Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Looking at the white sheet styrene on hand I think the .005 inch thick, which is paper thin, would work okay. Gluing it in place will be a bit of an adventure since liquid cements will melt it before they glue it. EDIT: yeah, that works, with then without, https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/5197071...

I've seen people suggest exposing a decal sheet to sunlight will whiten it back up. And now you'll see someone outright declaring they have done that with success. Spring and summer where condensation on window is less of a factor are a great time to do so. If available an upper floor window which ...

There was a 4 door Toyota Corolla my parents had in 1970s which appeared more greenish or brownish as lighting varied.
A fascinating hue.
Want to say the original intent seemed to have been looking to be brown-ish.

I was thinking of using an olive drab colour. Found this, where the thought is similar, http://www.starshipmodeler.com/other/gb_drop.htm Color: The model is a forest green when it comes out of the box. If you want to make it more accurate, I would suggest a olive-drab paint scheme. This is the same...

sbaxter wrote: ↑Thu Feb 10, 2022 11:11 am given it plenty of time to cure, which included about 12 hours in my dehydrator at 115 degrees.

I have occasionally pondered getting one of those.
Any deep dark obscure and arcane secrets I should know about them?

sbaxter wrote: ↑Wed Feb 09, 2022 2:35 pm-- if I do and I mess up a bit (and I certainly will), will a cotton swab and water let me clean up my mess, or will I have to use alcohol instead of water?

You are on a very short time limit for water being useful there, normally less than a minute.
Plan on having a half a minute window.

I'm concerned alcohol might mar the base coat. Is there a difference in this regard between the 70ish percent IPA and the 91 percent? No meaningful difference in what each percentage does in my experience using Tamiya's Acrylics since mid 1980s. --> If that base coat is also the acrylic it will van...

jpolacchi wrote: ↑Wed Jan 12, 2022 7:49 pmI'm not sure how that would be disclosed as far as ground shipping went. It have to be labeled "flammable" or something?

Yep ...

The contents must be disclosed to be mailable.

https://pe.usps.com/text/pub52/pub52c2_007.htm

The Tamiya product code number you need is 87137 and is on their website... https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/cements/kit870S02.htm Hmm, interesting, the web wasn't offering me that page 2 and the option of going back or forward at the time I was looking. Oh well, it is not odd for there...

overseas availability, but Tamiya makes a nice ABS glue: Just now looked at 5 different places I've ordered hobby supplies from here in US and none listed it though several had other Tamiya cements. It is also turns out to be not listed on the Japan website's English language page for cements, http...

Here are references from 2 outfits who are in the ABS retailing and gluing business,

https://www.plastiblocks.com/post/2018/ ... gluing-abs

https://plastruct.myshopify.com/pages/t ... sds-sheets

My experience with ABS is mostly with Plastruct's raw materials and a few recent plastic model kits which were molded in ABS instead of Polystyrene. ABS glues better with a different liquid cement than typical styrene does. Beyond that ABS accepts common model building paints and putties just fine. ...

Highlighted panel lines really only became common on models about 20 years ago. Now it seems nobody can build a model without pre-shading and then washes. ... and ends up with panel lines that would be about 4 inch wide bands on a real aircraft. And there's how model building is like psychiatry in ...

An alternative would be Duplicolor filler primer. Just keep in mind that they will both start to fill in details if used heavily. That turned out to be not as 'filling' as initially expected/feared, which to me is a good thing. It is my go-to primer for a lot of spray painting jobs. Pretty smelly, ...

Those are interesting. Definitely a thing modelers will find applications for.
In YT comments several people have talked about effects for miniatures games and other gameboards.

PollyScale from 1990s; know of at least 2, a metallic green bought just for for the aft half of a Monogram 1/48 F-15 cockpit, & an Italian Hazel tan I like for a basic Caucasian skin tone, even used it last week on a couple guys to put in an Airfix 1/72 Grumman Widgeon/Gosling. Uncertain exactly...

I presume that if I can keep the compressor indoors, in the AC, it should help reduce the moisture, yes? Seems obvious, but you never know, nor do I know whether it would help enough to make such a contrived setup (running the air line out a window, asking those inside to put up with the noise when...

I'm having trouble coming up with what it means to seal photo etch since metal does not need sealing as does wood.

As a general rule decals adhere better to paint than to bare materials; is that what you are meaning?

Andrew Gorman wrote: ↑Thu Jun 03, 2021 8:02 pmand has a good tutorial on LEDs that might be of interest here at:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvcITqw5iDY

Hey, cool, thanks!

Reading this again a few hours later I'm now not sure I meant what I thought I meant.
Eh, never mind, I don't feel good today and my brain is muddy.

ulvdemon wrote: ↑Thu Apr 22, 2021 10:07 amHas anyone used the primer for the build as basecoat?

That's pretty much my standard practice, be it spacecraft, trains, tanks, boats, buildings, wargame minis, model rocketry.

seam-filler wrote: ↑Thu Apr 22, 2021 5:06 amNot a new idea. Letraset used to (and may still) do the Letrajet which was a single-action airbrush attachment for their ProMarker pen range.

I used Letraset stuff a lot in early 1980s but was not aware of that then and have only rarely used anything Letraset since.

Say what, there's an airbrush fitting to hold and draw paint from a marker

I also thought it was an attempt to get the "plated ship" look That brings to mind one time in 1980s watching Dad's ship return from deployment & there were five, yes, count 'em, 5, discernably different hues and sheens of grey on the ship's hull & this was was just a little old G...

That would be a good question, A smooth object has no scale so it’s important in model work to find ways of creating scale. I don't know that my brain deduces that from it, You may not be aware of if but your brain does. In real life just think how much more difficult it is to accurately judge dist...

Remembering an electroluminescent product from several years ago, I think named 'Lightsheet', I played in Google and found ... While it may not be the perfect specimen for the project it definitely is the right type of thing. https://www.adafruit.com/product/414 Electroluminescent (EL) Panel - 20cm ...

That would be a good question, A smooth object has no scale so it’s important in model work to find ways of creating scale. I don't know that my brain deduces that from it, panels providing a series of interlocking edges in order to reinforce the ship's surface tensile strength. And that would be on...

Bouncing around my brain since sometime late 1980s to mid 1990s, Take one of those Testors manta ray looking UFO kits, they offered both intact and crashed versions, and ... ... cut open what seems to be the cabin door, pose one of the seated little grey crew figures as collapsed while exiting the d...

Have you searched model railroad forums? That answer is readily available in that environment as far back at least as 2015.

Does someone know for sure? I don't know much of anything for sure any more. But ... I will expect that the thing may be a case describable by this title of a 2017 book by a linguist, "Words on the Move: Why English Won't - and Can't - Sit Still (Like, Literally)" Language is always chang...