouble, unless you submerge the whole model in the bathtub to do your wet sanding. I haven't had any problem with electronics and wet sanding, in the last half century or so. If...

If you solder all connections, and embed any active circuitry in silicon seal / bathtub caulk you probably won't have any trouble, unless you submerge the whole model in the bathtub to do your wet sanding. I haven't had any problem with electronics and wet sanding, in the last half century or so. If...

If HAL doesn't have to be 'free standing' like just hung on a wall, you could use a "wall wart" or power supply that plugs into a wall outlet. Check out the "power sources" thread.

HTH

AH HA! Teeeny little life preservers for my Titanic model!


Also real darn handy for soldering! Thanks.

You can get by with as little as an LED and a "watch battery". That's all that is in some teeeny flashlights, anyway. Just make sure that the LED needs a bit more voltage than the battery can deliver, for long LED life. F'r instance, if you are using a BLUE or WHITE LED, they need about 3....

Went to OfficeMax.

Printed on clear film.

COOL!

Printed on quality white paper.

Laminated same.

WOO HOO!

THANKS!

Bumpity bump...


Boy, isn't anyone scratching out there? I know it isn't tick or flea season, but...

bump.... ow...

bump

bump

I'd advise against using PVC pipe - at least the normal 'house plumbing' type. I was involved in a model build for a film and the guy in charge used PVC for the long, self supporting main spine with the mount in the middle of the 5 foot 2 inch long beast. Quickly, it began to sag. By the time it was...

May I suggest the 'Got resin' announcement thread. Lots of good inflammation there.

You might try the old standby - the 4060 chip - with the 500K variable resistor. One output can handle 4 low voltage LEDs in SERIES (under 2 volts each, usually RED, ORANGE, YELLOW or GREEN ones).

What colors of LED were you planning on using?

If you contact either a wholesale dealer or sign shop, you might ask for "drop stock" which (in the US) means the ends and bits nibbled off full sheets when they custom cut an order to size.

I love 'leftovers'....

What he said. Listen to the Voice of Experience!

I plan to!

Hi, Sprugrue! Welcome to the madness.

Check on the main site for a bunch of 'how to' articles: http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/techmain.htm

and: http://www.starshipmodeler.com/site.htm

MODEL ON!

To install a red laser beam in something, just 'gut' a cheap laser pointer. I see them around for $3.00 US - cheap! Just buy one, take it apart, and see how the LASER crystal is mounted - one laser pointer/gooseneck LED light I dismantled has the crystal mounted on a small PCB that slips into groove...

COOL!

Great idea, Chacal!

Cleaning and 'scufing' in one operation.

Cool!

Ah. So the inside of the nozzle is wider at the base, near where it connects to the model. Hm.... You might have to 'cheat' the inside of the cone so the RTV can slip off the nozzle 'backward' - thicker walls of the nozzle at the base where it connects to the model. At least that way you can have bu...

Um...O.K. Is this a nozzle like the standard injection molded ones? If so, couldn't you attach the flat base, the part that attached to the model, onto a flat sheet of plastic, and then surround the whole thing with a wall or cylindar making a cup with the nozzle sticking up in the middle - pour in ...

Um, Lichtbringer? Aves isn't just a two part putty, it's the trade name for a specific product made here in the U.S. Right down the road, here in Wisconsin, I believe. (Road Trip!)

I've tried generic two part epoxy and hate it.

Aves, on the other paw, is wonderful.

just F.Y.I.

Tanks, Frank! I have a number of projects that need boarding.

YEEE-HA! Eagle has a MAC VERSION!

YAYAYAYAYAY!

Thanks Frank!

YAYAYAYAYAY! :D :D :twisted: :D Sometimes you don't ask 'why' you just be glad the (deleted) thing works! There should be at least one resistor in there somewhere. That's the timing resistor. If you use a 500K ohm (500,000 ohm) variable resistor in there rather than a fixed value one, you can change...

I think I’ve been ordering Jameco's part # 13151. It's been a while. Look for a description that says something like "14 stage binary ripple counter and clock" just to make durn sure. I’ve been using Motorola and National chips with no problems. I've heard rumors that Fairchild chips aren'...

AH HA! Killer soldering irons! I'm very glad I haven't run into that problem! I'd say using a socket would definitely save that situation. Thanks Don & Sparky for more information.

The multiple strobing effect is what I used in my CPD Power Armor suit, using the 4060 - that's 4 LEDs, two at a time. Plus the 'eye' LED. I looked at the UK site you mentioned DL, and find a few things I disagree with. Like "The 4060B can only supply a few mA, just enough to light a single LED...